Heavily corroded axle threads, trying to remove wheel bearing, Need help! (Pic Incl.)

[Foo]

So here's the deal, I have a front drivers side wheel bearing going bad. I've replaced the passenger side one some time back.

The issue is the threads on the axle are so corroded I'm not sure just what to do. The picture was taken after I used a wire brush on a drill to remove any "rust".

So, do I just take an impact to the axle nut and hope it comes off and goes back on? Do I try and chase what the threads are left? or do I end up replacing the axle or half-shaft (whatever its actual name is)?

Looking for some first hand experience here... I need to replace the bearing badly, it's not safe for my family. :thumbdwn:

Thanks in advance.

 

[shucker1]

You could possible get it off using an impact gun.

I seriously doubt it will ever go back on again and be safe to drive.

I would count on replacing the half shaft.

Sorry.

Chris

 

[Bobmbx]

before you go at it with an impact wrench, heat it up with a torch (smoking hot), and then try some slow torque with a long cheater bar. You can control the force better.

But yeah, you're in for a new shaft.

 

[Number4]

Try using an angle grinder, as close to the nut as possible, and cut off the snout.
If you can cut it off, the nut should back off easier. Then, as others have mentioned, get a new axle.

 

[drdoom]

Just run it off with the impact. Then see what's left. Probably fine, but with the precious cargo, as others have said, replace the half shaft. Best wishes.
Doc

 

[boominXplorer]

Just run it off with the impact. Then see what's left. Probably fine, but with the precious cargo, as others have said, replace the half shaft. Best wishes.
Doc

^^^^Exactly what I would do. If you don't have an impact and it starts binding up hard with a breaker bar then I would tighten it back up and try to cut it as close as you can to the nut with a grinder. It would take a least 3 sawzall blades to get though it as its very hard steel.

 

[Foo]

Yeah, I kinda figured I was out of luck on this one. I needed to get a decent impact and compressor anyway. The angle grinder is ready to go though...

So the only other questions I have are is there anything holding the CV shaft in the front differential, like a c-clip? Or can I just knock it out with a pry bar/mallet?

And are these torque specs correct:

Spindle nut, 30mm, 184ft-lbs
Hub bolts, 15mm, 83ft-lbs
Upper Ball joint, 18/19mm, 38ft-lbs or 90ft-lbs?
Caliper, 14mm, 25ft-lbs
Caliper bracket, 18mm, 100ft-lbs
Sway bar end link: 15mm, bottom:16mm (? Ft-lbs)

Upper control arm: 111ft-lbs

This is for a 2003 4WD V6.

Thanks for the help so far folks.

 

[shucker1]

CV Shaft should pop right out. But it has been a long time. Others here will know for sure.

Only older Subaru's have a roll pin that holds the shaft in. That design was a total turd to work on.

Try not to tear up the front seal if you put anything behind it to pop it out.

When I was doing automotive work professionally I had an attachment for a slide hammer that was built like a big C that would lock in behind inner tulip of the shaft. It made life easy.

You may be able to rent one from Auto Zone.

 

[NotAFordGuy]

When I took my first look at the axle nut on my 03 Eddie, I thought the same thing as you. "WOW, I'm NEVER going to get that off." Mine looked just as bad, if not worse. DON'T CUT ANYTHING!

I stuck a small pointed chisel into the venting on my rotor and rolled it around until it came to a stop against my caliper bracket. I then placed the axle nut socket on a 1/2" breaker bar and prepared for the worst....I braced myself, I put a little, then more force on the breaker bar...and was AMAZED when I broke the torque seal loose and spun the nut off to reveal perfectly preserved threads underneath the nut. I replaced my front bearing hub and spun the old axle nut right back on the factory axle. When I was done torqueing the axle nut down, it looked EXACTLY as it did when I first took that disheartening look and said "What am I gonna do?"

There's threads under that nut. Use them.

 

[mmasire88]

I noticed this on my truck the other day! The snout is so rusty it's flaking apart. when I have to replace a bearing/axle it's going to be a huge pain!

 

[Foo]

Thanks for the suggestion shucker, I went to autozone and rented the slide hammer with a "fwd axle puller" attachment (just looks like a big C) and a torque wrench (mine only goes to 150lbs/ft. For $174.

I also went to harbor freight and picked up a decent compressor and good impact. 3/8" hose & fittings.

I ordered all my parts (cv shaft assembly, hub assembly, stabilizer bar link, stabilizer bar bushings from rock auto for $192 shipped moog & cardone parts.

I'm going to attempt to get the spindle nut off first, and check the threads out. I'm likely going to replace the CV shaft anyway now even if the threads are fine (120k miles), it seems it will be a lot easier to change the wheel hub assembly without the cv shaft in the way, I'll likely be able to use my impact on those horrible rear three bolts.

This video was a good help too:

http://youtu.be/xKS6ISwPS9I

I noticed in his video some of torque specs seemed off on a few items, anyone have any comments about that?

I'll be sure to post up my results.

 

[808hawn]

This is from my service manual '03 Explorer:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/133144952@N03/749k97

 

[Foo]

This is from my service manual '03 Explorer:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/133144952@N03/20378411992/in/datetaken/

Only getting the yahoo login screen at this link.

 

[Foo]

Well seeing the picture now, but it appears to be for the rear. I'm needing the front.

 

[808hawn]

Sorry about that. This is the link for the information for the front.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/133144952@N03/7PJ4wp

 

[Foo]

Alright guys, the job is done:

The spindle nut came right off with a hand torch and a harbor freight 1/2" impact + harbor freight 10 gallon, 2.5HP compressor with zero issues.

The threads under the nut were fine and could have been reused, however, since I had all ready bought all the parts I went ahead and replaced the CV shaft assembly, sway bar end link, sway bar bushings, and wheel hub assembly.

Having the CV shaft assembly out of the way allowed me change the wheel hub assembly using my impact, which made everything SO much easier.

The only problem I had was at first the CV shaft would pop loose but I could feel it getting stuck on something (the circlip) in the differential so it wouldn't completely pop out. I eventually had to knock the hub end out of the hub and finagle the cv shaft to get it straight so I could knock it straight out with the slide hammer. I unfortunately wasted an hour or so getting all the bolts out of the front diff cover to see if there was a way of getting the circlip off or not from inside...broke one bolt going back in on the diff cover which I ended up not removing anyway.

Reassembly was a breeze.