Grandma's 91 X. From Stock To Rock!

[bakken78]

I'm ready to start the build up on Grandma's grocery getter. 91 X all stock and original owner from day one. It has seen many years of good service and has brought us home warm and safe everytime. But it is now time to let her loose and have some fun doing what she was made to do.

I've been reading a lot of posts and think I have the correct info to get started. The X is a 91 with an A4LD tranny that goes back to 3.55 open Diff. Currently 100% stock and in good running conditon. Stock, as in the whole thing has been replaced one piece at a time with OEM parts. including the door pins.

I'm looking for a good look that will still be capable for some average fun on the weekends. Here is what I have gathered from all of the forums so far.

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Replace Auto locking Hubs with Warn Manual Hubs.
Warn 29071 Standard Manual Hub Kit - $146.33
Warn 32720 Premium Manual Hub Spindle Nut Kit - $54.04

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Replace the Rear Diff with the Aussie Locker. Then wait and see about the front later down the road.
Aussie Locker XD-48831 - $259.99
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Front suspension Lift. Just going mild with a 2" lift starting with:
SkyJacker 132X springs - $130.56
and have the F-150 spacer ready if needed.
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Rear Suspension will be 2" also:
Skyjacker AAL R225 - $75.65
Have the Shackels ready if needed. War153 - $58.95
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Body Lift Kit: This is up for grabs.
Performance Accessories 793 3" Body Lift Kit - $156.93
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Wheels and rubber still to be decided. I want a good driver, but still be able to get where I'm going on the trail and not get stuck. I hear the BFG M/T is the way to go.


This will be my starting point. Since The X was a free hand me down, I'll get all this stuff at the same time and install over a few nights and weekends.
Any little tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated. There is A lot of knowledge here to soak up from what I have seen. Any and all advice will be greatly Appreciated.


And one last thing. What do you guys carry in your tool/stuck/parts/uh oh its broke box when you go out? The whole kitchen sink or just a screwdriver?

Thanks again for the help!!

 

[Flip4ford]

Your lockouts... is that the part number for the rear of a D35 Jeep? I have the ones for a jeep.. strongest out there and with a lifetime warrenty! If you do everything right. You shouldn't need a body lift. You don't really replace the Rear diff with an Aussie lock (unless you just typed it wrong), you add the locker to the diff. Dude you need to look into gears...

 

[little x]

I second flip4ford's comment on the gears. If you do the 2" suspension and 3" body then you'll want to throw 33's in there, so you 'll need to regear.

 

[fordktpjoe]

Make sure to take, and post, PLENTY OF PICTURES of your progress!

 

[seth247]

If you have 4 wheel drive you have a limited slip front and rear differential.

Lockers are still a good idea.

Don't forget diamond clear headlights from eBay! They look great and shine better.

I would suggest a steering stabilizer if you will go offroad.

They at cheapish.

 

[IZwack]

If you have 4 wheel drive you have a limited slip front and rear differential.

Neg... Explorers never came with a limited slip front differential, all are "open".

And not all rear axles have limited slips (even if its 4wd) -- only some of them do (hence the "D" code in the door sticker).

 

[JDraper]

IF you're going with bigger tires, then you will definitely want to re-gear. You can do 31's on 3.55's, but anything larger should definitely be re-geared. 32" tires work well with 4.10's and 33's work well with 4.56's.

Add a tranny cooler. Wheeling is hard on transmissions, and the best way to keep it from blowing up is to add a cooler.

Get sturdy tow points front and rear.

For recovery gear, at minimum get a tow strap and maybe a come-along. A Hi-Lift jack is also a very good item to have. Also carry work gloves, a small tool kit (socket set, wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, etc), duct tape, baling wire, electrical tape, extra vehicle fluids, extra fan belt, paper towels and rags, a mat or old blanket to throw down to work on.

 

[Tbars4]

...and don't forget the all important zip ties...As big as you can find also come in handy along with some cinch straps for tieing stuff down and holding stuff together...

 

[seth247]

Neg... Explorers never came with a limited slip front differential, all are "open".

And not all rear axles have limited slips (even if its 4wd) -- only some of them do (hence the "D" code in the door sticker).

OOOOPS. Don't listen to me. I'm a dummy.

Anyway the easiest way to tell is if the diff tag has an "L" between the numbers for the gear ratio.

As in 3L55 for him and 3L73 for me.

 

[91ROKKRAWLER]

:ttiwwp:

 

[Four0Sport]

i really dont like the 'worthless without pics' smiley banner thing but i do agree.. lets see some b4 and after pics

start a registry or a before and after thread and deffinetly check out the stickies in the sections and TBars How-To in his signature, good reads.. good stuff.

 

[seth247]

I also don't like the ttiwwp smiley.

