How many feet of 1/0 gauge wire do I need for big 3 upgrade?

[2kv8]

I am going to do the big 3 upgrade soon and I need to know how many feet of wire I would need to order for the job. Also if someone could point me in the right direction to find the "big 3 upgrade how to" that would be very helpful.

Just to clarify, I need to replace the Batt (-) to Frame, Batt (-) to Body, and Batt (+) to Alt.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[celly]

Lots of good threads in the archives. Lots of good resources on the www. Tons of them on Google. It's worth a read rather than starting yet another thread on the subject. I spent hours reading up before I tackled it.

I just did the Big 3 a few weeks back and scored about 8' @ $3.40/foot at Knukonceptz.com (that's for their best stuff). I was very impressed with the quality. You can spend less, but you can spend a lot more too. Knu has great deals.

 

[celly]

Tim, I shot you a few PMs. There have been issues with PM notifications on EF if you use Yahoo addresses, just in case you're on Yahoo.

Brad

 

[Nate_V8]

wtf is the big 3?

 

[celly]

wtf is the big 3?

yeah and wtf is google?

 

[BrianDye]

wtf is the big 3?

I thought for the longest time it was battery, alternator, and wiring, but when I searched I found out, its replacing your stock wires from your battery, which is a HUGE improvement from what ive heard, and when it gets a little warmer out, im gonna tackle the job too. 0 Gauge wiring is pretty expensive, I think I got quoted around $5.50/foot at a local audio shop, but online ive found it alot cheaper.

2kv8-post back your results, and some pics when you get it done man

 

[celly]

Tim, for what it's worth, I've found many sources that say that 4 gauge is all that's needed for Big-3. I went with 1/0 just because I only used 7 feet @ $3.40/feet is just under $24. Much cheaper than some of the stupid cosmetic mods some do to their trucks and this is actually functional. 4 gauge in the same quality wiring from Knu is only $1.40 so 7-8 feet is cheaper than a can of Nightshades.

 

[Nate_V8]

yeah and wtf is google?

Yea wtf IS google? lol

 

[BrianDye]

Goo·gle (gōō'gəl)
A trademark used for an Internet search engine. This trademark often occurs in print as a verb, sometimes in lowercase: "A high school English teacher ... recently Googled a phrase in one student's paper and found it had been taken from a sample essay of an online editing service" (Chris Berdik)

 

[2kv8]

Tim, for what it's worth, I've found many sources that say that 4 gauge is all that's needed for Big-3. I went with 1/0 just because I only used 7 feet @ $3.40/feet is just under $24. Much cheaper than some of the stupid cosmetic mods some do to their trucks and this is actually functional. 4 gauge in the same quality wiring from Knu is only $1.40 so 7-8 feet is cheaper than a can of Nightshades.

Here is a list of everything I am going to order:

(1) In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse (150A) - for the 1/0 gauge positive wire

(1) Kompression Distribution Block - to connect my headlight harness, stock power wires and neon power wires.

(1) KBT-30N **NEW** KonFused Negative Battery Terminal - has 3) 1/0 gauge connections. Going to use 1) 1/0 gauge connection and 2) 4 gauge.

(1) KBT-30P **NEW** KonFused Positive Battery Terminal - same as above but going to use 2) 1/0 gauge connections

(4') KLMX0BL KLMX Kable 1/0 Metallic Blue Power / Ground Cable - 4' just in case I need extra

(4') KLMX0BK **NEW** KLMX Kable 1/0 Graphite Black Power / Ground Cable - same as above

(2) RT1/0516BK Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal - Black - one for batt - to body and one for batt - to block aka alternator post like Brad mentioned to me.

(1) RT1/0516BL Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal -Blue - for the batt + to alt +

(2') KLMX4BL KLMX Kable 4 Gauge Metallic Blue Power/Ground Cable - to have a little more for routing amp power wire for cleaner install

Can I remove the stock wiring to make for a better looking installation? Like the battery to frame/body wire. I just don't want a bunch of unnecessary wire under the hood. I just think they would be any eye sore.

 

[celly]

Tim, Nice score. I think you've got it covered. You can remove the stock alternator + connection and stock battery to chassis connection. I actually stashed the stock alternator wiring underneath the coil packs. I could have removed it, but want to keep it there just in case I got back to stock some day. No real reason it has to stay.

I know you like to show your truck, so I'd ditch the OEM if I were you.

 

[2kv8]

Tim, Nice score. I think you've got it covered. You can remove the stock alternator + connection and stock battery to chassis connection. I actually stashed the stock alternator wiring underneath the coil packs. I could have removed it, but want to keep it there just in case I got back to stock some day. No real reason it has to stay.

I know you like to show your truck, so I'd ditch the OEM if I were you.

Okay, thanks Brad.

 

[Nate_V8]

How much is all that worth? Btw celly, your explorers mods are almost exactly what I have planned out, except you have a few more specialties lol. Looking for ward to the TMH and tune from henson, still iffy on getting a CAI though.

 

[2kv8]

With everything that I purchased and shipping the cost was about $95 for it all. I did receive the package yesterday and was planning on doing the install the same day but when I opened the box I had everything but the positive and negative battery terminals. I have tried to contact the company by phone, email and IM but nothing. When I try to call the company the only options it gives me is to leave a call back number (which I have) or record a message (also done). They took the money from my account for the terminals but I can't get an answer. At $19 for each one I hope to get them. If not I will not be very pleased.

Does anyone know of another way to contact this company and talk to someone directly? I just don't like have to sit around the computer waiting on an answer.

 

[celly]

Tim, sorry to hear. I placed several orders with them and they were always filled as expected so I've never had to contact them for any reason. They have really good feedback on eBay so I'm sure they'll take care of you.

Good luck!

 

[Equnoxe]

I've had no problems with KNU, I ordered 50FT of their 1/O gauge for my install and had some left over. use 0 gauge for my big three as well. made my own zero gauge terminals.

if your unsure:

from the battery run
- to block
- to frame
+ to alt
and your done!

 

[elcapitanmas]

stupid question

I'm curious as to what yall are talking about with the "big 3"

I know its one part alternator

second stupid question would be why would you need all that unless your running multiple amps/ quad12s?

 

[PandorasCustoms]

The "B3" is a HUGE upgrade for your allowed power movement.

**Note that throughout this breakdown, all watt numbers are for RMS ratings**

In basics...
1W=1V×1A

So, if your factory alternator was only built for 14.4v & 95amps max...
Your maximum watts can only be 1368 watts. And, we have not begun to deduct everything that your car is already powering.

Now...
To reach 1400 watts you need 4awg wire. (Minimum at 4' of cable length), and it would draw 188 AMPS. (As, you can see, we have already have a problem between the AMPs that we need and what we can generate, but that is something else that I am going to leave out for an alternator question.)

But, have you taken a look at the wiring that the manufacturer uses? I would say it is probably around 6awg.

Now, all of the numbers included here do not include any resistances.

So, essentially the wires size just isn't right for what we are looking to use it for.
By upgrading the wire, we are capable of efficiently passing as much power as possible through the cable.

A good "how to" on upgrading the Big Three can be found here...
How to upgrade the Big Three