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So has anyone successfully replaced the factory sub in the factory enclosure?
 



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Welcome to the Forum Odenweller.:wavey:
There are several threads in the 'Modified' sub forum on replacing speakers or upgrading audio. I did a 'Search' and came up with this thread to which I have moved yours.

Peter
 






Chartman, I need to get the front left and front right signal from behind the factory head unit to connect to my processor do you know the steps to get to the back of the radio harness? Maybe from the side panels? It also says I need at least 12v to power it on can I get that directly from the factory head unit or do I need to run a power cable to the battery? Sorry if my questions are rookie! I've been looking all over for answers...
 






Chartman, I need to get the front left and front right signal from behind the factory head unit to connect to my processor do you know the steps to get to the back of the radio harness? Maybe from the side panels? It also says I need at least 12v to power it on can I get that directly from the factory head unit or do I need to run a power cable to the battery? Sorry if my questions are rookie! I've been looking all over for answers...

You can get the FL and FR signal from behind the radio. There is a picture showing the white/white-brown (FL) and white-purple/white-orange (FR) earlier in this thread. As for the power, it depends on what the processor calls for, but yes most times you will have to run power from the battery.
 






More to come but it may be a while, kind of over working on the car now and its time for a wash/sealant/wax which is another whole day affair...

Any updates? No rush; I won't be digging into my stereo at least until temperatures here in the Midwest are warmer, but I do love dreaming about upgrading the stereo on my Sport.
 






Thanks for all this great information fellas. I'm building a custom box, and I think I have a speaker and amp picked out. My list of components is below... please let me know if you think this setup will work well.


I'm also wondering if it would be good to use an active line output converter, and how/where exactly to hook that up. I've never dealt with interfacing with a stock system before. Would something as simple as this ( http://amzn.to/1vNEXhN ) LOC work?
 






Anyone hear if there are any direct fit replacement amps for the Sony system that comes in the Sport model?

I thought I read something somewhere that there was a higher amperage amplifier that we could purchase to replace the weak stock amp?

Anybody hear anything?
 






Thanks for all this great information fellas. I'm building a custom box, and I think I have a speaker and amp picked out. My list of components is below... please let me know if you think this setup will work well.


I'm also wondering if it would be good to use an active line output converter, and how/where exactly to hook that up. I've never dealt with interfacing with a stock system before. Would something as simple as this ( http://amzn.to/1vNEXhN ) LOC work?

I can't comment on the amp & woofer, other than depending on how long the power wire will be ran 8 gauge might not be enough @ 300 watts.

I'm using the the same Audio Control LOC though. Audio Control makes very good equipment.

Tony
 






Thank you Tony. After some research, I think I'll run 4awg for the power ( http://amzn.to/1EeSpT0 ). It'll be traveling about 21ft (and that'll leave me 4ft for the ground). If I wire the 2x4ohm (DVC) speaker in parallel, it'll be at a 2ohm load, to which that amp puts out 500w (if I've calculated everything correctly :eek:).

Where did you connect in the LOC? Just splice into any speaker wire? pre-stock-amp or post?

*UPDATE* I was just reading about the amp I have selected. It has High Level Inputs. Would I still need the LOC in this case?
 






I tapped into the stock subwoofer wires right at the sub since I was removing and replacing it with the Stealthbox. I would try both. Don't damage the Audio Control unit and Amazon is really good with returns in case you don't need it. My guess is that you'll get better sound using it instead of the high-input route, but I'm not always right!

Tony
 






I've attached some schematics for the amp IN / head unit connections (for the Sony system)(much easier to read than 12volt site). These leave me with some questions:

  1. OEM Amp in (Pre-amps that I tapped into RCA's for signal to new amp, FL-Green/Grey, FR Purple/Yellow...

    So, the connections he tapped into for RCAs are labeled "Radio" (as opposed to "Speaker"). Is this correct, and what is the difference?
  2. ...tried to use Purple/Red as Amp On but did not work...

    Is this the same purple/red wire as pin #3 on connector C3154A (labeled "Subwoofer/amplifier enable")? This would definitely seem like it should work!
  3. ...tapped blue antenna on from behind radio as shown in previous pic in this thread, thx for that pic by the way!

    so.. Satellite Digital Radio signal from connector C240A? For Amp on?!
    .
  4. Finally... does the Sony speaker system have 2 subwoofers? (would seem so based on schematic)... but I had thought there was just the one in the back right.
 

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I've attached some schematics for the amp IN / head unit connections (for the Sony system)(much easier to read than 12volt site). These leave me with some questions:



  1. So, the connections he tapped into for RCAs are labeled "Radio" (as opposed to "Speaker"). Is this correct, and what is the difference?


