Full-time 4x4 in '96? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Full-time 4x4 in '96?

JDraper said:
This is one of those things that I don't believe anyone has sorted out yet. As Ben said, I think I can figure it out if someone brings a truck to my place for a day. I need to put the truck on jackstands and monitor the t-case signal with a scope to see what type of signal it requires. There have been several discussions about whether it's a straight voltage signal or a modulated signal. A quick look with an oscilloscope should do the trick.


JDraper...Where is McVeytown? I might be able to make a trip one day, let ya try on my 95 xlt. I'm not completely inclined to this sort of thing so I can't try, but I'll make a guinnea pig outta my X if McVeytown isn't a bad drive to do in a day. PM me, lemme know.
 



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This may sound like a dumb question, but where is the best (and least expensive) place to buy a SPDT switch, some 12/14 gauge stranded wire, and some crimp-on connectors? I don't have an electronic supply store anywhere near me. I miss the Radio Shack that was only 10 minutes away back when I was in New Hampshire.
 












Well, I will be gathering parts here and plan on doing it in the next few weeks. I will try to take pics and do a writeup in a seperate thread for future reference for members. (and of course give credit to gijoecam for all his help and directions)
 












I have been looking for a fix to the 4 auto for my 95. I have decieded to try the procedure. I am wondering when hooked up what position on the switch would be on and which spot would be off? I am also wondering if you connect the positive from the lighter port to the switch, do you need to connect a ground up?
 






I forgot I will be using a SPDT switch for the job.
 






No need for a ground the tcase is a ground,
 






hckyrugb said:
I forgot I will be using a SPDT switch for the job.

It just depends on what type of switch you got (ON-ON or On-Off-On) and how the switch is arranged internally. The package that the switch comes in should be labeled, but it's easy enough to figure out with a multimeter.

-Joe
 






Well, I'm going to go buy the stuff today. I will be doing the mod tomorrow and will report back.
 






Good luck! Post-up when it's done so we can stop worrying about you. :p

-Joe
 












you can still have 4x4 auto. I got my supplies today and will be doing it tomorrow afternoon.

Joe - try not to worry too much, I know you care so much about me, and honestly I am touched :D
 






ok i'll grab a bag of popcorn and wait..i wanna see if this works like it should...cause i could use it.
 






Yes, if you use the proper switch, you will be able to use the automatic mode still.

One thing you might want to double-check: I can't vouch for the '95 and '96 cigarette lighter current rating. If it was less than 20A, I'd be surprised, but I can honestly say that I didn't check the rating. I'll try to verify it when I get to work today.

Regardless, the cigarette lighter circuit (or whichever circuit you pull power FROM to send to the clutch) should be rated for at least 15A. The cigarette lighter was convenient for me as I only ever have a GPS or a cell phone charger plugged in, so the additional current isn't much. I do still plan on pulling the switch sometime soon just to see how much current it draws.

Just out of curiosity, when you hook it up, can you check with an ammeter (or multimeter set to read the current) and see exactly how much current the transfer case clutch coil draws? I'm guessing around 5 or 6A, but it should be less than 15.

Good luck!

-Joe
 






Well, my fiance needed the truck today to get to work, so I will not be able to do it this afternoon as originally hoped. With the way our work schedules have been, I should be able to do it Sunday. Hopefully I may be able to report back before then, but I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't until Sunday. :(
 






On monday I made the t case wiring modification. I bought a spdt switch from radio shack for three bucks. It took me about four hours to do. The reason it took so long was because I was unable to remove the cover over the splice. On my 95 there was a black cover then some sort of clear liner under that which was bonded to the brown cover of the wires. I had to cut into the clutch coil wire I little further up the wire because of the splice cover. Because of this I ended up using the tweezers a lot. The hardest part was stripping the coil wire that I cut. I was un able to use a wire stripper because of clearance issues. I took the truck to a dirt field after I was finished to test it out. It works! From what I could tell the four auto was locking up. Tomorrow I am going to put It up on jack stands to see exactly what is happening with the switch in each position. Thanks alot gijoecam, without the info from the brown wire mod thread I would have been unable to make this mod.
 






omg i hope its true!! i could so use this on our snowy roads. right now the rear slips then the front kicks in and then i have to let off the gas cause i'm just spinning all 4 then.
 






this mod is something I am very interested in as well. I live in southern ontario right along the lake, lots of snow and bad conditions. just a thought though, hckyrugb, if you put it up on jack stands, wont all wheels spin in both 4x4 modes?? in one it should hopefully be locked, but in auto 4x4 it will sense slipping and lock anyway...? I'm not sure but I would think that would happen. Please let us all know though, I dont think it is going to get any nicer out for a while.
 



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Assuming it's an ON-ON switch, and the factory switch is in 4 auto, with the switch one way, it will work automatically just as it should, and with the switch the other way, it will lock the transfer case clutch 100%.

In either case, the factory switch has to be locked in 4 auto to engage the front axle. In 2wd, the center-axle disconnect will disconnect the front passenger side axle shaft between the diff and the halfshaft, so locking the diff really won't do squat.

hckyrugb, Glad you got 'er working!! Did you, by any chance, measure the current draw while you had it apart?


-Joe
 






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