How to: How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

[antsmands]

Changed both front hub/bearing assemblies on my 2003 Exp Sport yesterday. Not too bad of a job using the posts by SyberTiger as a guide. Using the spindle removal tool was a must to gaining easy access to the 3 hub retainer bolts. The most difficult part of the operation was removal of the hub as I forgot about the slide hammer until I actually needed it. After a few bangs to the old assembly to try and loosed it I finally used a flat scraper to cut the sealant which was helping to hold it tight and then successively pry bars until I finally got them loose. Some minor scratches to the hub retainer but nothing significant. I used antiseize on the assemblies as I installed them as there was also some corrosion due to moisture infiltration.

Glad I did the job as the right bearing was quite loose and growling and the left bearing was really getting hot as the spindle showed signs of heat load. I will have to keep my eye on this and replace the spindle if it shows signs of weakness from the previous bad bearing.

Front bearing noise is gone and the truck ride much more smooth and quiet. Now for the rears!

Thanks to all who posted in this tread. This was a big help!

 

[Limited02]

Changed both today and it was easy peasy. Changed one about two years ago and replaced the wrong one, so I swapped the old "good" one to the bad side. They both have been making some noise latley so I figured it's time to do it again. All I do is take the axle nut off, remove the tire, brake setup, rotor and then remove the three bolts holding the hub. Remove old hub and reinstall everything. I've never had to use a pulley and I find this job fairly simple, just takes a little time. Now the rear wheel bearings are a PITA...

 

[TimB]

grinder worked for me

I did both of my hubs today. I used the grinder technique for the 3 bolts. As people have said a 4 1/2 in grinder won't cut all the way thru the bolts. The craftsman 15mm wrench for the two bottom bolts and the wobble extension for the top bolt with a 12" piece of 1" black gas pipe for leverage. I removed all items, then sprayed the bolts with PB blaster, used a little wire brush to clean the exposed end of the bolts. Then started each bolt. Don't unscrew very much, just start them. Then use the grinder to cut into the old hub and thru as much of the bolt as possible. Then unscrew the bolts a 1/2 turn and cut the rest of the bolt. After cutting the bolts they seem to back out easy.

next hard part was getting the hub to break free. You can beat one side with a mini sledge and I cut a 2x4 into about a 6" piece, the cut one end into a wedge, then cut off the point. Use this wegde with the mini sledge hammer to wedge the other side. I had to recut the wegde a few time to make it work correctly.

hope this helps!

Thanks to OP and all helpful tips. Without this thread I don't think I would have attemted this repair.

 

[hardtarge]

Used this thread for the my front end this last January.

Lessons learned. Offset wrench !! very much worth the money.
Floor jack wrench method, slow but works.

banging the bearing out. Look at the edge of your hub flange where wheel studs are you should see a bevel. Hit the bevel --\ Swing your maul/hammer at a right angle to the axle/bearing you'll push the bearing out a little with each blow.

 

[Dunwood]

Bolts!

With all the discussions about the bearing bolts (as opposed to the caliper bolts), there is only ONE posted image of the bolts (post #247) AND no bolt sizing! Here in Los Angeles I'm close to two fantastic bolt suppliers and a very good automotive machine shop. It would be nice to know the sizing of the knuckle/bearing bolts and do some pre-shopping which doesn't include the dealer. I'll report back if someone can post the sizing and length of those bolts.

 

[Limited02]

With all the discussions about the bearing bolts (as opposed to the caliper bolts), there is only ONE posted image of the bolts (post #247) AND no bolt sizing! Here in Los Angeles I'm close to two fantastic bolt suppliers and a very good automotive machine shop. It would be nice to know the sizing of the knuckle/bearing bolts and do some pre-shopping which doesn't include the dealer. I'll report back if someone can post the sizing and length of those bolts.

Most wheelbearing kits you buy have all the bolts included, so there is no need to shop around.

 

[Dunwood]

I understand the Timkin units don't come with the 3 major grade 10.4 bolts.....of course they are $50.00 less per unit than the Motorcraft or SKF units.

 

[HiImBrian]

I understand the Timkin units don't come with the 3 major grade 10.4 bolts.....of course they are $50.00 less per unit than the Motorcraft or SKF units.

I bought the Timken hub assembly on rockauto and just used the same bolts I took out. They were still in great shape....

 

[Dunwood]

For those needing new hub to knuckle bolts the specs are as follows:

The bolts are grade 10.9 or higher.
12mm 1.75x60mm long. There is a 25mm shoulder or grip length (the non-threaded part of the fastener). 12mm is thread size. 1.75 the thread pitch. The bolts are 60mm long not counting the head (proper way to measure the length of a bolt).

My local hardware store carries this bolt with a 19mm head, which is probably too big for a 4WD axle clearance. For my 2WD its fine, as there is no axle to clear.

These are available at Lovelady Hardware in Torrance CA for $2.50 each. A far cry from the $15.00 dealer item.

