Is using sealant necessary?

[Addicted]

Hello, I'm preparing to install a gates water pump onto my 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 4.0L V6 engine. I purchased the following Fel-Pro gasket which does have a small bead of silicone on one side only.

Fel-Pro Water Pump Gasket

Should I use a sealant on the other side of the gasket? And if so would it be best used on the pump side or engine block side?


I'm also replacing upper and lower radiator hoses which are held using a tension band type hose clamp. Similar to the one in the photo below.

Is it OK to reuse these bands? They are the original bands and have never been removed. It's possible they still hold a strong tension?

Or is it best to replace these also?

And if so, I do prefer using the same tension band type clamps however I haven't been able to find them online for the radiator hose size.


Any help here on both these concerns would be greatly appreciated.

 

[C420sailor]

I don’t think I used any sealant when I installed a new pump on my SOHC. But it was a while ago.

That said, if I were to do it again, I’d likely use a very light smear of the right RTV. But that’s just me.

The more vital the seal, and the more difficult it is to get to, the more likely I am to apply a sealant to it.

 

[Pete Deering]

Hello, I'm preparing to install a gates water pump onto my 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 4.0L V6 engine. I purchased the following Fel-Pro gasket which does have a small bead of silicone on one side only.

Fel-Pro Water Pump Gasket

Should I use a sealant on the other side of the gasket? And if so would it be best used on the pump side or engine block side?


I'm also replacing upper and lower radiator hoses which are held using a tension band type hose clamp. Similar to the one in the photo below.

View attachment 450388

Is it OK to reuse these bands? They are the original bands and have never been removed. It's possible they still hold a strong tension?

Or is it best to replace these also?

And if so, I do prefer using the same tension band type clamps however I haven't been able to find them online for the radiator hose size.


Any help here on both these concerns would be greatly appreciated.

I uses a Contact adhesive spray that holds the gasket in place on the pump.
If you install a sealant on the block side. You need too clean that off when replacing the pump.
does gouging the block surface, which could cause a leak.
There should installation instruction with the new pump.
I Also reuse the clamps , unless they are bad. The clamp picture, I believe gets replaced, because there is a special tool too remove them. I see now, the price of that tool goes. Anywhere from $8 to $60 lifetime warranty.
I own that tool because its tough to access and remove that clamp. Its easy with a band clamp.

 

[Pete Deering]

I uses a Contact adhesive spray that holds the gasket in place on the pump.
If you install a sealant on the block side. You need too clean that off when replacing the pump.
You run the risk of gouging the block surface, which could cause a leak.There should installation instruction with the new pump.I Also reuse the clamps , unless they are bad. The clamp picture, I believe gets replaced, because there is a special tool too remove them. I see now, the price of that tool goes. Anywhere from $8 to $60 lifetime warranty. I own that tool because its tough to access and remove that clamp. Its easy with a band clamp.

Chilton manual state the following
To install:

1. Clean the mounting surfaces of the pump and front cover thoroughly. Remove all traces of gasket material.
2. Apply adhesive gasket sealer to both sides of a new gasket and place the gasket on the pump.
3. Position the pump on the cover, while connecting the bypass hose to the pump, and install the bolts finger-tight. When all bolts are in place, torque them to 72-108 inch lbs. (6-9 ft. lbs. or 8.5-12 Nm).
4. Position the bypass hose clamp back to its original position.
5. Install the water pump pulley and its attaching bolts. Snug the bolts.
6. Connect the lower radiator and heater hoses to the water pump.
7. Install the belt idler pulley.
8. Lift the accessory drive belt tensioner and install the belt.
9. Securely tighten the water pump pulley attaching bolts.
10. Install the radiator and the engine fan.
11. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
12. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

 

[J_C]

I purchased the following Fel-Pro gasket which does have a small bead of silicone on one side only.

Fel-Pro Water Pump Gasket

I would add sealant to the other side of the gasket, and if that side is not facing the water pump, add some to that side to hold it on while installing.

Clamps, I reuse if in good condition, unless of course it leaks after reinstalling.

