D44 vs D60 and tcase question | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

D44 vs D60 and tcase question

hazardiz

Active Member
Joined
October 28, 2003
Messages
99
Reaction score
0
City, State
Prince George, BC, Canda
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 Eddie Bauer
So I got a full width HP D44 in the truck right now...and i've now broken the second stub shaft...so right now i'm thinkin either go D60 or chromoly or kryo axles for the D44...but is it worth it to spend the money on axles or just go D60? whats the strength gain in chromoly or kryo? Also is the WMS to WMS the same on a D60 as for a D44? or how much wider?
Now on to the tcase...i put a D20 from a 74 EB in behind my c6 and twin sticked it...the rear range stick doesn't like stayin in gear and pops out...loud BANG...not fun...are the gears too worn? do i just need to stretch the detent spring? any ideas on what it might be? thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Same width axles but the 60 is scarce and expensive. I would do the moly axles and joints. Guessing here but the change from coil spring to leaf spring suspension would take some detail also. D20 needs rebuilding and here is where I would try to make a change to NP205. Hope helps.
 






same WMS to WMS? cause we measured a chev D44 and a chev D60 and the 60 is wider...or is chev only like that? what is the gain in going to chromoly in a D44? cause I can get a front kingpin D60 for under 200 bucks...does chromo D44 = D60 strength?

As for the D20...i just rebuilt it...its fresh...not even 600kms on it yet...so swapping to a 205 is kinda not an option right now...any other ideas on what it might be?
 






Definitely go with the D60 at that price. I would buy all of them I could get at that price. For help with the D20 contact www.motivegear.com .
 






The 5 lug Dana 44 that's full width is ~66-67 WMS to WMS. The 8 lug Dana 44 is ~69" and so is the D60 (also 8 lug). 8 lug to 8 lug both are the same as far as I know (from what I understand it's the same with all car manufacturers). I personally think you'd be stupid to stay with a 44 when you can get a king pin 60 for 200 bucks. You'd spend that much on a couple of chromo outers for your 44. :eek: Down here a 60 is about 800+ dollars more than that :(

Sorry, can't help ya with the t-case problem.
 






The chromo shafts will run you around $500US or so. Though keep in mind that you'd need to upgrade ujoints to CTMs, OX, etc since they will be the next weakest link. Plan on ballpark $1000US for the shafts and joints. At that level the 44 will be as strong as a stock 60. For just the cost of the axles then the 60 is your best bet at that price. Even if you don't run it, buy it and resell it. That axle is easily worth $1000-1400 depending on where you sell it.


Now heres the spoiler. I had a chance to run 60s in my Ranger, but I opted for the 44 as I was already into it for gears and the spool. The other cost that you need to factor in is wheels and tires. For a 60 you need to run a 16" wheel or larger. This means new wheels and tires since you're probably running 15s. My TSLs are pretty much new and I've already got wheels. I'd have to sell them and get new stuff again. The loss I'd take between the sale price of them as well as the price of new tires was enough that I decided to stick with the 44. Since I've only got 34s and a 2.3L I'm hoping that I'll survive for the time being, but plan to upgrade shafts and joints if breakage becomes a problem.


Also even though the D60 is a leaf spring setup, it doesn't take jack to convert it to coils. Unless you can't even figure out which end of a grinder is the right end its not that hard of a conversion :rolleyes:
 






Splodersport said:
Plan on ballpark $1000US for the shafts and joints.


The other cost that you need to factor in is wheels and tires. For a 60 you need to run a 16" wheel or larger.


Just bought Yukon chromo shafts and superjoints (same as CTM's) for around 600$.

You don't have to run larger rims on 60 axles. I know a couple people who make caliper brackets so you can run small chevy calipers and still run 15" rims.

I have 1/2 ton housing with 3/4 ton outers, custom caliper brackets, small chevy calipers and 15" rims. Just have to have the right backspacing (which I can't remember what that is exactly right now).
 






With 38" tires you would definitely benefit from a D60. They dont get along well with engine x-members though, and it does weigh a good bit more than a 44, so keep that in mind. Keeping the coil-spring set up is just a matter of attaching the spring perches and c-wedges to the axle. IMHO, a stronger transfer case or beefing up your current one a bit should be next on the list. Regardless of what your final decision is though, get that D60. Worst case scenario is that you make like $900 from just reselling it.
 






A kingpin 60 for under 200? I would buy everything in site. I havent even heard of them going for less that 800.

I would say go to cromo shafts and if you breaking something else, then go to 60. Odds are however that you'll be find with alloy shafts.
 






The price is going up on the Yukon superjoints, last I checked you can still get them for $235 from BC Broncos.
And there is a diffrence between the superjoints and the CTM/OX joints
the Yukons have a cross section made out of 4340 and the CTM are made out of 300M.
With chromo shafts and 760 u-joints the strength is equal to a stock 79 D60
15" rims will fit on a D60
 






Back
Top