 

[Limited02]

Wrong pics in wrong thread, meant for upper ball joints

 

[SyberTiger]

Well, you can see from post #245 in this thread I said the following:

I went with SKF wheel bearing hub assemblies. My motivation was to buy a quality American made product that hopefully would out last the cheap Chinese imports. The total cost for two units was $305 delivered. Oddly, these units came with Timken bearings Made in USA...LOL! So you can see that even manufacturers can and will purchase components from their competitors. I didn't go with the Timken assemblies at $245 because I was informed that the Timken assemblies do not include the 5 bolt kit or at least not at the $245 price.

For $305 for two units ($152.50 each) of SKF wheel bearing hub assembiles you get 10 bolts (5 bolts per unit). The Timken kits don't come with the bolts but the SKF kits do which is why I think it is a better deal. If you are going through all the trouble of replacing your wheel bearing hub assembly then the extra $30 (included in the delivered price) for the bolt kit is worth it IMHO. The bolts already have the thread lock stuff on the bolts and they obviously work for 4x4 front ends.

 

[dpierri]

Thanks for all of your tips. I searched for the 30mm socket, ended purchasing a set of deep sockets from Sears with standard sizes up to 1 3/16 which is equal to the 30mm. $55 bucks for the set. A shaft pusher/puller for $40 - best money spent. Two of the bolts came out easy. One I had to use the floor jack to put enough pressure to take it out. About one hour just trying to get that bolt out. To remove the HUB I watched a video of a guy using the power steering as a hydraulic press - my son helped me turn the wheel while I held the ratchet extension against a part of the frame. Little by little it came unstuck. Surprisingly the hub had some sort of silicone or gray caulk all around. Not only did it began to rust, the crap they put on it to glue it made the work harder.
The installation of the new one was so easy, everything fit correctly, the screws went right in and was able to put everything within 30 minutes or less.
I will get a pull hammer next to avoid having to use the power steering and the hull of the car to remove them. I began hearing a rear bearing grinding on the back, but don't know which one. I guess I will need to lift the wheel and hear what is grinding, any tips on how to figure this out?

 

[antsmands]

Hello dpierri;

Before you do anything with the rear bearings you should first add some friction modifier to the rear differential to see if that fixes the problem. I also thought my rear bearing was grinding until I read about this problem on this forum. Kept hearing a grinding sound mostly as I backed up and at take off when the car was cold. Would stop once the car warmed up for the most part. Turns out it was the differential binding up and making the noise. Added the modifier I got from Advanced Auto to the differential and the noise and vibration is gone! Search for this on the forum first. Its a quick fix if this is you problem.

 

[Jasone352]

Hello everyone.

I am planning on tackling this repair on both front wheel assemblies sometime next week. My question to you all is this:

I purchased a timken hub assembly from rockauto.com and from what im reading im assuming it does not come with replacement bolts. I can take the bolt specs dunwood posted to a hardware store and find replacement ones on my own? or should they be purchased from a dealer in a kit?

 

[HiImBrian]

Hello everyone.

I am planning on tackling this repair on both front wheel assemblies sometime next week. My question to you all is this:

I purchased a timken hub assembly from rockauto.com and from what im reading im assuming it does not come with replacement bolts. I can take the bolt specs dunwood posted to a hardware store and find replacement ones on my own? or should they be purchased from a dealer in a kit?

I just used my old bolts as they were in great shape.

The problem the guys up north have is rust from salting the roads in the winter, but down here it's not as much of an issue.

You can pick up replacements from a hardware store but the ones you'll take out are grade 10. Fastenal is the only place around me to get them.

If you scroll back through this thread to the end of June you'll see a few pictures/videos from when I did mine....

 

[angler3]

I used the bolts that came with the no name brand i bought from @#%*& auto when i replaced the front, not rockauto, and the hubs failed early. i purchased the timken set from rock auto and had saved the original bolts from the first replacement and re used them. I have had no issues to date. I'm from the hudson valley, we have plenty of snow and ice! When i did the rear ( more or less same time i did the front the first time ) i did opt for the timken and have had no issues. I used both threads from this forum and they were very well worded and illustrated. I reccommend soaking all the bolts your removing with pb blaster the day before repair. I didnt , had to soak them the day of and the rear were a bit stubborn.

 

[Jasone352]

Alright, I guess I will just wait and see how the bolts look when (or if) I get them out. Hopefully I don't run into any snags, the parts should be here by Thursday and I am heading to Tampa on Saturday. That gives me Thursday evening and Friday after work to get this job done.

 

[angler3]

I had no problems taking off the bolts, one was a little tricky, ( i believe it was the top bolt ) i used a short socket with a swivel extension and pushed the cv joint back a little,that helped. Separating the hub involved a long chisel and a bfh.. i hit it on three different sides of the back of the plate that holds the lug screws ( not sure what its called, ) and it came out. Almost like removing a stuck rotor, same principle. I've read that removing the tie rod end gives you better access, but i didn't find it necessary. Good Luck!

 

[Jasone352]

Alright then. I feel pretty confident ill be able to do this without any significant trouble. Anyone know where I can pick up some of that anti seize crap in bulk? The auto parts store I go to only carries it in tiny packs.

 

[Jasone352]

Oh and for clearing the rust and buildup on the mating surfaces, any reccomendations? I saw the OP used degreaser and a razor.