Intermittent Electric Window Problem

[Cory L.]

Was wondering if anyone else might have had this problem. I had to replace a window regulator on my AWD 1998 Ford Explorer XLT on the driver side. I had never had a problem with the window on the passenger side rolling up or down, until I changed the window regulator on the driver side. As soon as I replaced that regulator (which came with a new motor), I've been having an intermittent problem with the passenger side window not wanting to roll down. I can use either switch (the one on the driver side door or the passenger side) and it won't roll down. I've been unable to figure out any specific conditions which exist when the passenger side window decides not to roll down, or when it finally decides to start working again, and it's got me a little stumped. Has anyone else had a problem like this and, if you have, what solutions did you come up with the fix the problem, assuming you fixed the problem?

(Edit: Well, it looks like I've figured out what the problem is. Today, the window stopped working again so I bit the bullet and decided to remove the door panel (and wasted more clips) and I hooked up the old motor that was on the driver side (which still worked, it's just that the regulator was all bent up and that's why I had to replace it) and it worked. So, apparently that intermittent problem is in the motor. Kind of weird that it would have that kind of intermittent problem as usually they either go out completely, or they don't. Also tried wiggling the wires to the motor around and that didn't do any good so the problem must be inside the motor itself. But, thanks everyone for your replies and suggestions.)

 

[Turdle]

Usually all window control problems can be associated with the wiring through the door jamb.you need to get in there and look for broken wires.

The driver side window lockout switch can be fidgety at times. Blowing it with high pressure air while toggling can help

 

[J_C]

Ditto, broken wires in the door jamb is by far the most common fault. You fix one then some time goes by and another breaks. Ford should have used higher strand count, silicone insulated wire in the first place, or some kind of clockspring arrangement so there's no wires flexing every time the door is open and shut.

 

[Cory L.]

Usually all window control problems can be associated with the wiring through the door jamb.you need to get in there and look for broken wires.

The driver side window lockout switch can be fidgety at times. Blowing it with high pressure air while toggling can help

The lockout switch? Is that the long horizontal switch that's below the four (on a 4-door) window switches? I've messed around with that thing and it doesn't seem to do anything. Further, I was under the impression that the lockout switch is only supposed to be for the back windows and not for the front windows. As far as the wiring goes, I want to try to rule everything else out before I go messing around with the wiring, and messing up the boot (or whatever they call it) that encases the wiring. I'm leery about even messing with that thing. And, thanks for your reply.

 

[Metalface]

Was wondering if anyone else might have had this problem. I had to replace a window regulator on my AWD 1998 Ford Explorer XLT on the driver side. I had never had a problem with the window on the passenger side rolling up or down, until I changed the window regulator on the driver side. As soon as I replaced that regulator (which came with a new motor), I've been having an intermittent problem with the passenger side window not wanting to roll down. I can use either switch (the one on the driver side door or the passenger side) and it won't roll down. I've been unable to figure out any specific conditions which exist when the passenger side window decides not to roll down, or when it finally decides to start working again, and it's got me a little stumped. Has anyone else had a problem like this and, if you have, what solutions did you come up with the fix the problem, assuming you fixed the problem?

I have this problem with my 97 XLT; passenger side window is the one that misbehaves. It noticeably gets worse when there is moisture in the interior (leaking sunroof seal, can't be assed to do anything about it yet because my carpet is out anyway. whatever.)
I read that it has to do with the connection itself. But that was once, and it was an old post, and I definitely wouldn't be able to dig that up for you right now lol. Probably couldn't if I tried at this point.
The one time recently I got it to "come back" was by pressing the button on the passenger door, and the button to move the passenger window on the driver door, at the same time. Like. Fiddle with it I guess.
Another time locking and unlocking the window, with the lockout switch, worked.
Another time, it didn't work at all, and had to wait until the next day, but then it was totally fine.
So that makes me wonder if it's a corroded/sad connection. Of course, mind you, I had this problem *before* the sunroof seal started leaking. It just noticeably gets worse if there's a little bit of dew in the truck hahah
I guess definitely check those wires for damage like everyone says, but don't hesitate to consider moisture as well, of course possibly just amplifying an already existing problem. I'm aware that by this point if you haven't replaced the seal, it is leaking.. They don't last 25 years, they shrink.. Or whatever it is they do lol.

 

[Turdle]

The lockout switch locks all windows, except driver window

 

[Cory L.]

The lockout switch locks all windows, except driver window

Again, is that the long horizontal switch that's below the four (on a 4-door) window switches on the driver side door? Because, if it is, mine doesn't seem to do anything and doesn't lock any of the windows. And, maybe that's the culprit. Maybe it's occasionally working. It has no markings on it to tell where the lock position is and where the unlock position is so maybe I have it in the lock position and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[Turdle]

It won't lock driver window switches, just locks the others.

