Follower/Rockers and building compression

[Daisywheels]

Currently, I have all plugs pulled from the last compression check which lead to finding a loose follower laying on the head. Come hell or high water,
I will get that follower back in place tonight. Question:

I have no access to an air compressor so I just filled the cylinder with rope. Also, I have the intake system still off. How do I go about building compression for another compression check? Will putting the valve cover back on and turning the motor over several/a few times do it? Appreciate any guidance. Thanks! -DW

 

[drdoom]

I wouldn't turn it over with the rope in there. Also I have an old thread about a loose cam follower, where in the end I pushed it back in with a straight screwdriver shimmed up with a carpenter's pencil. No other tools such as the spring compressor or air chuck.

 

[Daisywheels]

I wouldn't turn it over with the rope in there. Also I have an old thread about a loose cam follower, where in the end I pushed it back in with a straight screwdriver shimmed up with a carpenter's pencil. No other tools such as the spring compressor or air chuck.

I've seen a few videos with using a screwdriver. It may have to come to that - I'm just going to tape up the end of the screw driver to protect against the cam lobe.

Right now the lobe is pointing down. Should I get it to point up before trying this? And how would I do that.

I had planned on pulling the rope out before I ever turned the key for any reason. Thanks! -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

Cam lobe adjusted

Well, I said I was determined, but this did not go well. I pulled the rope out, and turn the ignition key just a touch to get the cam lobe pointed up, and the base down. I was able to install the rocker with my fingers! It is VERY LOOSE. I'm going to hook up a remote starter so I can see what is happening. The valve and spring still look to be in good shape. -DW

 

[drdoom]

Can you tell if the valve is fully closing? Just to add, the reason my engine tossed a follower was a valve temporarily stuck open due to a lengthy and careless storage period.

 

[Daisywheels]

Can you tell if the valve is fully closing? Just to add, the reason my engine tossed a follower was a valve temporarily stuck open due to a lengthy and careless storage period.

Drdoom, I did read your thread and saw your screwdriver and pencil trick. As far as the valve fully closing, I need to get this damn remote starter hooked up so I can see. The freaking relay between the battery and power dist box doesn't look like it wants to come off, or even should. I don't even know if there is a solenoid on the starter because that too is impossible to get to without jacking up the truck. How much harder can they make this truck to work on? I just want to get it fixed and sold. This is an extremely poorly designed motor - worst I have ever seen. -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

Well, I turned the motor over about 30 times and the rocker held. It's still very loose when the cam lobe is pointing up and the base is touching the follower. Also, I turned it over enough to at least lube the cam along with the exhaust manifold

I still can't see what the valve is doing until I find someone to turn the key as I watch.

Any chance that lash adjuster just needs to be bled and the rocker/follower will tighten on it's own? I read somewhere that rockers will make noise for quite some time until the lash adjusters self adjust. I believe the words were "rockers will slap around until lash is properly adjusted." Something like that. -DW

 

[pcam13]

I wouldn't turn it over with the rope in there. Also I have an old thread about a loose cam follower, where in the end I pushed it back in with a straight screwdriver shimmed up with a carpenter's pencil. No other tools such as the spring compressor or air chuck.

Never had an issue doing this some small nylon rope is perfect in a pinch. Just make sure it doesn't get knotted up inside. Air scares me because I once had a 100 gal compressor kick off and not back in and almost dropped valve inside...

 

[Daisywheels]

Never had an issue doing this some small nylon rope is perfect in a pinch. Just make sure it doesn't get knotted up inside. Air scares me because I once had a 100 gal compressor kick off and not back in and almost dropped valve inside...

Well I think I'm beyond that right now. The problem now is the rocker is loose. I'm leary about putting it all back together and just hoping it will eventually tighten up. T'm thinking about just buying one lash adjuster, bleed it, and see if I can get the rocker to tighten up before putting the valve cover back on. Thoughts? Thanks! -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

lash adjuster plunger travel

According to my Haynes manual:

A thin wire or paper clip can be placed in the oil hole to move the plunger and make sure it's not stuck. Note: The lash adjuster must have no more than 1.5 mm of total plunger travel. It's recommended that if replacement of any of the adjusters is necessary, that the entire set be replaced.

 

[Daisywheels]

According to my Haynes manual:

A thin wire or paper clip can be placed in the oil hole to move the plunger and make sure it's not stuck. Note: The lash adjuster must have no more than 1.5 mm of total plunger travel. It's recommended that if replacement of any of the adjusters is necessary, that the entire set be replaced.