 

[410Fortune]

I Always sandwich water pump timing cover and thermostat gaskets with a light film of rtv

Though the gaskets may say to install dry a small film had never hurt anything. I do not get leaks, ever… school of hard knocks

 

[Addicted]

Thank you all for the helpful replies. Looks like we all agree, a little RTV won't hurt. I went ahead and picked this up from Amazon. Looks like it's formulated specifically for water pumps.

Permatex Water Pump RTV Silicone Gasket

Chilton manual state the following

And thank you Pete for the Chilton's step by step water pump install. Looks like they also suggest using some rtv.

I do have the tool for removing those constant tension type bands. I prefer these bands over the screw types. There's never any worries of the screw loosing and backing off. These seem to hold very securely.


My clamps look like there still in good shape. Will go ahead and reuse them.


Question about the rtv silicone. The Fel-Pro gasket I have already has a small red bead of silicone on one side only (as shown in the photo below).

Should that be placed on the engine side and use the rtv that I purchased from amazon for the water pump side?

Maybe it doesn't matter but I was thinking the rtv would help hold the gasket onto the pump side upon install.

 

[Addicted]

I would add sealant to the other side of the gasket, and if that side is not facing the water pump, add some to that side to hold it on while installing.

Yes, I was thinking it would be best to use the rtv (which I purchased from Amazon) on the water pump side to hold the gasket in place during install.

 

[C420sailor]

I’d do a thin coat on both sides.

And when we say thin, we actually mean thin. You don’t want a bunch to sandwich out. Just enough to cover the gasket or surface in a thin film, depending on how you prefer to apply it.

It’s a different game when you are making a gasket with the sealant.

 

[EB4X]

I despise those "tension bands" ....always have to fight getting them off and on... I guess if I wasn't so cheap I'd buy the proper tool for them versus adjustable pliers, I usually replace with hose clamps after removing them. Vent over.

 

[410Fortune]

This is the tool for those
It saves my butt all the time, makes them so much easier

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3LYZM7?tag=seriouexplor-20

I just sealed a 3.0

You can see the light film of red permatex on both side of wp gasket

 

[Addicted]

This is the tool for those
It saves my butt all the time, makes them so much easier

Yes, definitely need to have that type of tool when working on these types of clamps. I purchased the OTC version from Amazon about 7 yrs ago. Still looks new. It's helped tremendously on several occasions.


Nice photo there. The joy of having all that room to work on an engine while mounted on a stand.


So even though my Fel-Pro gasket has a thin film of that red sealant on one side (as was shown in the photo I provided) it's still a good idea to use a light film of the permatex on both sides?

 

[410Fortune]

I would
The permatex simply makes up for any imperfections in the aluminum bits

 

[Addicted]

Alright. Will use a thin film of the permatex on both sides.


I'll be flushing the system and wanted to know if anybody has used one of these vacuum bleeding and coolant filling systems before?

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit


Seemed like a nice sure way to make sure we don't get any air stuck in the system. Unless there is a bleeder valve on the engine somewhere that I'm not aware of?

 

[Pete Deering]

Alright. Will use a thin film of the permatex on both sides.


I'll be flushing the system and wanted to know if anybody has used one of these vacuum bleeding and coolant filling systems before?

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit


Seemed like a nice sure way to make sure we don't get any air stuck in the system. Unless there is a bleeder valve on the engine somewhere that I'm not aware of?

Yes, air gets trap in the upper manifold on my engine and causes the coolant temp gauge to fluctuate.
Note the overflow hose ( for coolant bottle) needs to be plug when using.
You also need two empty coolant bottle.
What a nice tool it is, when your coolant is fresh, it allow you too reuses it. Save some $$$.
When you are done with the repair, just put it back in.
A little more involve using it,but it nice.
When its old coolant, you Can dispose of it, mess free.
Sometimes , I still do it the old way, with the spill proof funnel.

 

[C420sailor]

I can’t see your details bc I’m on mobile. If it’s OHV, air does like to get trapped. If it’s SOHC, I’ve never had a problem with air, never needed a bleeder tool.