Help on base stereo upgrade

[peterk9]

........................................................................

Note: My vehicle is a base model 2012 Explorer with the 6 speaker system.

And a crappy subwoofer box.

Peter

 

[Pwerdbybeard]

So, here's an update:

I ended up purchasing the Metra Dash kit from Crutchfield for a couple reasons. I was getting a lot of misinformation from the other types of dash conversion kits. For one, it was difficult to find where to buy it from, though it did turn up on Amazon (Canada for me). Though, trying to figure out if the deck had Android Auto was nearly impossible. You could get it (supposedly) as an add-on from various sites, and even as a separate purchase from Amazon. But they ended up emailing me and saying it was no longer possible with the Android 9.0 units. It was all too much of a headache, not to mention that those units were $700-$800.

The results first: I got the unit all installed successfully. It works great, all the buttons and HVAC and everything, even the steering wheel control controls. The instruction were a tad confusing at times but I got it to work in the end. I am satisfied enough with the look and also with having the HVAC controls ported to a touch screen in a new location. This bothered me a lot when looking at which options to go with, not now, it's no issue at all. I'd insert a pic but I don't wanna deal with any pic upload link bizness.


Speaker upgrade:

I DIYed the **** out of this part. First off, plan to struggle mightily with door panel removal. For me, it was very difficult and you definitely need to purchase a special door and trim removal kit. Still, I managed to break about 7 of the little clips that hold on door panels. Make sure to watch the youtube videos on how to do that.

I put new 6x9s in the front. Instead of buying the brackets and wire harnesses you need (which Crutchfield makes quite easy to purchase) I ended up modifying the existing speaker/bracket combos. I just cut em up and then glued new speakers to the bracket. then I soldered wires together. Seems to work.

However, I recommend NOT messing with the front door tweeters. I tried to change those out and for some reason, the new ones sounded terrible and I think messed up the ratio of the signal or whatever.

Back speakers I put in a couple of round 6.5"ers with the same method, however, I feel like I should have put in 6x9s. There's enough space for sure, but for that you would definitely need to purchase the proper brackets.

Sub woofer:

I built a DIY (crappy) sub box that fits just so in the cavity behind the rear seats. With precision measurements (lol) you can JUST get a 12" sub in there. However, I suspect my sealed box is far smaller than recommended. Still, seems to work well enough for my purposes.

Note that the best way to get amp power cables are through a grommet right under the driver side area, below your left foot. I saw a video on Youtube and it was bang on. If you thought going through the glove box was the route, i definitely recommend finding the video that shows you how to go through the driver side floor grommet!

That's about it! My deck works, speakers and sub work, though, I do now have a dash warning for "check battery system" when I have the sub on with accessory mode only. Don't know if that's due to a mistake on my part, or a natural result of drawing lots of power when the car isn't running.

Note: My vehicle is a base model 2012 Explorer with the 6 speaker system.

Nicely done!

There is a nice JL Audio stealth box that goes in that area.. Its for a 10 inch but it hits hard from what I've heard.

As for your battery code, how old is your battery? With the new added components, might want to consider upgrading it.

 

[Neesh1010]

Nicely done!

There is a nice JL Audio stealth box that goes in that area.. Its for a 10 inch but it hits hard from what I've heard.

As for your battery code, how old is your battery? With the new added components, might want to consider upgrading it.

I will indeed look into the battery. As far as I could tell, the JL stealthboxes were for the hatch area, built into the same area whre the factory subs would go. REgardless, they are ridiculously expensive! So, outta the question for me.

 

[Pwerdbybeard]

I will indeed look into the battery. As far as I could tell, the JL stealthboxes were for the hatch area, built into the same area whre the factory subs would go. REgardless, they are ridiculously expensive! So, outta the question for me.

HA, I missed that part about where you installed it lol Yeah, they are super high priced. Its a good spot to consider your next custom box tho IMO.

 

[DHG2496]

I will indeed look into the battery. As far as I could tell, the JL stealthboxes were for the hatch area, built into the same area whre the factory subs would go. REgardless, they are ridiculously expensive! So, outta the question for me.

Do you have any pics of your sub box? I have a police unit with a similar radio and would be interested in possibly holding something for the rear down the road. I now have third row seats so I would need a similar box for mine too and I don’t have any carpet so why not do this for the rear floor!

 

[Neesh1010]

Do you have any pics of your sub box? I have a police unit with a similar radio and would be interested in possibly holding something for the rear down the road. I now have third row seats so I would need a similar box for mine too and I don’t have any carpet so why not do this for the rear floor!

I do have pics but no time to figure out how to to host/share them.

