How long did your Servo Bore "O-Ring Fix" last | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How long did your Servo Bore "O-Ring Fix" last




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Currently looking at the servo O ring fix. I want to understand exactly what the kit does. The O ring doesn't actually go into the bore, but seals the edge of oval bore? After which, the plastic sleeve has the steel shaft glide in it? Mine is 02 limited 4.6. Codes P0741, P0732, P0733, P01703, P1780. Scanned with autel maxidiag
 






I’m not exactly sure what information you are needing. Here is a servo piston with O-rings added and the OEM without. The O-rings do go in the bore, plastic sleeve?
Brad
 

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I’m not exactly sure what information you are needing. Here is a servo piston with O-rings added and the OEM without. The O-rings do go in the bore, plastic sleeve?
Brad
It appeared to me that the new ones from AJ1E superior solutions have some sort of plastic sleeve. Anyhow, if the OEM set up had no sort of seal (o ring), then yes this should work out better. I appreciate the fast reply Transman
 






They refer to it as an assembly sleeve.
It appeared to me that the new ones from AJ1E superior solutions have some sort of plastic sleeve. Anyhow, if the OEM set up had no sort of seal (o ring), then yes this should work out better. I appreciate the fast reply Transman
 






I have never really looked into these, thanks for the site. The plastic sleeve is a sizer for the O-rings that would be removed before assembly into transmission. Wow they are proud of their parts 💰. One tip that might help to keep from clipping the O-ring on installation would be to not remove plastic sizer and put in the freezer (longer the better) and remove when you are ready to install, remove plastic sizer and use transmission fluid, silicone grease or Vaseline and coat the complete assembly and install right away. Good luck
Brad
 






I have never really looked into these, thanks for the site. The plastic sleeve is a sizer for the O-rings that would be removed before assembly into transmission. Wow they are proud of their parts 💰. One tip that might help to keep from clipping the O-ring on installation would be to not remove plastic sizer and put in the freezer (longer the better) and remove when you are ready to install, remove plastic sizer and use transmission fluid, silicone grease or Vaseline and coat the complete assembly and install right away. Good luck
Brad
Thabks. Their video seems to have you profile the edge of the bore. Gonna tear into it tomorrow.
 






It’s a great invention, I had to update my servos at about 75k miles when the tranny started acting up. I’ve got over 50,000 miles on my replacement servos and still no problems, the truck runs and shifts perfectly. ‘02 Mountaineer AWD V6. I did need to change the tranny fluid and filter again after 40k miles (check transmission light came on) but after that it runs fine again. I highly recommend it. It is an easy installation. Just follow the directions and watch the video a few times first. Order all the appropriate parts and tools to make it easier. The plastic sleeve stays in, on the servo, it slides back during installation. It keeps the o-ring in place during the process of sliding the servo shaft into the bore and over the bore groove. The customer service and help is excellent! The inventor and owner will assist you with any questions or guidance. I highly recommend aj1superiorsolutions.
 






Oh and don’t even think of using transman304 suggestions about the freezer And not using the sleeve, it won’t help and most likely will fail. I’ve done a number of these, just follow the directions for success. And make sure you adjust your bands according to directions and change the tranny fluid and filter 100-200 miles after the servos installation.
 






Just got the pan and filter and heat shields off. Fluid dark red, doesnt smell burned a d no debris in pan. Checked bands by turning in a couple turns making sure jam nut wasn't causing center bolt to stop. After a couple turns each band it got tight so I'd say they are good. Backed off a couple turns and tightened jam nut. Will pull exhaust in the morning for access to servos. Sprayed servo cups with penetrating oil till tomorrow.
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate communication.
 






Up to you but there is no need to pull the exhaust for access to the servos, you can work around it just fine
 






You will need the right angle needle nose pliers to get the servo snap rings off, and to put them back on the new servos
 






I use the option #1 in the Step by Step directions and it works great as long as you have the needle nose pliers ( the pliers are also available at Harbor Frieght). With option 1 you can disregard the Converter Disassembly and oxygen sensor cables, etc. You will Only need to remove the lower heat shield and the top heat shield which takes a little bending and finesse to get it out but it does come out (and back in).
The short side of an Allen wrench works best to help slide the servo out if it’s stuck, applying side pressure while slightly prying it out.
 






Is there always a P0775 associated with the bad servo bore? That's a code I dont have. Scanned several times.
 






No, various other codes can be the same problem. I had a P0735 5th gear solenoid
 












I have 184,000 mi. Get P0741, P0732, P0733, P0735, P1703, P1780 codes. OD flashes, and check transmission. Good continuity thru solenoids when checked at firewall conector to removed fuse.
 






Sounds like you need the replacement servos
 






what is the transmission doing while driving? What problems do you have?
 



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These are a couple of tools I used to pull the servos out. Slightly bent Allen wrench with the short end going into the center hole of the servo, and the threaded end of the hook into the servo hole worked well also as it provides some grip on the inside bore.
 

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