fuel line damage recall

[okii]

I have a 1997 ford explorer XLT. Last week I had to have a jump start done on the car because I had left a light on in the car. In the next few days, I have been smelling gas in the passenger cabin and under the hood area. In speaking with a friend who also owns a 1997 explorer, he mentioned that in 1998 Ford had a recall on this explorer to replace a bolt and provide a warning sticker regarding using the bolt for grounding during jump starts. Apparently the bolt is in contact with the fuel line, and when used as a ground, the plastic liner in the fuel line could be damaged, causing the fuel line to leak. My car has no such warning on this bolt. Since my gas line appears to be damaged, will my Ford dealership repair the line and replace the bolt as part of the original recall work at no cost to me? When the recall came out in 1998, the repair work only involved replacing the bolt and providing a warning tag. Thanks all

Okii

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Here is some information on this issue: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154041&page=1&pp=20

 

[okii]

braided fuel line damage

thanks for the post. I just checked the car and there is a sticker on the bracket. Unfortunately, the english portion of the tag was stuck under the bracket, and it was not noticed by any of us. In reading your link, it appears that these stainless steel braided fuel lines are expensive ($600 in '98). Any idea if a ford service center would carry replacements now, and how much would it cost to install them? I'm seriously bummed.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Later in that thread, it said that he fixed it with some brass fittings, and hose clamps. Try to send KBabiak a PM, or email if you want to get the original hoses.

 

[ExploringNC]

I have the same problem on my 98 XLT. I replaced the braided line 4 years ago for $126 from a Ford dealer now its leaking again and the same dealer wants $500 for the same part. I never used this bracket for jump starting. I believe that mine is leaking at the fitting that connects to the fuel rail so I don't think I can fix it without having a special crimper. I tried going to Aeroquip but they will not touch a fuel line. It seems to me that this is a serious problem to have :fire: and it should be fixed by Ford under a recall and not just putting a sticker on the bracket that has nothing to do with where my leak is at.

 

[jabramson]

Bringing it back alive

Aparrently I just did this to myself. I had to jump start my explorer the other day and have been smelling gas ever since. I don't have everything to do it on my own and the part from the dealer is close to $540.

Most expensive jump start I have ever done.

Damn!

 

[studd469]

yup been there done that! My inlaws used my truck to jump their car. Smelt the fuel instantly. This was back in October of last year. Called ford thinking that the fuel lines were in and around $100, nearly crapped my pants when they told me $649 each. I was like no no I only need the short stainless steele lines not the fuel lines from the gas tank LOL! Needless to say I didn't buy them. I just cut the fuel lines and spliced them together. It stayed like that until last week when I scored some fuel lines at a scrap yard.

 

[jabramson]

unfortunately I am at a point it has to be fixed and I don't have the skills, tools and time to do it on my own. The cost is crazy. Particullarly since it should be considered a flaw in the design.

From my understanding from the shop, the intake manifold has to be pulled as well as other parts. They say it is billable at almost 4 hours according to the manual. Is it just the braided fuel lines that Ford charges all that money for?

Not to mention that my truck even though it got repaired a lot at the dealer under warranty, never let me know about this recall. I have no sticker or long bolt on the altenator.

If you put a metal brace on what looks like it is connected to the engine, why wouldn't it be grounded. Apparently that is the reason for damaging the fuel line because the braided line carries the current to ground and heats up damaging the fuel line in the process.

 

[studd469]

unfortunately I am at a point it has to be fixed and I don't have the skills, tools and time to do it on my own. The cost is crazy. Particullarly since it should be considered a flaw in the design.

the tools needed are a screwdriver some sort of cutters to cut the fuel line.
The skill is basic, and as for the time... an hour, go to the store pick up the splicers, and hose clamps and in stall. Good luck with what ever route you choose.

 

[ExploringNC]

I've done this twice and there is absolutly no reason to pull the manifold. If you absolutly can't do it yourself take it somewhere else, they are trying to gouge you for more than it should cost. The part itself is very expensive (over $500) but the labor is only about an hour. Check out this forume for people parting out there X, look on e-bay, call junk yards, you can find a used one and save a tone of cash. To replace it all you need is a fuel line disconnect tool (which you can buy a cheap one at a parts store) and a small socket set with an extension and a knuckle.

 

[jabramson]

I checked with the Ford dealer today and they don't sell just the line. Apparently it is sold as an assembly that includes the pressure regulator. Part cost $550.

What a ripoff.

I am going to consult a couple of local people to see if they can help me with replacing just the lines. But I can't be off the road to long because I need it to get to work and drive my kids to summer camp each day so I got to get it done this weekend somehow.

Wish me luck.

 

[studd469]

I checked with the Ford dealer today and they don't sell just the line. Apparently it is sold as an assembly that includes the pressure regulator. Part cost $550..

Yes the regulator is attached to the fuel line. There is nothing you can do about that. There is no way to remove and reuse the pressure regulator.

What a ripoff.

Ya I would have to agree.

When I change my fuel lines I did it without removing the top end. I had to remove the intake, and alternator, I also losened the bracket that holds the upper rad hose inorder to access the bottom bolt

Good luck!!