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Death wobble fix help

CTroxtell

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City, State
High Point Area, NC
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94 EB 304k and counting
I'm hoping someone can help me with my wobble of death. I've had an alignment, replaced a sloppy tie rod, replaced all front wheel bearings, and had all 4 wheels force balanced. The truck drives well for the biggest part except once it hits about 65mph and it shakes like a small washing machine. Things I've noticed...getting on the brakes makes the steering shake and the truck wobble, if I use just the emergency brake then the shaking don't happen. Does this lean toward any part in particular?
 



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The braking issue sounds like a warped rotor. The 65mph shimmy sounds like a bent rim maybe
 






The braking issue sounds like a warped rotor. The 65mph shimmy sounds like a bent rim maybe

I second both of those suggestions :D

A bent rim usually can't be balanced straight - it may be fine on a computer balancer but on the car it'll still start shaking you, and they usually do around that speed.
 






Yeah, I've been balancing wheels for quite a few years, eventually you can get the weights in the right spot to make the machine stop asking for more weight, but once it's on the car, it's never really true and the shake comes back. If you find the rim with the most weights on it (Presumably the bent rim) and put it as far away from the driver as possible (passengers rear) it may be less noticable
 






Almost every single X wobbles a bit around 65 to 75. Anything under or over is fine but in that 10 mph range wobble wobble shaky shaky. From what you describe it sounds like you might have something else going on. As far as using the E-brake I would not recommend that at all. It is not safe using manual power stopping with the back brakes alone. The parking/emergency brake is intended to be used for those situations only. Too many things could go terribly wrong doing that. It sounds to me if its really that bad then something should be bent but the it would wobble all the time. When is the last time you had the rotors turned and front brakes replaced? Has anyone checked your rims to see if they are bent? I have a feeling that you have exaggerated the shake a bit and it just like everyone else's shake except the fact that your steering wheel shakes when you apply the brakes. It all depends on how much money you want to throw at getting rid of the shake. It sounds like you have replaced all you can and its just the normal X shake that 99% of us deal with. Sorry for rambling hope I helped.
 






Wow ya'll beat me to it with all my rambling lol!
 






Almost every single X wobbles a bit around 65 to 75. Anything under or over is fine but in that 10 mph range wobble wobble shaky shaky. From what you describe it sounds like you might have something else going on. As far as using the E-brake I would not recommend that at all. It is not safe using manual power stopping with the back brakes alone. The parking/emergency brake is intended to be used for those situations only. Too many things could go terribly wrong doing that. It sounds to me if its really that bad then something should be bent but the it would wobble all the time. When is the last time you had the rotors turned and front brakes replaced? Has anyone checked your rims to see if they are bent? I have a feeling that you have exaggerated the shake a bit and it just like everyone else's shake except the fact that your steering wheel shakes when you apply the brakes. It all depends on how much money you want to throw at getting rid of the shake. It sounds like you have replaced all you can and its just the normal X shake that 99% of us deal with. Sorry for rambling hope I helped.

99% of Explorers shake? That is news to me... I have had 4 first gen Explorers so far. Only one had a shake at speed (55-75) and it turned out to be a bent rim. Better rims fixed that. I did have a steering wheel shimmy during braking, new rotors fixed that.

As for the e-brake - I doubt he's using it every time he stops. It does show that applying the rear brakes alone causes no shake, confirming warped front rotors.
 






Ok so 99% is probably a bit high but it was mildly effective on getting my point across that many do shake and the ones that do just do. You can balance align replace bushings etc. etc.... it never fully goes away. But you're right its more in the 60-70% that do so thanks for pointing out my false statements.
 






I just tested the e-brake a time or two and noticed it didn't shake, I don't use it constantly. I'm probably exaggerating a little but I use it as a work truck and all my tools and metal poles get to shaking around and drive me insane. None of the tire places have said anything about any of the rims being bent or warped, I had a bent one on my BMW and they put notes on the paper about it, so unless no one has taken the time. Turning the rotors...well they turn as I drive, but no I haven't taken the rotors down and had them turned it is on my list of things to do. I think I replaced the front brakes just a while back, I know the shims broke off it when I pulled the rotors a while back so as I drive it the brake goes clunk clunk clunk as its not holding still in there.
 






