How to: - How to: Push Button Starter | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: How to: Push Button Starter

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little x

Explorer Addict
Joined
March 21, 2005
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City, State
SW VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 XL
First off: What you do to your truck is done by you, not me. This is just an overview of what I have done to my truck. If you do the same and it F’s your truck up, or someone steals it, or you kill yourself, It’s Not My Fault!

This is a write up of how to install a push button starter on your 1st gen X. I have been running my truck this way for 3 years now with no problems. If you set up your truck the same way as mine then you will be able to start and run the truck without the key. But, the steering wheel will be locked without the key. So the engine runs, but you can’t drive it any where. I find this useful for warming the truck up in the mornings without anyone being able to steal it. And plus it just looks cool.

Starter_Pannel.jpg


My set up is using one switch to turn on the accessories, one switch to turn on the ignition, and a push button for the starter. I bought this mounting plate to make the installation go a little smoother and look a little flashier, but it’s not required. You could just pick up a few high amp switches and a button at the local parts store and put them just about anywhere.

First off disconnect your battery. There are several Hot wires you may be messing with.

Now you need to remove the plastic part of the dash that is underneath the steering column. First disconnect the hood release, it is held on with 2 bolts.

hood_release.jpg


Then unscrew the 2 bolts at the bottom corners of the panel, and remove it, the top is just wedged in.

Pannel_Screw.jpg


Now you need to remove the two large bolts that support the steering column. The wheel will sag down giving room to access the ignition switch which is on the top of the steering column, close to the firewall.

Right_Bolt.jpg

Left_Bolt.jpg


Disconnect the ignition switch, there are clips on the front and back.

Switch_On.jpg

Switch_On_2.jpg


This is a pic of my ignition switch, after some wires have been trimmed.

Switch_Off.jpg


By now you should have already planned out where you are going to mount your switches and push button. Have you? Ok then. What you are going to do is cut off certain wires that are running to your ignition switch, and extend them to the switches and button you are installing.

Here is a diagram of the Ignition Switch. Each wire with a black bar across it is going to be cut and run to a switch. The wire colors in this diagram and the next remain the same. I’m not 100% sure what the “proof” wires are, or what the ignition bypass circuit is, so I left those wires, and the 2 power wires all connected up.

IgnitionSwitch.jpg


You will need to run 2 power wires from the battery to your switches, every other wire (except for one jumper) comes from the cut ignition switch wires.

Switchdiagram.jpg


Wire up you switches and button.

Wire_Mess.jpg


Reinstall the ignition switch so that the proof wires will still get power. Reconnect the steering column support. Put the dash panel back on. Reconnect the hood release. Reconnect the battery and start it to see if it works.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 



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Looks clean. I've been running mine with push button for about a year now because the metal silver piece on my ignition switch came off and I didn't want to mess with it any more. The differences are:

I didn't cut any wires to the ignition harness. I had previously had a bulldog remote starter, so I ran a new hot wire to my switches and from the switches tapped in to the ignition and accessory wires. So, it can still be started and driven with a key and not touching the buttons.

For my switch panel, I put a Moroso drag racing panel, 5 switches and a momentary for starter, in the top of my center console lid. I cut the lid, set the panel in, did all the wiring inside the console, so its easy to access and the arm rest covers up the switches. So if you don't know its there...you can't see it.

I also removed my key switch, turned it "one click" (one tooth on the gear) forward and reinstalled it. That way when the key is out and the switch is locked, it is in the area where the steering wheel and transmission shifter are unlocked, but nothing is on. So you don't need a key to drive at all, and it can't "accidently" lock the steering wheel while you're driving without a key.

If anyone's interested let me know and I'll take some pictures.
 






Nice rightup man.

But you don't have to take apart the steering wheel to get to the ignition and starter wires.

They(along with all the other wires in the column) come out of the top of the column underneath the dash. You don't have to remove any panels. Except to mount your switch.

If I remember correctly the ignition on wire is red w/light green stripe and the starter contactor wire is red w/light blue stripe. Though that could be backwards.

Go to comandocaralarms.com or the12volt.com and you can find wiring diagrams.

Will make the install go faster.

I finally hooked mine up last weekend using the oil pressure switch as a failsafe. It was acting up the other day. Think I may have made a bad connection.
 






Hey, can someone tell me if I`m right. To kill the engine all you would do is turn the ignition switch off, correct?
 






I was in a hurry one day and the ignition wasnt working so I ran a 12v from the battery to a push button and ran the other to the starter sol. You still need to turn the key to on.
 






Rust- the Way little X and I have it set up, to kill the engine you turn off the switch that you have on the ignition. I think that would be the one that he has as a covered switch.
 






my buddy did this to his 86 jeep cherokee
 






how many amps should the switches be?
 












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