Front Right power window stopped working - what part to get?

[Vikram]

I don't think its a fuse issue cos when i push the button i can hear the power window motor (i assume thats what i am hearing) groaning but its not moving the window.

So does that mean i would have to replace the power window motor or regulator what?

 

[Montana Daze]

Have you removed the inside door panel so you can visualize the mechanisim?

 

[Vikram]

nah tbh i dont think i have the skills to do that alone, i ended up taking some silicone lube and sprayed it in the cracks and sides of the windows and now the window is moving smoothly, however when i hold the power button down i can hear (what i think is) the motor continuing to run even after the window is fully up or down - what does that mean? otherwise it seems to be working well for now.

 

[wvb1967]

I don't think its a fuse issue cos when i push the button i can hear the power window motor (i assume thats what i am hearing) groaning but its not moving the window.

So does that mean i would have to replace the power window motor or regulator what?

with a setup like this most likely the gear on the motor stripped the teeth out and you will need to replace the motor

 

[CDW6212R]

The gear system in the window motors are the built in weak links, they are plastic and low cost to buy at all parts stores. You have to R&R the motor to get it out to access the small cover over the gears. The three pucks inside that always deform are about $7 in the HELP section. The other parts inside usually are fine, but those cost $20+ as a kit.

 

[Vikram]

The gear system in the window motors are the built in weak links, they are plastic and low cost to buy at all parts stores. You have to R&R the motor to get it out to access the small cover over the gears. The three pucks inside that always deform are about $7 in the HELP section. The other parts inside usually are fine, but those cost $20+ as a kit.

can i just get this window motor + regulator assembly and have a shop replace it? im hoping it will be a better design and last longer and work better

More Information for VARIOUS MFR FO1351157

www.rockauto.com

 

[CDW6212R]

I would not do that, the Ford window motors are the best, way better than any other brands. The motor itself can last forever, and they are often faster than the aftermarket cheap stuff.

The only parts to worry about are those I mentioned, made to wear out and not damage the motor parts. Those usually last 10-20 years, replace them and the motor assembly works like new.

 

[EB4X]

I understand CD's view on this but my view would be to get that whole assembly being it's only $42 being you're going to PAY someone to install and tear into the door anyway...the labor to extract the motor and replace the pucks and put it all back together only to POSSIBLY have another weak link go out on that 26 year old assembly next year thus I would go with that whole assembly now, yes some of the chinese/ cheap ones MIGHT have a failure 4 years from now but by then your 95 might have bigger/ more expensive issues by then (trans rebuild?).... I replaced all 4 assemblies in my 4 door Jeep SUV with cheapos and 3 are still going strong whereas, yes, one did start having issues about 4 years later....there's a small roll of the dice...
And to add, Ford used rivets to hold the regulator assembly onto the door, so all those have to be drilled out and replaced with next to perfect size / length bolts ....just more to it then other vehicles...

 

[CDW6212R]

The OEM motors are an assembly of the motor, and the gear drive parts. The motor is awesome, the worst that should happen with that part is the brushes to wear out. I've never worn out a motor in any of my Fords. The only other failure besides the gear pucks etc, has been the steel shaft which the gear spins around. That happened with my last 91 Mark VII, one door had a roughness for a long time, and once I went in to replace the plastic pucks, I noticed the shaft a little loose. I put it together, and it was skipping a bit still. So that assembly was toast, I scrapped it.

The regulator you don't have to mess with, just support the glass not falling when the motor is removed(three bolts). The small cover on the side has tiny screws, take that off and you are into the gears and grease. Clean it all out, the parts, and reinstall the new plastic pieces as needed. Put it back in, and it should be good for another 10-20 years. That will cost you less than the inferior aftermarket(and China junk) parts, and it should be reliable for longer than you own the vehicle after that.


Now some people abuse windows, they run them up and down several times a day, and they blip the buttons constantly to move the glass a couple of inches. If you abuse the parts, no matter what they are, do not be surprised if they last less than half the time as other people experience. I'd had cars that all the windows and door locks had failures. I had to replace all of the pucks, all of the switches, and the door lock actuators, plus rebend some of te rods to the actuators. Abusing parts is not smart, it causes headaches for everyone later who drives the cars. Be easy with those buttons, the switches are very fragile.

 

[Vikram]

The gear system in the window motors are the built in weak links, they are plastic and low cost to buy at all parts stores. You have to R&R the motor to get it out to access the small cover over the gears. The three pucks inside that always deform are about $7 in the HELP section. The other parts inside usually are fine, but those cost $20+ as a kit.

are these the part you are talking about or can you post a link?

91-97 FORD EXPLORER POWER WINDOW MOTOR GEAR REPAIR KIT (x2) PAYPAL | eBay

(Rebuild one motor and keep the other kit for when another window motor fails. 1) 6 drive pins that fit inside the motor gear.SIX PINS is enough to rebuildTWO window motors. If your window motors whirr but don't lift or drop, then most likely the ten-plus year old drive pins inside the motors...

www.ebay.com

tbh i may try to attempt this myself as a project!