From the sounds of it if your rotors are causing the shake you might want to just replace them all together and some new pads. Fairly cheap and easy to do yourself. While you have the tires off do a visual check of your own and maybe rotate them yourself front to back and see if that does it.
 






Replacing rotors will require removing the bearings - good time to check and repack the bearings. Just in case they need replacement too, budget for that. Keep in mind a torque wrench or experienced hand is required to reset the bearing preload either way.
 






Don't forget your beam pivot bushings.

Often overlooked but should be replaced if your radius arm bushings have been. Especially if you have more than 100,000 miles on the rig.
 






runningred92 said:
Ok so 99% is probably a bit high but it was mildly effective on getting my point across that many do shake and the ones that do just do. You can balance align replace bushings etc. etc.... it never fully goes away. But you're right its more in the 60-70% that do so thanks for pointing out my false statements.

Wow, it sounds like you've had bad luck. I've worked extensively on 3 first gens and driven more than I can count; the only one that had the death wobble had been in an unreported accident and had a bent rim (it was hard to spot), plus some nice bends in the axle beams and radius arms.

After I got everything fixed up and threw the bad rim out, the wobble was gone, never to return.
 






I Think most first gens have steering and brake problems because there easily overlooked by the common driver , Extensive maintenance Would keep them from having as many problems , But Most Common is brake failure and steering wobble , easily fixed when you know what to look for and do your research before hand , But sounds to me like bad rotors and brake pins , Good luck to the op with the fix !
 






Replacing rotors will require removing the bearings - good time to check and repack the bearings. Just in case they need replacement too, budget for that. Keep in mind a torque wrench or experienced hand is required to reset the bearing preload either way.

I replaced the bearings about a year ago, repacked the ones I could get to easily just a couple of months ago when I pulled the rotors off and replaced a sloppy tie rod. I think I can just carefully tap them out with a screwdriver from the opposite side correct?

Don't forget your beam pivot bushings.

Often overlooked but should be replaced if your radius arm bushings have been. Especially if you have more than 100,000 miles on the rig.
That's the PITA bushing in the TTB beam isn't it? Is there a how to on that? I replaced both radius arm bushings about a year ago as the passenger side had worn out and rubbed a oval sized hole through the bracket.
 






That's the PITA bushing in the TTB beam isn't it? Is there a how to on that? I replaced both radius arm bushings about a year ago as the passenger side had worn out and rubbed a oval sized hole through the bracket.

If your RA bushings were that bad, the beam pivot bushings are probably shot. I don't remember if there's a write up or not.

They aren't easy but they aren't impossible either
 






I replaced the bearings about a year ago, repacked the ones I could get to easily just a couple of months ago when I pulled the rotors off and replaced a sloppy tie rod. I think I can just carefully tap them out with a screwdriver from the opposite side correct?


That's the PITA bushing in the TTB beam isn't it? Is there a how to on that? I replaced both radius arm bushings about a year ago as the passenger side had worn out and rubbed a oval sized hole through the bracket.

Well the outer bushing will just fall out once the bearing retaining nut is removed. The inner bushing won't come out until the inner seal is removed, and that's hard to do without damage - but you can pack grease into the inner bearing without removing it from the rotor.

The pivot bushing is the one the TTB beam hangs off of. Honestly I need to
replace mine too, but I haven't noticed them causing any obvious issues. Haven't heard them talked about much. I'll post how-tos next on that.
 






If your RA bushings were that bad, the beam pivot bushings are probably shot. I don't remember if there's a write up or not.

They aren't easy but they aren't impossible either

I know there is something making a clunking sound in the front end if I have to really get on the brakes or if I have to drive over a speed bump, so I'm wondering if that's what that is.
 






Here's what they show under Pivot Bushing Replacement, though I don't know if the bracket would need to be removed first - I'll post that next.
 

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Here's bracket removal.
 

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