Finally got around to making the "home depot special" intake!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Finally got around to making the "home depot special" intake!!

yosh18981898

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 17, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Chana IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 sport 4x4
OK so here it is. I used about 6" of 3" PVC pipe and 1 90* rubber clamp on elbow and 1 rubber clamp on coupler. Total cost was $12 for the fittings. I found the pipe on a job site. There was actually a good bit of work involved. I had to rotate the windshield washer fluid and antifreeze container thingy 90* counter clockwise and fab new mounts for it out of 1/2 EMT conduit. I also had to wrap the "out" side of the MAF with some black electrical tape to make it big enough to clamp the rubber fitting on it. For the throttle body, I used one of the pieces of rubber from the stock intake to build it up to clamping size. As things are I have about 3/16" of clearence between the rubber 90* and the throttle linkage and about 1/4" of clearence between the other side of the rubber 90* and the pulley on the AC compressor. I also had the extend the wires on the MAF sensor harness about 2 feet to move it to the other side. I was worried this would throw a code because of the extra resistence in the wire from the longer length, but it didn't, so no worries. OK now for the pics:


Here's a pic of the brackets that hold the container. There is also another one on the other side but this pic doesn't show it. It is super sturdy and doesn't move at all.


How does it work?

AWESOME!!!! It's got an even "edgier" sound than the same filter on the stock tube, and I swear (although I haven't timed it yet) that my 0-60 time is significantly faster.
 



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Why did you move it to the other side?
 






Thats a right side L-pipe only...duh...


:p
 






I put it on the right side because it wouldn't fit on the other side. The throttle body is offset to the right of the fan shroud so the pipe misses the fan shroud enough to sit low enough to close the hood. When I tried it on the left side, the pipe was sitting on top of the fan shroud and the hood wouldn't close. Besides that, the container thing was a heck of a lot easier to move than the battery. To move the battery, I would have had to weld in a new battery tray where the airbox used to be (This would have been nearly impossible without removing half of everything else under the hood) and I would have had to extend the the battery cables. Extending the 16 gauge MAF wires was a lot easier than extending those 2 gauge power cables going to the battery.
 






I assume that the 1st gen MAF's send pulse signals only...that had better be the case for you. If they operate by resistance, extending the lines would really mess up the MAF signals.
 






Mine fit the OEM way with 3" ABS piping from home depot but only cause it has a 3 inch body lift. But I will be moving it soon and rerouting it like you did. Huskyfan did it similar to this method but rerouting the fan downward more towards the grille. Nice job though
 






i like it !! thats the same thing i had in mind to do 4 mine but i was hesitant about doing it cause i didnt know if the computer would like extending the wireing for the sensor,, now that you removed that doubt ,, what kind of wire did you use and did ya solder the splices together ??
 






I used 18 gauge stranded wire (just what I had laying around) and used the crimp on connectors. I secured the whole thing by tightly wrapping it in black electrical tape and then putting it inside flexible plastic wire wrap stuff. And yes, the computer doesn't seem to care at all. I think member HuskyFan did the same thing and he said that it didn't affect his comp either.

But good luck, you'll love the results, and you can't beat the price either! :D
 






that is exactly what mine looks like excapt i have a little metal wall right there so i can't move my radiaotor reserve/windsheild washer fluid box back any!!!! what am i supposed to do now?
 






allso what did you use to make the adaptor for the air filter to stay on with?
 






i think its sexy. did you use the kkm filter for it? could you use any conical filter on it? i guess you could fab something with a bigger output than the mas and just do the electrical tape thing. i just don't want to buy the kkm. too much already. ha
 






Instead of struggling with electrical tape, they make smaller Fernco couplings that are 3" iron/plastic to 3" clay. These are an in between size, like 2 1/2", or 2 3/4". No hub couplings might also have an in between size, and will be shorter than the no-hub couplings. They use a metal band with 2 non removable clamps. Some of these clamps also use 4 hose clamps, but are only available in a regualar plumbing supply.
 






if you have ABS it might be a little more difficult since the the ABS pump ?(not sure what it is called but its there) is in the way on the 93- 94 models
 






I was in Pep Boys auto today, and I saw all kinds of parts, filters, couplings, and MAF adapters for doing the same thing. The way that it's done here is probably a lot cheaper than those specialty parts from those racing companies. It's basically the same idea, but those kits save you the hassle of looking around for individual parts, and all of the cutting, and measuring. There is a certain feeling of satisfaction when you build something from scratch compared to just assembling something from a kit. It expresses your creativity better.
 






what about those cheap conical filters from ebay? do those do a good job filtering or are they going to screw up my engine, which is runnin nice. i want a good air filter, but they are hard to find for the first gens.
 






roaldd said:
what about those cheap conical filters from ebay? do those do a good job filtering or are they going to screw up my engine, which is runnin nice. i want a good air filter, but they are hard to find for the first gens.

Not too hard:

http://www.kustomz.com/cat2.html
 






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