Camshaft sensor different? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Camshaft sensor different?

glued2it

Active Member
Joined
December 12, 2006
Messages
99
Reaction score
0
City, State
Tulsa OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 xlt
while doing my engine swap It appears I overlooked plugging in the camshaft position sensor when I installed the wire harness.

When I went to plug it in, It has a different plug on it even though the pins look the same.

On my old engine the camshaft position sensor plug was horizontal and faced torwards the rear of the truck.

The one on the replacement it is vertical.

Unfortunately I didn't notice it till I had everything installed and was double checking everything before I attempted to start it.

What do I do now?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Can I just rewire the plug or will I have to replace the part?

If so, how will I know what to look for?
 






After reading this I guess the engine is a 95 and I'll just have to swap the plug.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151705

I don't guess I could pull tthe top off one sensor and put it o the other?

UPDATE;

I did do a part number check at O'Reilys web site and all the part numbers matched.

Swaping the part looks complicated.
 






dude I talked to you about this exact issue in two different threads while you were doing your swap, you need to take notes or pay better attention! Now you are in for headaches!! Changing the cam sensor /body with the engine in the truck, upper intake installed, and all plumbing wiring in place is a PITA!!!!!!!!!

Your old sensor had how many wires? 2 or 3?

Your new sensor has how many wires? 2 or 3

I can help you wire the current sensor IN YOUR ENGINE to your old computer, it will work, they send the same signal......
 






dude I talked to you about this exact issue in two different threads while you were doing your swap, you need to take notes or pay better attention! Now you are in for headaches!! Changing the cam sensor /body with the engine in the truck, upper intake installed, and all plumbing wiring in place is a PITA!!!!!!!!!

Your old sensor had how many wires? 2 or 3?

Your new sensor has how many wires? 2 or 3

I can help you wire the current sensor IN YOUR ENGINE to your old computer, it will work, they send the same signal......

I couldn't find any threads where we discussed this issue.:salute:

The original replacement engine was out of a 96(cracked block) and since the pin out on 95 is the same like I mentioned earlier It was easily over looked.
It wasn't till today when I read your thread that I established it was a 95 block.

The 95&96 both have 3 pins.

I have done evey bit of work of myself with a bad hip.
The only help I have had is the forum (mostly your responses).

I am not a mechanic and this is my first shot of engine swap.
So if this is the only major burp I'm going to have, than that's pretty good.

IMHO There has been a lot to keep up with and I've done pretty well so far.
 






yes you have!!

if they are both 3 wires its SIMPLE what you need is the other style wiring plug, thats all

get the 95 style plug for the cam sensor, wire it to your trucks wiring harness and plug it in, thats it, very simple

3 wires = same exact sensor, just a different wiring plug
 






yes you have!!

if they are both 3 wires its SIMPLE what you need is the other style wiring plug, thats all

get the 95 style plug for the cam sensor, wire it to your trucks wiring harness and plug it in, thats it, very simple

3 wires = same exact sensor, just a different wiring plug

Yea, That's what I figured.

All I have to do is find one now.

I called some yards today and some them won't sell it or they don't have it.:mad:

I guess I'll try some more of them tomorrow.
 






You need the clip from a 95?

if you can get access back there you can remove the 95 sensor from the cam sensor shaft and body and screw on the 96 sensor = plug it in

access = pita though
 






You need the clip from a 95?

if you can get access back there you can remove the 95 sensor from the cam sensor shaft and body and screw on the 96 sensor = plug it in

access = pita though

Come to find out there is a new pull a part salvage by my house.

I went there this morning and found one in a 94.

Right now when I try to start it, it tries but doesn't start kinda like a galloping sound.
 






check for fuel pressure and spark
 






I checked fuel pressure first thing. I just went and got new plugs and I'll throw them in after I eat some lunch.
I should have already done that but I'd figure I'd give it try anyway.
 






I'm still not having any luck.