The best I can do is assure you that you can built one that fits in the floor space behind the 2nd row seats that will just barely fit a 12" sub, if you wanted a 12. The sub must be placed right in the middle, slightly angled downward, about level with the height of the plateau that the hinges are on, or just a bit higher actually. That leaves about 3/4 of an inch space above the floor. I used 3/4 MDF so I even had to shave out a bit off the bottom where the speaker magnet would be. Using half inch would probably do the trick. THen it's just a matter of building the box to the shape of the floor there. I just made a hasty template with cardboard and the cut the pieces to spec, and then trimmed where needed. It actually turned out really good.

 

[Nibroc99]

I do have pics but no time to figure out how to to host/share them.

The best I can do is assure you that you can built one that fits in the floor space behind the 2nd row seats that will just barely fit a 12" sub, if you wanted a 12. The sub must be placed right in the middle, slightly angled downward, about level with the height of the plateau that the hinges are on, or just a bit higher actually. That leaves about 3/4 of an inch space above the floor. I used 3/4 MDF so I even had to shave out a bit off the bottom where the speaker magnet would be. Using half inch would probably do the trick. THen it's just a matter of building the box to the shape of the floor there. I just made a hasty template with cardboard and the cut the pieces to spec, and then trimmed where needed. It actually turned out really good.

Heya! I've got a 2013 Base Police Interceptor Utility and wanted to do similar upgrades to you, sans the subwoofer. Did you end up adding an amp to the 6 speakers? Or did you only upgrade the speakers themselves? Do you find that they actually sound better than the factory speakers?

Wish I could do a Bose audio upgrade to match the audio setup in my dad's Impala LTZ or his Avalanche Black Diamond Edition with the 5.2-channel surround Bose system!

 

[Neesh1010]

Heya! I've got a 2013 Base Police Interceptor Utility and wanted to do similar upgrades to you, sans the subwoofer. Did you end up adding an amp to the 6 speakers? Or did you only upgrade the speakers themselves? Do you find that they actually sound better than the factory speakers?

Wish I could do a Bose audio upgrade to match the audio setup in my dad's Impala LTZ or his Avalanche Black Diamond Edition with the 5.2-channel surround Bose system!

I did not add a separate amp and just relied on the amp in the deck that I installed. Even though I used cheaper Amazon speakers, I feel that yes, they definitely sound much better. Much crisper, more different channels with the front 6x9s being 4-channel and the back 6.5" being 3 channels. The one thing I didn't do was change out the tweeters. I felt there was no need and actually, when I did try to initially, somehow I felt it messed up the overall sound.

While I feel that this set-up is certainly better than stock, if you're going to deal with this, you might as well going with a dedicated amp. It will only improve things.

 

[Ntrain]

So, here's an update:

I ended up purchasing the Metra Dash kit from Crutchfield for a couple reasons. I was getting a lot of misinformation from the other types of dash conversion kits. For one, it was difficult to find where to buy it from, though it did turn up on Amazon (Canada for me). Though, trying to figure out if the deck had Android Auto was nearly impossible. You could get it (supposedly) as an add-on from various sites, and even as a separate purchase from Amazon. But they ended up emailing me and saying it was no longer possible with the Android 9.0 units. It was all too much of a headache, not to mention that those units were $700-$800.

The results first: I got the unit all installed successfully. It works great, all the buttons and HVAC and everything, even the steering wheel control controls. The instruction were a tad confusing at times but I got it to work in the end. I am satisfied enough with the look and also with having the HVAC controls ported to a touch screen in a new location. This bothered me a lot when looking at which options to go with, not now, it's no issue at all. I'd insert a pic but I don't wanna deal with any pic upload link bizness.


Speaker upgrade:

I DIYed the **** out of this part. First off, plan to struggle mightily with door panel removal. For me, it was very difficult and you definitely need to purchase a special door and trim removal kit. Still, I managed to break about 7 of the little clips that hold on door panels. Make sure to watch the youtube videos on how to do that.

I put new 6x9s in the front. Instead of buying the brackets and wire harnesses you need (which Crutchfield makes quite easy to purchase) I ended up modifying the existing speaker/bracket combos. I just cut em up and then glued new speakers to the bracket. then I soldered wires together. Seems to work.

However, I recommend NOT messing with the front door tweeters. I tried to change those out and for some reason, the new ones sounded terrible and I think messed up the ratio of the signal or whatever.

Back speakers I put in a couple of round 6.5"ers with the same method, however, I feel like I should have put in 6x9s. There's enough space for sure, but for that you would definitely need to purchase the proper brackets.

Sub woofer:

I built a DIY (crappy) sub box that fits just so in the cavity behind the rear seats. With precision measurements (lol) you can JUST get a 12" sub in there. However, I suspect my sealed box is far smaller than recommended. Still, seems to work well enough for my purposes.