Hey StreetRod - Read the exact same thing, and I did put a paper clip into the lash adjuster but there was no movement at all - no "plunging action." This was right after I took it out so I assume there was oil in it. Not sure now. Also, the paper clip went down about an inch - maybe a bit more. Does this sound right?
Thanks! -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

lash adjuster testing

I have searched my 2000 Explorer, 2002 Explorer and 2004 Aviator workshop manuals. None of the manuals provide any useful information on checking out or testing the lash adjusters on the 4.0L V6, the 4.6L SOHC or DOHC V8. This link may be helpful: How can I tell if my lash adjusters are bad?

 

[Daisywheels]

I have searched my 2000 Explorer, 2002 Explorer and 2004 Aviator workshop manuals. None of the manuals provide any useful information on checking out or testing the lash adjusters on the 4.0L V6, the 4.6L SOHC or DOHC V8. This link may be helpful: How can I tell if my lash adjusters are bad?

Okay, thanks. What do you think about just installing the valve cover, putting all the pieces back together except the intake manifolds, and start it up at no higher than 2,000 rpms for about 10 minutes, then check compression?

I honestly do not know what all needs to present to build compression (read I'm an idiot). I just now checked it for the hell of it, and it SOUNDS better, as in it sounds like the other cylinders, as opposed to earlier with no sound from the bad cylinder. Of course, it still reads 0 compression in that cylinder. I have 3 plugs installed in the other bank, and just itching to try this until somebody tells me not to!

ETA: I did buy another follower, but am leery about using it since I should replace them all, at least on one bank.

The new one can be pushed down a bit on top just with your finger - like a plunger. I don't know what the paper clip test was actually supposed to do.
-DW

 

[Daisywheels]

lash adjuster testing

FYI - The paper clip trick from Haynes does indeed work. The head or nipple should not be able to move with your fingers. If you stick a paper clip about 3/4 of th way down, and you find the sweet spot, the whole nipple will indeed move up and down. This did not happen on my first try. Also, this is when the follower is full of oil. If no oil, or a new lash adjuster, you should be able to push the nipple down acting like a plunger just with your fingers. All of you laughing at nipples and sweet spots should be ashamed of yourselves

-DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

no intake manifold?

Okay, thanks. What do you think about just installing the valve cover, putting all the pieces back together except the intake manifolds, and start it up at no higher than 2,000 rpms for about 10 minutes, then check compression? . . .

You can check compression without an intake manifold using the starter because the head intake ports are open to the atmosphere. It's similar to WOT. However, you should not attempt to actually start the engine since without a throttle there is no way to control the engine speed. You should disable the ignition before cranking the starter. Otherwise, there is the remote possibility the engine could start and immediately increase in engine speed until the rev limiter became active. That would not be good for engine bearings. Also, since no air would be pulled thru the MAF sensor the mixture would be extremely lean and detonation would be prevalent. I installed a remote crank capability so I could crank the engine from under the hood with or without ignition: Remote crank control

 

[Daisywheels]

Awesome info as always StreetRod. I did notice upon even closer inspection that the old lash adjuster nipple is slightly off center. I'm not sure if that's normal, but I'm going to soak the new HLA in oil, and install it. Then I'll put EVERYTHING back together and fire it up. Well, I missed a step - I'll pray first before firing it up. All of this should go back together pretty easy after doing it so many times!
IF it works, I'll get six new lash adjusters from RockAuto.
I'll let you know how it goes....Thanks again -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

Nah, as expected, it just threw the rocker again after putting it all back together -DW.

 

[Daisywheels]

Another follower threw

Interesting - just pulled everything apart again, but before I did that I checked the oil to see if the newly thrown follower did any major damage. Chicken Soup! Water/Coolant mixed in oil. So I took it apart to find out the damage ONLY to find that the EXHAUST VALVE FOLLOWER right next to the one I put back on was thrown! Come on, I only ran the motor at 1,000 rpms till Normal op. temp, then raised to 3000 for one minute and shut it down - per Haynes.

Anybody got any ideas, or do I just go up the line throwing followers, oh, and it smoked an awful lot. Thought it was the oil that spilled on the exhaust. I don't want to pull that head! Looks like I have no choice now, right? Thanks - DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

front cover

Did you pull the front cover off previously?

If so, coolant will fall into the oil pan and you have to change the oil after reinstalling the front cover.

 

[Daisywheels]

Did you pull the front cover off previously?
View attachment 84348
If so, coolant will fall into the oil pan and you have to change the oil after reinstalling the front cover.

By front cover I assume you mean Bank 2 where the timing chain is in front. My bad bank is 1 where the timing chain is in the back - accessible by pulling the valve cover - but I learned not serviceable unless motor or tranny pulled. Don't think that is the issue. I never pulled off the front cover. Thanks - DW