Grinding noise turning left

[rstark]

Ok, need more help

2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4 Wheel Drive V6

Symptom:
Upon turning left SOME of the time, there's a "grinding" noise that sounds as if it is coming from near the front right wheel. It seems as if it happens more when going uphill, from a stop, at very low speeds.

Things that have already been done in the recent couple of years:
Front Left, Front Right wheel bearings and hub assemblies have been replaced
Left Rear wheel bearing has been replaced
Front Drive Shaft removed
4WD control module removed (it blew a few years ago)
Front CV axles removed
Rear Diff fluid drained and replaced
Friction modifier added to Rear Diff
Right Front Upper Control arm and ball joint replaced.

 

[Number4]

The 2002's seem to have lots of issues with their 4x4 brain. Not sure how to test it.

 

[rstark]

That's what I've read. Its a great truck in many ways, but also has tons of bugs, too.

Regarding the 4x4, and just to reiterate, it is completely disabled (electronically and physically). The control module is removed. The front driveshaft and front CV axles have been removed.

 

[Sweersa]

Are either of the springs in the front cracked? Not sure if this can cause such an issue, but it's worth a check. Also look at the stabilizer links.

 

[rstark]

I haven't noticed anything wrong with the springs when I've been working on the truck.
I failed to mention that the stabilizer links have also been replaced.
Thanks for the comments, guys. Please keep them coming.

 

[psi2rd]

Tire size?

 

[N1265]

check wheel bearing.

 

[rstark]

I'll back to you on the tire size.

Just had the front right wheel bearing and hub assembly replaced less than 6 months ago. I even did the "shake test" to see if there was any play in it. none.

 

[Number4]

I'll back to you on the tire size.

Just had the front right wheel bearing and hub assembly replaced less than 6 months ago. I even did the "shake test" to see if there was any play in it. none.

The style of bearings we have rarely show any play when bad. A bad bearing will have a deflection of .07".
Grinding noise up front is almost always wheel bearings.

What brand hub did you get?

 

[rstark]

Got it from Autozone. Duralast brand.

I'm a might bit concerned that my mechanic may have never actually replaced it. How could I be for sure?

 

[Tech By Trade]

I would be more worried about your mechanic not torquing it properly. One of the biggest causes of premature failure of hub assemblies is improper torquing.

 

[Number4]

I would be more worried about your mechanic not torquing it properly. One of the biggest causes of premature failure of hub assemblies is improper torquing.

Good point here ^^^. I did order a torque wrench off Amazon that would allow the proper amount of torque. Don't know if all repair shops have one as high, don't know how common this amount of torque is.

 

[rstark]

The mechanic I use is a good one. He is truly top notch. Odd situation though, I would honestly be more concerned that in an effort to save time (or to barter with someone) that he would not replace it and say he did. I hate to have those suspicions, but it's honestly on my mind. Is there a way to make sure it has been replaced. Is there a brand name/date on the part that I could find?

 

[Number4]

Mainly going to be the physical condition that you'll notice. But depending on where you live, the appearance will age differently.

 

[rstark]

How can I determine if the wheel bearing is going bad (besides the noise and shaking it side to side to see if there's any play - you say that may not be the best indicator)?

I don't mind digging into this thing. I've got to find the culprit of this noise. I've got something bad, bad, bad going on and must find it quickly.

A couple of notes about the symptoms. The noise is not there until the truck has been driven for at least a few minutes, then it's there everytime there's a lower speed left hand turn.

Also, during all of the replacement of parts, the noise never really went away. The same noise was present immediately after the mechanic changed the front right wheel bearing and hub assembly - that's part of why I suspect that it never got done.

 

[rstark]

ALSO, to add to the thoughts that my mechanic may not have really replaced it: just a couple of weeks after having at his shop to have that done, I removed the front CV axles. When I went to take the axle nut off, it was as if it had never been removed. The front left came off with normal effort. The front right took me over an hour to remove. I ended up using a 3.5 foot cheater pipe and standing on it to get the nut to budge. Of course, it became cross threaded on the way off. If he had just removed this nut a couple of weeks prior, it shouldn't have been that hard, right?

 

[Number4]

You might contact the shop and just clarify if they replaced the passenger side bearing.

 

[Perana]

That's what I've read. Its a great truck in many ways, but also has tons of bugs, too.

Regarding the 4x4, and just to reiterate, it is completely disabled (electronically and physically). The control module is removed. The front driveshaft and front CV axles have been removed.

might need to reinstall cv ends......the outer ones...the hub nut and splined end hold the hub and bearings in place....?pulls it together ..?

 

[LMHmedchem]

Mainly going to be the physical condition that you'll notice. But depending on where you live, the appearance will age differently.

^^^ this is what you need to look at.

I would look, and take pictures, of both front hubs and one of your rear hubs. I know that involves taking off the calipers and rotors and all of that so it's a bit of a pain. I take everything off my wheels once or twice a year anyway to keep things from rusting together so maybe it's not such a bad idea anyway.

Look at the color and amount of rust on the lug studs. Also look at the ABS sensor cable and the amount of rust on the bolt that holds the sensor to the hub. New hubs often have a black coating on the lug studs. This is long gone on the original hubs, so you should see a difference between original lugs and any replaced lugs. The bolt that holds the ABS sensor also has a black anti-corrosion coating, so that would be the same. The new ABS sensor cable may look different than the originals (different color, etc). In general, you are looking for a difference between the two front hubs, or a lack of difference between the front and rear.

The fact that it was very difficult to get the axle nut off is suspicious. I do think that it should not have been that hard to get it off if it had been off in the last year or so. After two years, maybe it wouldn't make much difference.

After you have checked everything out, use a wire brush wheel on a drill and a screwdriver and hammer to clean off all of the loose rust and large rust flakes from the dust shield, knuckle, and hub before you put everything back together. Also use the wire brush wheel on the inside of your wheel where it contacts the hat of the rotor. A thin layer of anti-seize on the face of the hub and the inside of the wheel will make your life simpler in the future. Around here, if you don't use anti-seize you will likely need a hydraulic tool to get your wheel and rotor off the next time. Keep the anti-seize off of the lug studs.

If rust isn't an issue where you live, a) you are very lucky, b) you might not want to bother.

LMHmedchem