Note that the best way to get amp power cables are through a grommet right under the driver side area, below your left foot. I saw a video on Youtube and it was bang on. If you thought going through the glove box was the route, i definitely recommend finding the video that shows you how to go through the driver side floor grommet!

That's about it! My deck works, speakers and sub work, though, I do now have a dash warning for "check battery system" when I have the sub on with accessory mode only. Don't know if that's due to a mistake on my part, or a natural result of drawing lots of power when the car isn't running.

Note: My vehicle is a base model 2012 Explorer with the 6 speaker system.

Which 6x9's did you install in the front doors?

 

[Volksjager]

Which 6x9's did you install in the front doors?

I used
Metra 82-5602 6X9" Speaker... Amazon.com: Metra 82-5602 6X9" Speaker Adapter for Ford Explorer 2011-Up,Black: Car Electronics
With
Rockford Fosgate R169X3 Prime 6”... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVG4/?tag=serious-20

 

[Wtaylor2007]

Help on base stereo upgrade

Hi all, I've search around and really can't find advice on my scenario. I have a 2011 Base Explorer with the base stereo, that's 6 speakers and no sub. I want a better system but it's been hard to find out details and answer my questions. I'd like to make everything as cheap as possible so I've first been investigating not changing the stock stereo.

- Does anyone know the power output of the stock stereo to the stock speakers? I.e., should I get a 4-channel amp to power the stock speakers?
- Does anyone know the power handling on the stock speakers? I.e., should I swap out the stock speakers for some Pyle Amazon specials?
- Does the stock stereo have an input for a subwoofer? I.e., I have a 12 sub and amp that I plan to install somehow. Can it just connect to the stock stereo?

If I end up having to swap out the stereo, I believe there is only one option: This full dash kit here:Metra 99-5847CH Dash and Wiring Kit. This kit takes away all the knobs and buttons (which, unfortunately, I kind of like) and ports the temp controls and such to a touchscreen near the top of the kit, while putting your double din down lower.

- Has anyone done this conversion? How does it work? Is it good or bad?
- Further, in this scenario, do aftermarket head units that bill themselves as 50w x4 peak power have enough power to make the 4 (or 6 I guess) car speakers sound good? Or should I also consider installing 4-channel amp to power the speakers? (in addition to the amp I have for my sub, which, as far as I can tell, can only power one speaker.

Even with buying cheap speakers and amps, this whole deal, with the kit, would be getting up there in cost. Dang dash kit costs like $450 Canadian.

I appreciate any input/comments/stories that anyone might have on Base stereo upgrads of any kind.

I have the 9 speaker system on my XLT but want more power!!!!

i am looking into this kit. #7 kicker plug and play amp

2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer Model 4 OR 8 Inch Screen NON Amplified Base Model Radio Plug 'n Play Audio Harnesses: Kits

THIS LISTING IS FOR MY PLUG & PLAY AUDIO UPGRADE KITS FOR THIS VEHICLE . I OFFER MANY DIFFERENT KITS FOR ADDING A SUB , ADDING A 4 CHANNEL AMP OR ADDING A DSP AND OR FULL SYSTEM ETC . AS WELL AS MY PLUG & PLAY KICKER AND PIONEER 4 CHANNEL AMPS . I ALSO OFFER AUDIOCONTROL PRODUCTS THAT COME...

plugnplaykits.com

 

[Volksjager]

Amplifier adapter interface for 4.2 screens

 

[Mbrooks420]

For anyone else finding this on a search, skip the 6x9 idea (6x9s aren’t as good as a round speakers).

Skip the subwoofer that’s too big for the enclosure, it’ll sound worse than the smaller (and cheaper) version of the speaker. If you’re stuck with a small box get a subwoofer specifically made for a small enclosure.

If you’re going to amp any door speakers, you’re going to need to buy quality speakers. Amplifying some Pyle garbage( c’mon it’s advertised as a pile. Take a guess at what the pile is.)

Skip the Tesla style decks.

