Clearing a CEL without using scanner or battery disconnect

[vze4b39s]

I've got a 98 Explorer Sport and it has the classic P1740 with the O/D light flashing. I know its a problem with the torque converter or the solenoid.

I have a scanner that can clear the codes, but the problem is I need to get my yearly inspection and its that time of the year again. Previously, I can clear the code and then drive a total of 70 miles over a few days and hope like heck the CEL doesn't come back on before I take the vehicle to get inspected. (Something to do with the number of drive cycles).

My question is if the CEL does come back on, is there some kind of sequence I can perform to clear this without using the scanner or disconnecting the battery? This would help save me from driving 70 miles or whatever it is to get to the correct number of drive cycles.

I'm hoping there is something like "do this first....then drive X mph....press brake to stop.....etc"

 

[imp]

Messin' With "The Man"

If you really wanna be dorky, disconnect the CEL lamp, and hope the inspection does not involve key "on" lamp proveout. imp

 

[1992fordgreen]

If you really wanna be dorky, disconnect the CEL lamp, and hope the inspection does not involve key "on" lamp proveout. imp

Most legit emission inspections will not let this pass.

 

[jremington59]

The only way I know to clear it is to fix the problem and drive until the cycle clears the light. Even if the inspector doesn't check the light it will show when he hooks it to the computer. In some states you're allowed up to two banks not being fully loaded and it will pass. Best thing is to clear it and hope it doesn't kick again before the banks load.

 

[imp]

Most legit emission inspections will not let this pass.

This is true, of course! My facetiousness got by you....BTW, are there non-legit emission inspections? imp

 

[koda2000]

This is true, of course! My facetiousness got by you....BTW, are there non-legit emission inspections? imp

of course there are, but they generally don't advertise in the Yellow Pages and suggesting a bribe to a legit inspector (which most are) will probably not be well received... lol

 

[jremington59]

I forgot about this one. I got it from a Ford tech a few years back. If I recall it needs to be done twice with a cold engine to start.

I know this is an old thread, but here's the drive cycle you use to quick cycle the computer for inspection.

NYS DMV - (Brochure) DRIVE NY CLEAN
1. The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122
degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of
each other).
2. The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start - otherwise the heated
oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
3. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and one-half
minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost turned on, if
equipped.
4. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under
moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for
three minutes.
5. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the
clutch for manual transmissions).
6. Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
7. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate
(coast down) to a stop without braking.

If you're unable to do all of these steps, doing steps 1 through 5 from a cold start will accomplish the same thing.