 

[CDW6212R]

That's six of those pucks, so enough for two window motors. Taking the motor out is fairly easy, just be careful and keep you hands away from the regulator gears. Support the glass with something holding it up inside the door, before removing the three motor mounting bolts. The only tricky part is being patient when holding the motor back inside up against the regulator, lining up the holes. That's about a five minute job if go slow, then the rest is no big deal. R&Ring the plastic internal parts is just messy, the old grease etc. Have some good new grease to put in it, and don't fill it completely full, leave some air gaps around the parts(notice how much air space is inside when you first remove the cover over the gears of the motor assembly).

 

[jeffreyjselleh]

I don't think its a fuse issue cos when i push the button i can hear the power window motor (i assume thats what i am hearing) groaning but its not moving the window.

So does that mean i would have to replace the power window motor or regulator what?

Sounds like a regulator to me. I’ve done my share of them.

 

[leodisalvio]

I would not do that, the Ford window motors are the best, way better than any other brands. The motor itself can last forever, and they are often faster than the aftermarket cheap stuff.

The only parts to worry about are those I mentioned, made to wear out and not damage the motor parts. Those usually last 10-20 years, replace them and the motor assembly works like new.

I would do exactly that. Just replace the cylinders inside the mechanism. I bought this kit but you can also have them (cylinders) done by a turner.

 

[96eb96]

That's six of those pucks, so enough for two window motors. Taking the motor out is fairly easy, just be careful and keep you hands away from the regulator gears. Support the glass with something holding it up inside the door, before removing the three motor mounting bolts. The only tricky part is being patient when holding the motor back inside up against the regulator, lining up the holes. That's about a five minute job if go slow, then the rest is no big deal. R&Ring the plastic internal parts is just messy, the old grease etc. Have some good new grease to put in it, and don't fill it completely full, leave some air gaps around the parts(notice how much air space is inside when you first remove the cover over the gears of the motor assembly).

Window mechanisms CAN remove fingers. There are some graphic pics on the board. I am not sure of all the modes it can snap but there is a strong spring involved. If the OP wants do this himself, he should raise the window to the highest position and use 3 pieces of duct tape to support the glass at the top of the door while the motor is out. Replacing the entire regulator (with no glass, in the down position) is a pretty much a loaded gun if you remove the motor.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the older Fords had very strong springs on the regulators which helped to lift the glass. Be very careful with those to keep fingers away from the regulator when the motor is removed, with the window supported well. There are a lot of new type of regulators since the early 90's, most of those aren't very dangerous to work with. We have to keep reminding people about the old types, they will always be around for people to work with.

 

[joney]

Yes, the older Fords had very strong springs on the regulators which helped to lift the glass. Be very careful with those to keep fingers away from the regulator when the motor is removed, with the window supported well. There are a lot of new type of regulators since the early 90's, most of those aren't very dangerous to work with. We have to keep reminding people about the old types, they will always be around for people to work with.

SO glad I read this thread...I'll be replacing my window motor soon! Didn't know about the regulator springs, hoping my 98 has a newer type but thanks to you and 96eb96 I'm forewarned!!

 

[CDW6212R]

You won't mind doing the 98, those don't have the large spring wound up and poised to hurt you. Just support the glass before R&Ring the motor bolts, and motor. Those are easy.

 

[Islandguyhere]

There's some good opinions... until 06 the win motor gears are crap. Easy to fix pain in the a** to get in there. Take off the door panel. There will be a couple of studs you'll have to grind off to get motor out. (Or hit them with a screw driver and hammer watch out for the glass) If you succeed in that you're half way there. Go to Napa they have the gears and little plastic balls you'll need. Ez to replace. Reinstall is a B*tch. I don't do it myself anymore. Your hands will take a few days to heal.

2 hours mechanic labor. Expect roughly $250 to hv a mechanic do it.

If you're into figuring things out it's no big deal. GL

96, 97, 01, 2 x 05 (the worst yr model), 07, 2 x 2010 and a Mountaineer 97 v8 all wheel currently in my stable. I'd take 99s all day over any other. Just hard to find. Again GL.

 

[CDW6212R]

The 95to early 97's still had the old type of regulator, the 98-01's I know have the good and relatively easiest motors to R&R. I forgot if there were any rivets of just three bolts in my 98's and the 99. I've been used to drilling and popping out the big rivets for ages, those you get used to after a few.

Some aftermarket motors don't line up well with the regulator gear and the three holes. Some are made with different dimensions which makes those bad to install, on a Mark VII I had one of them cause a skipping of the gears. I found a spare OEM motor and threw away that cheap parts store brand.

For OEM motors, I general get those installed in a few minutes. It takes a minute or two to start the three bolts, but then it's quick to run them in with the small socket(5/16" IIRC).

 

[Islandguyhere]

The 95to early 97's still had the old type of regulator, the 98-01's I know have the good and relatively easiest motors to R&R. I forgot if there were any rivets of just three bolts in my 98's and the 99. I've been used to drilling and popping out the big rivets for ages, those you get used to after a few.

Some aftermarket motors don't line up well with the regulator gear and the three holes. Some are made with different dimensions which makes those bad to install, on a Mark VII I had one of them cause a skipping of the gears. I found a spare OEM motor and threw away that cheap parts store brand.

For OEM motors, I general get those installed in a few minutes. It takes a minute or two to start the three bolts, but then it's quick to run them in with the small socket(5/16" IIRC).

99? Mileage (Tranny) ? Interested in selling?