Help Broke Bottom Shock stud!!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Help Broke Bottom Shock stud!!!

69Explorer69

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December 20, 2010
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City, State
Hagerstown MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT 4x4 4dr
Hello all its me again but this time i have a big problem...I was trying to take my shock off from the bottom bolt and the hole stud BROKE!! What is the easy way to get this damn thing out????I only have 1 day to fix this
 



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They make a repair kit or you can replace the radius arm.
 






Grind the end flat, knock it out with a hammer and a punch. Dorman sells a replacement shock mount kit for $10.

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When it happened to me I drilled the hole out & used a long grade 8 bolt through the RA, mounted the shock to the bolt & put a lock nut on the other side to hold the shock in place. Was pretty sturdy. Never had an problem.
Been a long time though I don't remember what size it was.
 






if i use a long grade 8 bolt and a locking nut do i have to worrie about pulling the bottom of the shock to close to the radius arm?Does the shock have to stay at a certain angle?
 






I used a washer on each side of the RA. Then another before the nut. The angle was fine. The repair kits were not around when I broke mine so that may be a better route now.
 












Napa had them when I broke mine, left side on both Exploders
 






Just so you know, I bought that exact Dorman bolt kit part when I replaced my shocks a month ago. Had the same problem - the bolt snapped. Drilled and chiseled it out. Obviously, it's only been a month, but the bolt kit seems to be holding up well, no issues.
 






ok finally i found some i got 4 of them just in case it ever happens again..i swear i had to drive over 30 miles just to get them..All the Car Quest stores,Napa,Auto Zone,Advance all of them had none.All of there answers was "I can have them by tomorrow" and my answer was "i am SOL i need them today".By the way i ended up finding them at "Salivo Auto Parts" sounds like something from Mexico and they were only 4.99 each best 20.00 bucks i could every spend in my life..

But now heres my problem i have a broken stud sticking out my radius arm laughing at me because i went to hook my grinder up and went to turn it on and poof and follows a burning smell..just my luck...i broke out the hand tourch and tried to heat it up to see if i could turn it out but no luck..now i am to the point were i have access to Liquid Oxygen and propone which makes for one hell of a tourch...Can i just take a detail tourch and burn the fu**er out,as long as i dont make a too big of a hole.THat brings me to the fact that the replacement stud has threads on both sides with the nutz.do i just stick one end in the hole and stick the nut on the other side and then stick the shock on the stud?Or do i have to thread this damn thing into the thread?

does the old one thread on there?:(
 






ok finally i found some i got 4 of them just in case it ever happens again..i swear i had to drive over 30 miles just to get them..All the Car Quest stores,Napa,Auto Zone,Advance all of them had none.All of there answers was "I can have them by tomorrow" and my answer was "i am SOL i need them today".By the way i ended up finding them at "Salivo Auto Parts" sounds like something from Mexico and they were only 4.99 each best 20.00 bucks i could every spend in my life..

But now heres my problem i have a broken stud sticking out my radius arm laughing at me because i went to hook my grinder up and went to turn it on and poof and follows a burning smell..just my luck...i broke out the hand tourch and tried to heat it up to see if i could turn it out but no luck..now i am to the point were i have access to Liquid Oxygen and propone which makes for one hell of a tourch...Can i just take a detail tourch and burn the fu**er out,as long as i dont make a too big of a hole.THat brings me to the fact that the replacement stud has threads on both sides with the nutz.do i just stick one end in the hole and stick the nut on the other side and then stick the shock on the stud?Or do i have to thread this damn thing into the thread?

does the old one thread on there?:(

The old one is just pressed in. The new one is just pushed through with the nut holding it onto the RA and the other nut holds the shock onto the stud...

I'm not so sure about using a hot torch on that (cutting it out). That just seems like you'll make the hole bigger..

~Mark
 






Drill it out, at least hog out some of the stud, try to knock it out? If you can drill a good size hole in it, and get a drift punch in the hole, you might be able to drive it out without turning it into a rivet. I think heat is going to be tricky. If a part has a hole in it, and you heat it, does the hole get smaller or larger? Rent a grinder? You might be able to get a grinding stone for a drill if you have a drill. Hacksaw or sawzall and cut it flush and knock it out?

Hard to get a good solution without knowing your toolbox... sorry
 






i am gonna to try to drill it out tomorrow when the sun comes up..i live in an apartment complex and the people here complain about every little thing since i have had my truck on the road i have had many complants..lol

i tried using a detail tourch and my wife freaked out because of it being close to the engine..i mean she went nuts and you would think i would be the one scared to blow up my truck..i guess i will just keep going up on the sizes of the drill bits untill i get the hole to fit the new stud..

Could i use Carbine bits to drill it out?I wish i knew what strenth of metal it was...
 






Carbide bits are brittle, can be an issue handheld drilling. If you snap a bit off in the stud, you are in a whole new world of problem. TiN (yellow tint) would be better, or just plain old black oxide. You are smart to start small and go progressively larger. Take it slow so you don't burn a bit, it might be helpful to dip the bit in a little oil every now and then. Best of luck!
 






You definitely want to cut it off flush before you start drilling. Drill a pilot hole in the center, than have at it with a bigger bit. Once you have most of the "Meat" drilled out it should knock out easy with a drift and mini sledge.
 






You definitely want to cut it off flush before you start drilling. Drill a pilot hole in the center, than have at it with a bigger bit. Once you have most of the "Meat" drilled out it should knock out easy with a drift and mini sledge.

Pretty much what a dentist did to one of my molars a few days ago, :D
 






Pretty much what a dentist did to one of my molars a few days ago, :D

Ouch :(

Hate to dredge up a subject that's been pretty much beaten to death (no pun intended!), but I'll give you guys one wild guess on what "I" had to deal with yesterday?!?!

Lest everyone thinks this is another "sameazdat" post, my experience was just a little bit different. I'd noticed a rattle coming from the front end and when I checked it out, I discovered that the bottom of the shock was hanging in empty space. I thought that the lower shock mount had broken, but surprise, surprise! The back-end of the stud was as clean as a whistle, showing no sign of breakage.

The stud just plain came out of the radius arm.

I took a flat washer and put it on the stud, then ran the stud in from the back-side and managed to re-mount the shock, but I'm pretty sure that's just a temporary fix. Thanks to this thread (and others), I now know what part to get to make the fix more permanent. :)

Profound philosophical question though - what on earth possessed Ford to just press-fit that mount?? Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I'd think that on a potentially off-road vehicle, they'd want something a little "beefier".

Lee
 






Can someone take a pic of how these replacement mounts are installed? I will be replacing my shocks & bought them in case the mounts sheer off.
 






Anyone? I'm going to be doing my shocks sat morning. Would be helpful to know how these replacement studs go on beforehand if the stock ones break.
 



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You definitely want to cut it off flush before you start drilling. Drill a pilot hole in the center, than have at it with a bigger bit. Once you have most of the "Meat" drilled out it should knock out easy with a drift and mini sledge.
After that it's a simple bolt on application with the kit.
 






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