 

[Cory L.]

It won't lock driver window switches, just locks the others.

Okay, I understand that part. But, again, wow, I've asked this question three times now. Is that lockout switch the long horizontal switch below the four (on a 4-door) window switches on the driver side door, as circled in red in the picture?

 

[Turdle]

Yes,, thought that was answered since you said it worked wonky. Sorry bout that

 

[J_C]

The lockout switch? Is that the long horizontal switch that's below the four (on a 4-door) window switches? I've messed around with that thing and it doesn't seem to do anything. Further, I was under the impression that the lockout switch is only supposed to be for the back windows and not for the front windows. As far as the wiring goes, I want to try to rule everything else out before I go messing around with the wiring, and messing up the boot (or whatever they call it) that encases the wiring. I'm leery about even messing with that thing. And, thanks for your reply.

What does "doesn't seem to do anything" mean exactly? Do the rear windows roll up and down at all? If they do, do they roll up and down using the same door's switch panel with the lockout switch in either position? The lockout switch only has one pole, power in and out so if bad, none of the switch panels on the rear doors would work either.

I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that when that lockout switch is in the disabled (locked out) position, that the driver's door switch for the passenger's side/right front window, should still be able to operate that window, as well as the driver's door switch still being able to operate both rear windows, no? That is what the wiring diagram suggests to me as well, which I've attached below. *I could be wrong...*

If that is correct, then a flaky lockout switch is still possible but not the only fault if the driver's door switch doesn't operate the front passenger/right window.

Anyway, the lockout switch is supposed to lockout when you press the right side (PDF owner's manual page 51, I don't recall if the paper manual has the same page #'s). If you don't have an owners manual it might be worth downloading. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/98expog1e.pdf

 

[Cory L.]

Yes,, thought that was answered since you said it worked wonky. Sorry bout that

Alright, thanks for answering my question with regards to whether or not that switch is the window lockout switch. And, it doesn't work wonky, as it doesn't seem to work at all. All four windows roll down no matter what position that switch is in, including the passenger side window which has decided to start working again. So, I guess I'll have to investigate that switch and see if that might be causing a problem.

 

[Cory L.]

What does "doesn't seem to do anything" mean exactly? Do the rear windows roll up and down at all? If they do, do they roll up and down using the same door's switch panel with the lockout switch in either position? The lockout switch only has one pole, power in and out so if bad, none of the switch panels on the rear doors would work either.

I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that when that lockout switch is in the disabled (locked out) position, that the driver's door switch for the passenger's side/right front door, should still be able to operate that window, as well as the driver's door switch still being able to operate both rear windows, no? That is what the wiring diagram suggests to me as well, which I've attached below. *I could be wrong...*

If that is correct, then a flaky lockout switch is still possible but not the only fault if the driver's door switch doesn't operate the front passenger/right window.

Anyway, the lockout switch is supposed to lockout when you press the right side (PDF owner's manual page 51, I don't recall if the paper manual has the same page #'s). If you don't have an owners manual it might be worth downloading. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/98expog1e.pdf

It looks like you're right. I just went out and checked and with that lockout switch in one position, the windows won't roll down if you use the switch on the door with the window you want to roll down but, will still roll down using the switches on the driver side door. So, apparently, the switch DOES work. I didn't know the lockout switch just disables all the switches on all the other doors, except the driver side door. So, thanks for clearing that up for me. Well, in that case, it's probably unlikely it's the lockout switch causing the problem and I'll have to move on to other possibilities. Also, thanks for the link to the PDF owner's manual and wiring diagram, I've been looking for one of those.

 

[Zachsquatch123]

I ran into something similar with mine this week.

Every blue moon the windows stop working.
I cut open the loom between the FL body and door and found a cracked ground. Clipped them back together and the windows still don't work. I checked the voltage at the door lock- good ~12v, good ground. Checked continuity on the ground and it came back good when I used a test light on the lock switch. However, no voltage on any of the window switches shows with a test light or a multimeter. Tested the hot wire for the windows and nothing showed up. However, that particular wire wasn't broken or frayed between the door.

I walked out this afternoon and was going to work on the issue. I turn the key and just by chance I pushed a few of the window switches and heard clicking around the dashboard. I clipped the ground back together and they all work again.

It beats all I ever saw and if it miraculously repairs itself, how do I even "fix" it. Sure, I'm going to repair the broke ground, but I don't see how that's the issue when the windows just started working again.

It will more likely happen again and the problem is that by the time I checked everything behind the door panel, they're operating.