Length of factory radius arms on Dana 35 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Length of factory radius arms on Dana 35

c130marine@yahoo

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Location
South Jersey in the Pine Barrens
City, State
South Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ranger stx
Gents, im in a bit of a jam. I really could use some guidance. Okay I have a 91 Ranger ext cab STX I put a lot of lift on the truck. I ground down all the factory rivits and installed all the new brackets. Then reassembled everything. Now, I also extended the radius arms. not being a real "4 wheel drive guy", I thought I did pretty well. Well seems my ball joints have worn out pretty quickly...so I started doing some investigating. Even though I extended my radius arms, I still need to drop them or ext them more. The Dana 35 was leaning forward about -10 degrees. Which is about 13 to 17 degrees out of wack. SO my question is with the radius arms disconnected from the frame you can slide the dana forward or backward 2-3 inches. So I need to understand how to position the Dana and then where to mount the radius arms. I want the radius arms to be mounted within a 1/4 inch of each other since they aren't adjustable ends, and I was told if not very close the truck will pull one side or the other! Somethings that would really help me are, 1)what is the stock length of a radius arm that hasn't been modified? a measurement from center of the bolt that mounts it to the beam to the very last thread that used to go through the ford cradle type mount. The other problem I have is that the way the radius arms were mounted, the front coil springs both bowed at the bottom. like the top spring bucket was not exactly inline with the bottom bucket. More like the top bucket was 2 inches behind the bottom bucket. the springs would be straight until like the 3rd or 4th coil then bend back and from there the spring would be at an angel until it met the top bucket. so I put a cargo strap on each side of the dana and cranked it back to where the lower bucket looked as it aligned with the top bucket. the beams look straight from the pivot point to the spindle. so the steering doesn't seem to bind and it looks like everything is fairly centered. the coil is almost perfectly straight. huge improvement from before. or so I think....can anyone help me out???? Im looking for advice where on the frame should I mount radius arm brackets...meaning I think I ext these arms 12" total. so if I could get a stock length I would know for sure how much longer mine are. then maybe I could measure from the original holes and fig how far back. And how do I find out how my front rear should sit? Im pretty lost and need help. I would appreciate any input you may have.

Respectfully,
Dale
 



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Give this a read:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Alignment.shtml

The point being that the location and amount of drop for your custom radius arms will have to be determined by first getting the alignment set up correctly. (with the radius arms attached to the axle)

Once that is done, you will have the location where the mounts need to be.

Due to the nature of the TTB the alignment set up will need to be done at ride height.

I recommend taking some good ride height measurements, then remove the springs and rig up your axle on stands to match that location.

Once everything is in place and alignment is proper, make your radius arm brackets to fit the set up, not the other way round.

From there you can make the minor adjustments with the alignment bushing on the upper ball joint.

Make sense?
 






Also, the beam's box section (where the radius arm mounts to it) should be square with your garage/shop floor with the truck also sitting level. This will set your caster angle to around 5° which you can then fine-tune +/- 1-2° using the camber/caster bushings.

As for for/aft positioning, what I did on mine was set the passengerside beam so that the axle shaft would pass behind the bracket (bolt) of the driverside beam by about ½ - ¾ inch, then have the driverside beam's position set to match. This will actually set the axle about an inch further forward than what was factory, and offers some improvements not only for tire clearance at the firewall, but gives improved ackerman response in your steering (less scrubbing of the outer tire in sharp turns at or near full-lock).
 






FR425- thank you for the link on alignments. But I think I prob didn't clearly state my problem. The truck was together and drove fine. I went to get it aligned and they told me 3 of the 4 ball joints were worn out. so I research and find how the rear should be sitting., I checked mine and like I said was really leaning forward. so I fig I would just lower the radius arms. okay, in the process of putting a 4 inch spacer between the fram and radius arm bracket I thought I should make sure they are dead even so the truck wont pull one way or the other. that's when I discovered I can manipulate the front rear forward or aft as I choose. my coil buckets on the bottom side always seemed in front of the top bucket. this def caused a huge bow in the springs. so by using a cargo strap on each beam I have now got the buckets almost perfectly aligned...but is this wrong? when you work in a frame shop there are holes you measure between to see when the area needs to be pulled at. or aftermarket arms will tell u from the forward hole measure 12 inches back or use this other exhisting hole. I don't have that option. so the rear was in alignment, all I did was roll the rear backward so the top balljoint was closer to the back of the truck instead of way forward. but how do I know where to position the front rear (forward or aft) to see where the radius arms end to get my mounting point....?
 






beam placement

4x4 junkie...here is what I did...skyjacker 6" lift but used their 8" coils with a 1" spacer under each. I had huge camber issues as you can imagine. so I did a cut and turn. that with essentric bushings on the upper ball joint everything aligned. I also have the super runner steering kit. I would love to ext the wheelbase and move the rear further forward but my lower coil buckets already seem so far ahead of the top ones now. when I move them back like an inch and a half....they seem aligned vertically and almost all bow leaves the skyjacker spring. turn the wheels and nothing seems to bind at all, the beams look (to my eye) straight or not twisted....I just don't know where it was supposed to sit from the factory and wondering when I did all this work years ago if I did something wrong and that's why the coils are bowed. I can send you pics or anything you guys need. hell ill give you my cell number. im not trying to be difficult, I just think maybe I explained it poorly. I could really use some help. and thank you for everything so far.

dale:usa:
 






The coils are probably bowing because the axle is tilted forward like you said. Once you straighten that part out I think they'll be fine.

The lower coil mounts are a bit forward of the upper mounts on both of my trucks, the coils sit fine.

Posting up some pics would help for sure to confirm whether this is your issue or not.
 






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