It just sputters like only a few cylinders are firing or something.

I checked for spark on all the wires and have no idea why it won't start.
 






I know you checked but you didnt tell

What is the fuel pressure at the rail with the key on and pump primed?
How old is the fuel?

did all 6 cylinders have spark?

Check for 12V+ at a red wire at one of your sensors, meaning with the key ON check the red wire at an injector and verify it has 12V+, this tells you if the computer is powering up your sensors, relays, injectors, etc

Check your grounds, have made that mistake before!

I assume it cranks and cranks and never fires
if that is the case a simple check for a fuel issue is to spray some carb cleaner in the intake and see if it fires, sputters and dies, if so then its likely a fuel issue
 






I know you checked but you didnt tell

wha' is the fuel pressure at the rail with the key on and pump primed?
How old is the fuel?

did all 6 cylinders have spark?

Check for 12V+ at a red wire at one of your sensors, meaning with the key ON check the red wire at an injector and verify it has 12V+, this tells you if the computer is powering up your sensors, relays, injectors, etc

Check your grounds, have made that mistake before!

I assume it cranks and cranks and never fires
if that is the case a simple check for a fuel issue is to spray some carb cleaner in the intake and see if it fires, sputters and dies, if so then its likely a fuel issue

Actually the ground strap before was the vroom vroom with the cracked block.

the fuel is new since I pumped out all the old fuel into the lincoln

Anywho It will fire right up with some ether.

Could the injectors be clogged or gummed?
 






do you have power at your sensors? computer?
Spark at all 6?

You never answer all my questions

There are a few grounds when swapping vroom vrooms the one from firewall to block, the one near the oil filter, this is the main battery to drivetrain ground, the computer wiring harness grounds near the battery and the battery to the radiator support (body)
 






Yes all the test I did were good.

After a few more tries it tried more and more to start.

Eventully it finally started. I guess it just had some cobb webbs.

It still runs a little off but I made a lap arounf the block.

I'll let it run awhile and see how it goes.

I pulled the fuel rail of the original one in case that was the issue.

I'll try to run some gumout through it to see f that improves.
 






sweet, is it running smooth? no check engine light?
 






If I reset it there won't be a check engine light till it dies.

It still chugs a bit. I took it out today on the highway and it seemed to run good except when stoped. Every now and then the rpm's would drop.

I figure I should go put some more gas in it and maybe some gumout or b12.
 






drop or die?

idle fluctuation is normal when the computer is learning the first few drive cycles, but the idle should actually be high, not low
I would check my intake for air leaks, check plug wires, etc just look it all over a bit more
It could be bad gas, a dirty MAS, a clogged cat converter, water in teh exhaust, etc it can take a bit for them to clear up, BUT I would like to see a baby butt smooth idle and the exhaust smoke clear up QUICKLY

So the CEL comes on when it dies, meaning if you dont keep your foot in it, it will die?

better give everything a look see some more, check the oil, make sure the alternator is charging, the exhaust is clear, etc

it should clear up quickly, if not there may be a problem

If it keep up, pull the spark plugs and have a look, it could be flooded, they could be covered in dirty gas/oil/etc from cranking over a used engine...
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





just droped the only time it died while driving was at a stop light.

when I first started it up this morning it would idle up from time to time.

It ran a good 15min before it finally died.I only had to keep my foot on it for a min. or so.

yesterday when trying to start it it would run for just a sec. before it died.
it would run a few more seconds before it died.
then it finally stayed running.

I let it idle for about 30min. last night before shutting it off.

I'm not seeing any smoke out of the pipes.

Also when trying to start it yesterday I pulled the lugs and one had well... a booger on it. It was small and gummy.
Just the one plug.

I pulled the intake to solder the the wires and made sure it had a good seal when I replaced it.

I guess I didn't get one of the ends of the y pipe on right because there is a little bit of leak.
 






Back
Top