  2. Is this the same purple/red wire as pin #3 on connector C3154A (labeled "Subwoofer/amplifier enable")? This would definitely seem like it should work!


  3. so.. Satellite Digital Radio signal from connector C240A? For Amp on?!
    .
  4. Finally... does the Sony speaker system have 2 subwoofers? (would seem so based on schematic)... but I had thought there was just the one in the back right.

Not sure if the layout is the same. You have the Sony system, I have the Premium 8 speaker. Different amps, you have the sub, etc... I believe on mine, only the front woofers are amplified.

So for #1 , I tapped into the Radio Pre-Amp Outs that go to the factory amp, soldered them onto some RCA's after cutting the factory harness to the amp, and used them as Line Ins to my new amp.

For #2 , I definitely thought the Purple/Red Amp Enable would work as my remote turn on for the amp, but the amp would not turn on using that input.

For #3 , I had to go behind the dash and tap into the auto antenna wire (Blue).

For #4 , As far as I have heard, the Sony Sub has dual voice coils so they feed it 2 separate inputs.
 






Thanks [MENTION=274694]Chartman[/MENTION]

1) I will be doing the same, though I will T-splice into the pre-amp outs instead of cutting, as I am merely adding an amp (not replacing). I just wasn't sure if I should use the pre-amp wires labeled "Radio" (in connector C3154A, pins 7,9,17,19) or the ones labeled "Speaker" (in connector C3154B). Difference?

2) Maybe since your system doesn't have a sub (if I understand correctly), Ford had disabled that pin/signal?

3) I suppose I will try this if both the sub-enable fails to work for me as well, and if my amp doesn't in fact have an auto-on feature with speaker level inputs ;\

4) That makes sense. Hadn't considered a DVC.
 






I just purchased a 2011 XLT with the 8 speaker system and no sub. I can buy the OEM sub and enclosure online for 100 bucks. Would it be plug and play? If not, how difficult would it be to just use the enclosure and use my own amp. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 






I just purchased a 2011 XLT with the 8 speaker system and no sub. I can buy the OEM sub and enclosure online for 100 bucks. Would it be plug and play? If not, how difficult would it be to just use the enclosure and use my own amp. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

It would most likely be in your best interest of saving money by installing an aftermarket subwoofer and amp. The stock Sony amp does not give the stock subwoofer enough punch to sound effective.
 






Taking my wife's Explorer in Friday morning to get all 4 door speakers replaced. I believe the size is a 5x7? Anyways the brand is a company named Hertz. Haven't heard a lot about them and not many places have them but they sound excellent! Even compared to some of the other aftermarket speakers they had. I will let everyone know how it turns out and a review. A sub and amp are up next after that.
 






Question about aftermarket amp install

Can I just install an aftermarket amp by splicing into the OEM amps headunit cable so I dont have to mess with any of the OEM amps wiring?

Also I'm considering getting a 600x5 amp so when I replace the factory speakers just the front 2 and 2nd row 2 I was thinking of just leaving the OEM wiring there from the speakers and running new wiring from the new amp to the new speakers. In theory it seems like it should work fine but I haven't done any Audio work in a long time and I just want to upgrade the sony system a little bit. The stock sub I don't mind but the stock speakers are just so crappy :/.

Thank You
 






After a bit of an ordeal I got my front door speakers installed today. Memphis Audio 6x9 components. Definitely got the highs I was looking for. Mid bass is better too. They really like to be turned up. Still running of the factory stuff. No aftermarket amp. Im now looking to add a sub and small amp to the rear and possibly the rear door 6x9 coaxials.
 






2011 Base Explorer Audio Upgrade...Help!!

Whats up everyone new to the forums and found them by searching for audio upgrade ideas. I have never worked on a vehicle before in my life, so I was thinking about paying someone to do the upgrades for me. After doing a lot research and just having my front and rear speakers replaced, that **** is expensive!! I had my front speakers replaced with these:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/jbl-6-1...pair/8038046.p?id=1219307881936&skuId=8038046

And my rear with these: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/jbl-6-x...lack/8038055.p?id=1219307886491&skuId=8038055

They sound 100 times better than the stock.....except for the rattling I get in the front doors. To have someone install Dynamat on all four doors, it is going to cost me close to or just over $300! I've looked on youtube on how to install Dynamat myself, and it doesn't look too difficult. I'm just not sure on how to remove the door panel without destroying anything. Could someone point me in the right direction and give me some pointers?
 



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