Needs to be changed to this thread needs pictures or something of that sort.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Is your name Scott? Or are you related him?...

Ryan

 

[seth247]

My middle name is Scott.

But I don't think your talking to me.

 

[bakken78]

Yep that's me. The one and only!

Great Ideas on the gear to take too. keep em coming. Thanks.

I'm going to post some pictures tonight on the stock SOB.



One question though. Will the 2" Skyjacker lift require any other mods or should it bolt right in. Maybe an alighnment or something but I'm hoping I won't have to start replacing the whole front end. Atleast not yet anyways.


PS. SOB is for Straight Original Body. Geez what were you thinking?

 

[Four0Sport]

with extended coils you will need an alignment with new camber shims.. while they are still stiff and new your front end geometry will be exaggerated. after they settle some it will be ok. your truck will sit higher than 2" with those leveling coils, they are about 1.5" over stock height, height of new stock coils, your factory coils have sagged.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Scott, we went to school together....although we didn't hang out together.....

The name Bakken though is hard to miss, and easy to remember...

Ryan
c/o `97 BHS

 

[bakken78]

I have more questions. But first here is a little experience that I recently had.

The main reason that I have started this project is the snow that we recieved here in the puget sound area in the last two weeks. As I'm sure Spdrcer34 will atest too. While at a X-mas party in the other town, it started to snow. And I mean snow But I said no problem. I have 4 wheel drive. there was about 18" of powder on the ground so we threw the kids in and headed home. While we were doing just fine, I started to hear a popping noise coming from the front driver side wheel well area. All I knew was just get home. Don't wanna get stuck in this stuff out in the middle of no where in this stuff.

Well we made it home just fine. But the next day when we went out the popping got worse. Louder, more frequent and a grinding noise every once in a while like the Auto hubs were slipping. Later that day they just went:thumbdwn: They just grind now and do nothing. Warn manual hubs will be here next week.

There's nothing worse then putting chains on your 4x4 just to get out of your 50' driveway then take them off because the roads aren't that bad. Did this a few times and almost drove the :exp: off the cliff.:frustrate: Then I calmed down and thought " if I drive it off a cliff before I get the new hubs, I'd just have to put the chains back on to get it out"

So I started thinking "this is never going to happen again!!" Plus I want to get out and see what these things can really do on the trail.

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After all that here are a few more Q's.

1. How much better or worse are the Aussie Autolockers in the snow? Is it worth it over all? The trail, snow, ice, mud, rocks, and all. And how bad are they in the snow and ice if at all? I here that a locked Diff can slide sideways a lot more easily then an open one.

2. Aussie Locker in the front or rear? Would putting it in the front or rear help more in the snow or not?

3. Does a body lift do anything more then give you more Wheel/Tire clearance and a higher center of gravity?

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Tranny cooler is a go too. I here they need all the help they can get. We had the local ford dealership replace it back in 2000. A4LD that is. New, Reman, refurb, not sure. It seems pretty solid except for one little thing. In the morning when it's cold, be ready to sit for a minute or two. Put in drive and nothing. Any gear? nothing! then all of a sudden it just catches. I've read of a sticky proportioning valve that can easily be cleaned and the problem will go away. Right now it's not that big of a pain for me to do it. I see it as the valve is just a proportioning valve for the tranny fluid and isn't harming anything or going to create more trouble. It just needs a cleaning. Once it's warm it goes away for good.

 

[JDraper]

Some answers for you.

1. Autolocker will definitely improve your traction in any slippery condition. A locked axle will cause the rear to slide a little more, but the benefit of having both wheels driven far outweighs the sliding. My '05 Supercrew will be getting one in the near future, and I have no plans to offroad it.

2. If you're only putting one locker in, put the locker in the rear...you DON'T want the front locked for general driving in snow or offroad. It severely compromises your steering ability and handling. Front lockers are great when you are doing much harder, slower offroading for maximum traction, but you would not like the results for general driving. If you put one in the front, you would have to drive with one hub unlocked in 4wd in everything but the worst conditions.

3. You are correct...more wheel clearance, but a higher center of gravity. Suspension lift is a far better solution. Get's the whole truck higher, not just the body.

 

[Spdrcer34]

All I have is Manual Hubs...Stock Tires...stock height..

I had 0 problems this past week. As you know Wheaton Way was terrible this past week, but once it turns to SR303 @ Fred Meyer (City/County line) it was clear...

So I locked my hubs when I left the house, pulled onto Wheaton Way, and when I hit Fred Meyer I could turn off 4WD, and drive all the way to work in Silverdale and not need to put it back into 4WD until I pulled into the parking lot.

Manual Hubs are THE SINGLE BEST upgrade you could do!

Ryan