 

[Nibroc99]

I agree with everything you said. Here's my setup now and it works perfectly, retaining the factory head unit and steering wheel controls etc, in my 2013 FPIU Base without sync:

Line-Out Converter: AudioControl LC2i Pro. Fits right on top of the factory head unit! Has both a full-range output and a subwoofer output that puts out all frequencies below 1000Hz.) I tied this into the front speaker outputs from the back of the radio. I was glad to find that there is only one output for.the whole front door, and then the 6x9 in each door has a crossover built-in which then powers the factory tweeters. I was able to just use the factory speaker wire rather than running my own through the door hinge wire harness. LC2i Pro on Amazon

Amp: Skar Audio RP-75.4AB 500 Watts RMS Full-Range Class A/B (I'm only using the front channels, so all of the power from the amp is split between the two front doors - I'm able to send 250 watts RMS to each door basically. I don't have 3rd row seating so it does fill the whole car with sound, zero complaints from rear passengers! Mounted under the passenger seat because this amp is pretty big at 19.5 x 7 x 3 inches) Link to Skar amp on Amazon (Amp-azon perhaps? Lol)

Wiring: Stinger SK6681 8-Gauge 6000-Series Complete Amplifier Installation Kit, Blue. It's hard to find true-to-size high quality oxygen-free copper nowadays, and this is a good kit, albeit slightly more pricey. Link to wiring kit on Amazon

Door speakers: Skar Audio SPX-65C 6.5" 2-Way High Performance Component Speaker System (4 ohm) This is a 1" neodymium tweeter and a 6.5" mid-woofer with a passive crossover, two of each. Set in total is rated for 400 watts peak, 200 watts RMS, per side. I used a converter made for specifically the 5th (and 6th I think) gen 6x9s that converts to 6.5" circle. I took a risk and cut holes in the grille where the factory tweeters used to be to mount the new tweeters, and it looks pretty awesome actually!(image of tweeter) - Link to speaker kit

6x9 to 6.5/6.75" converter made specifically for the 5th gen front doors: Link to Crutchfield for converter

Subwoofer: Skar Audio Single 8" 700 Watt SDR Series Complete Subwoofer Package with Vented Enclosure and Amplifier (Bought a pre-made kit to save time and money, but damn it really bumps for an 8"). This kit comes pre-insralled in a properly-sized loaded enclosure and sounds fantastic. The 10" is $100 more, and I couldn't justify spending that much more at the time, but damn it is a good subwoofer for it's 8" size! This route meant I didn't have to worry about the wrong size amp or enclosure or even wiring since it comes with their own wiring. I was even able to use the rear power point of the FPIU to power the sub amp which was great. That power point is rated for 100 amps if you have it, so remember to inly use up to 75-80 amps for good measure just in case. Link to the sub: Link to subwoofer on Amazon

If anybody has any questions at all, please let me know! This setup sounds fantastic compared to the factory system. I'm considering adding another set of 6.5" cones to the back doors for a little more mid-bass but since I have the police model I'd have to cut holes in the rear door panels and mount a grille (it's a flat piece of plastic with no speaker grille right now) So that probably won't happen haha. Cheers.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think you’d have to bridge that amp to get the full power to two channels. Just using two channels only doesn’t typically use cal the amps wattage.

 

[Nibroc99]

I think you’d have to bridge that amp to get the full power to two channels. Just using two channels only doesn’t typically use cal the amps wattage.

It says "bridged" on the outputs, so I assumed they were already auto-bridged internally. Maybe I should just try bridging them and see what happens lol.

 

[Nibroc99]

I think you’d have to bridge that amp to get the full power to two channels. Just using two channels only doesn’t typically use cal the amps wattage.

Here is where it says "bridged." I am using channels one and two for the front speakers.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I wouldn’t recommend it. If the terminals say bridged, you should be good to go. I’ve heard pretty good things about Skar. I was thinking about giving them a try for my subwoofer amp. Hard to beat their watts per dollar. Currently running a US Zed made Planet Audio that’s not really meant to drive a sub, although it’s been doing it over 15 years.

 

[Volksjager]

so i just finished the amp and sub install for my 2017 PIU with Sync. i used the Amplifier adapter interface for 4.2 screens i got from ebay. couldn't find a good 12v wire for the remote wire on the adaptor. ended up using the accessory power. it kicks off after 10 mins or so.

 

[Mrshepherd51]

I agree with you on the search. I have 2015 with the 9 speaker, non-sony , no subwoofer model and did my own searches here and none applied to me. I found out more on Crutchfield, using their "what fits my vehicle" then went about purchasing what i wanted to add knowing it would fit.
I did not add and amp to power all the speakers, but i did replace all my speakers and added a sub-woofer and amp to power it. I wish i could be more help.....

I have 2013 explore base with the stock radio I went aftermarket with a double din pioneer radio. After buying the dash kit and all the wiring which was hella expensive I decided to put the factory radio back in after awhile because I lost my remote start feature and I really loved that, but I still have my 2 amps a 4 channel on all the inside factory speakers and a mono block for the 12inch sub in a pro box. And lemme tell u it Bangs really hard and sounds good ppl don’t believe me when I tell them the 4 channel amp is running factory speakers. But the dash kit and all the wiring Thanks