Cranks but won't start-2000 Explorer

[U7362]

Cranks but won't start-2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHV - 230,000 mi Engine replaced at 200,000 mi
1. Replaced fuel filter
2.Checked fuel Pressure. It is at 60+ PSI
3. It rune when I use Starting Fluid or put gas on the air filter
4. It stopped at work so I can't do much like pulling the upper manifold off.
5. Prior to dying I could leave it for a period of time and then it would start up fine until I turned it off.(that is sometimes it would start again, other times I had to let it set for a day or two).
6. Check Engine and ABS lights are on, but I can't move it to get the codes checked.
7. I have read something about the Fuel damper or fuel pressure sending unit but I can't pull the upper manifold, and besides I am getting 64-64 PSI at the rail and I have reset the computer by removing the battery for a day ( just to put it into LIMP mode in case it had a bad code-same symptoms).
8. if the injectors are shot, then all of them went at once, which is highly unlikely.
9. I have also charged the battery and tried jumping it. It cranks good and fast-No battery/starter problems.

All I can think of right now is wondering if I can check the PCM to see if I am getting an injector pulse from it. Is there anyone that cam offer any suggestions?

- Stranded--

 

[2000StreetRod]

CKP sensor?

The PCM enables the fuel pump for a couple seconds when switching the ignition from Off to Run and continuously when it detects the crankshaft rotating via the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor. Try cycling the ignition switch a few times between off and run before cranking the starter. If the engine starts and then quickly dies then it may be due to a nonfunctional CKP sensor. You might try cleaning the CKP sensor connector contacts by disconnecting /reconnecting the connector a few times.

On my 2000 the PCM disables the fuel injectors when an unrecognized key is used in the ignition. Does the THEFT indicator rapidly flash when the starter is cranked? Have you tried using a different ignition key?

 

[U7362]

Good point

The PCM enables the fuel pump for a couple seconds when switching the ignition from Off to Run and continuously when it detects the crankshaft rotating via the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor. Try cycling the ignition switch a few times between off and run before cranking the starter. If the engine starts and then quickly dies then it may be due to a nonfunctional CKP sensor. You might try cleaning the CKP sensor connector contacts by disconnecting /reconnecting the connector a few times.

On my 2000 the PCM disables the fuel injectors when an unrecognized key is used in the ignition. Does the THEFT indicator rapidly flash when the starter is cranked? Have you tried using a different ignition key?

 

[U7362]

Good point. I have switched the ignition on/off several times and it might have lost programming for the key I was using. I'll check the theft light this afternoon. Thanks for the help

 

[U7362]

Hot it YAY !!!

Good point. I have switched the ignition on/off several times and it might have lost programming for the key I was using. I'll check the theft light this afternoon. Thanks for the help

Thanks for all the help guys,
I tracked the problem down to NO INJECTOR pulse. The problem I finally discovered was a bad electronics FOB on my key. I used a spare key and it started immediately. . Just a word of caution for me, in the future I need to check that Passive Theft light.
The anti-theft works by disabling the injectors (at least on this model)- so a CRANK with no start MAY be caused by the ANTI-Theft system . . .

 

[DixieFire]

Hot it YAY !!!




Thanks for all the help guys,
I tracked the problem down to NO INJECTOR pulse. The problem I finally discovered was a bad electronics FOB on my key. I used a spare key and it started immediately. . Just a word of caution for me, in the future I need to check that Passive Theft light.
The anti-theft works by disabling the injectors (at least on this model)- so a CRANK with no start MAY be caused by the ANTI-Theft system . . .

Hello

Cranks but won't start-2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHV - 230,000 mi Engine replaced at 200,000 mi
1. Replaced fuel filter
2.Checked fuel Pressure. It is at 60+ PSI
3. It rune when I use Starting Fluid or put gas on the air filter
4. It stopped at work so I can't do much like pulling the upper manifold off.
5. Prior to dying I could leave it for a period of time and then it would start up fine until I turned it off.(that is sometimes it would start again, other times I had to let it set for a day or two).
6. Check Engine and ABS lights are on, but I can't move it to get the codes checked.
7. I have read something about the Fuel damper or fuel pressure sending unit but I can't pull the upper manifold, and besides I am getting 64-64 PSI at the rail and I have reset the computer by removing the battery for a day ( just to put it into LIMP mode in case it had a bad code-same symptoms).
8. if the injectors are shot, then all of them went at once, which is highly unlikely.
9. I have also charged the battery and tried jumping it. It cranks good and fast-No battery/starter problems.

All I can think of right now is wondering if I can check the PCM to see if I am getting an injector pulse from it. Is there anyone that cam offer any suggestions?

- Stranded--

hello, I’m new to the forum. Don’t know if you’re still in here. I have a 2000 Ford Explorer & I recently put the wrong key in the ignition. It triggered the anti theft system o think; the light came on. After that it has still started with the right key. It has been about 2 weeks since I put the wrong key in. Now it is getting harder & harder to start. It cranks but won’t start. It seems odd that it was fine and is getting worse progressively. It seems like it would either work or not work if putting the wrong key in messed up the programming. But, anyway, that’s what happened and is happening.
I’m new to this vehicle (passed down to me from my dad passing away I 2017 but I just received it) so I am checking the battery and some other things, will do the theft light test that was mentioned.
Meanwhile, I just wondered if I got a new key made of that would help or if it would remain unfixed due to the programming being messed up. I don’t know how it works. But, you said you used a spare key and your vehicle started fine, so that seemed like the same thing as if I would get a new key made. I don’t know how the key programming works when they make a new key. If I take take old key in to get a new one made, will it just copy faulty programming? Or, will that possibly solve my starting problem by getting a new key made.
I don’t know how to unscramble what I did by putting in the wrong key.

 

[RangerX]

@DixieFire My advice is to copy your post and repost it as a new thread in stock gen2 section, you will get much more assistance with the problem.
This is an old thread that’s also in the new members greeting section.

 

[DixieFire]

Thank you for that advice since I’m new & don’t know my way around on the forums.

 

[Mike65]

Welcome.