Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[gavin]

I know I had to wiggle the arm around a lot to get the 2nd bolt out after the first was removed; since if the bolt boles aren't perfectly aligned, it won't come out.

try putting the rear bolt back in part way, then see if you can remove the front?

 

[Todd R]

I know I had to wiggle the arm around a lot to get the 2nd bolt out after the first was removed; since if the bolt boles aren't perfectly aligned, it won't come out.

try putting the rear bolt back in part way, then see if you can remove the front?

I have tried puting the rear bolt back in, still no movement. Maybe if I can get someone to wiggle it around... but I have put a LOT of pressure on it, it's seems like if it was just binding it would have moved more.

 

[sehaare]

I borrowed the bigger Ball Joint Press Kit from Advance auto ($159 until you return it) It worked like a champ. No need to hammer anything. For removal I soaked the ball joints in Kroil and used a breaker bar to turn the press nut just to make it easier. I greased up the new ones before they went in. They move out/in slowly and do not pop free like tie rod ends.

I'm 90% done on mine right now and wanted to add some info that I hadn't seen here (I didn't read all 12 pages so if it was already listed then just take this as conformation).

First be careful with the half shafts you can over extend them and screw up the CV Joint, I think that I came real close, I'll know latter today if I caught it in time.

The axle nut (or hub nut, if you prefer) is a one time use item and if you remove it you need to get a new one (I'm off to ford today to get them - hence the only 90% done). I got this info out of both the haynes manual and the official ford (read big $$$) 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual. update:I'm back from the dealer and they do not stock the nut. New nut cost $18. I've gone back over more pages and seen that some have re-used theirs. I've also read here that they come in two different sizes 31MM and 32MM. My current one are 31MM and I don't have the right socket to get the full torque on them (and no one stocks a 31 MM socket). SO.. I ordered the new ones and I'm hoping that they turn out to be 32 MM which I do have a socket for.

Finally the good stuff - Torque Specs from the Ford Manual

Lower Ball Joint nut - 83 - 113 FT-LBS

Top Ball Joint Pinch Bolt - 35 - 46 FT-LBS

Axle nut (hub nut) - 157 - 213 FT-LBS

Brake Anchor Plate - 72 - 97 FT-LBS

Brake Caliper Bolts - 21 - 26 FT-LBS

Dust Shield - 89 - 124 INCH-LBS

Antilock Brake sensor 62 - 97 INCH-LBS

Hope that helps

Steve

 

[Todd R]

I have tried puting the rear bolt back in, still no movement. Maybe if I can get someone to wiggle it around... but I have put a LOT of pressure on it, it's seems like if it was just binding it would have moved more.

OK, I give up. I have the rear bolt in and three jacks and a jack stand on the frame. I have tried every angle I can think of and it just won't move. (I tore my rotator cuff a while back so I can't get much on it just wiggling it). I finally got my ball joint press on it and I have enough force on it that I think I am bending the frame. So my next option is to have a friend come by with his welder and weld a new ball joint into the damaged LCA. Has anyone done this before? What should I watch out for?

Thanks again for all the help, Todd

 

[2TimingTom]

OK, I'll admit: I haven't read all 444 posts in this thread, but I have a question.

With regards to "improperly greasing zerk fittings" and leading to premature failure, what is the best way to add grease through a zerk fitting?

In the past, I would pump in grease until I could see the new grease pushing out the old from under the boot. Then I'd wipe away the old stuff.

The LBJ replacement process looks simple enough.

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't pump grease into ball joints until it comes out somewhere, that's for other greased joint types. BJ's should retain all grease, any leak is bad.

Add grease to a BJ only until the rubber "pocket" is plump, you can feel plenty of grease inside. If you keep pumping, the rubber will blow, thus requiring a new BJ.

 

[gavin]

on that note; generally, all BJs come pre-greased, even the greasble type. There should be no reason to grease up a new BJ at install.
When greasing, you shouldn't need to do more than one, maybe two, pumps at oil change time.

if you see grease leaving the balljoint, then its' boot is torn/ripped/punctured, and you will eventually (sooner, rather than later) need to replace it.

 

[8trac]

Ball Joint

That will be a big help. I'm gonna have to start replacing them myself. Is everyone else going through Ball joints as often as I am? 131,000 miles and this is the 3rd time! First was at 60K. I'd heard that the SporTrac eats them up, but this is ridiculous.

 

[gavin]

That will be a big help. I'm gonna have to start replacing them myself. Is everyone else going through Ball joints as often as I am? 131,000 miles and this is the 3rd time! First was at 60K. I'd heard that the SporTrac eats them up, but this is ridiculous.

sounds like there's something wrong if they are actually going bad that quick.
Sure, I've been through 4 sets or so, but out of round 33" Interco tires and a wheel with mounting holed machined off-center would cause that quickly.

 

[us41]

Great post....it helped me change my lower, when I had it apart I did the upper also. Get that far that part is easy...LOL Did put the lower in the deep freeze for a few hours and it just slid in with hardly any effort. Thankx........

 

[sehaare]

on that note; generally, all BJs come pre-greased, even the greasble type. There should be no reason to grease up a new BJ at install.
When greasing, you shouldn't need to do more than one, maybe two, pumps at oil change time.

if you see grease leaving the balljoint, then its' boot is torn/ripped/punctured, and you will eventually (sooner, rather than later) need to replace it.

I guess that I have a question on this then. The moog ball joints are designed with an opening for the grease to come out. In fact they are stamped with which side to mount away from the wheel so that when the grease does come out it doesn't get on the brakes (and this is also documented in the instructions that come with them).

While your advice is probably spot on for the cheaper ball joints, are you sure that your comment about it being a bad thing to see grease coming out applies to the moogs as well?

Steve

 

[ahmaddeni]

If i just keep hammering and applying pressure would it eventualy strighten out or am i going to crack the control arm?

 

[gavin]

I guess that I have a question on this then. The moog ball joints are designed with an opening for the grease to come out. In fact they are stamped with which side to mount away from the wheel so that when the grease does come out it doesn't get on the brakes (and this is also documented in the instructions that come with them).

While your advice is probably spot on for the cheaper ball joints, are you sure that your comment about it being a bad thing to see grease coming out applies to the moogs as well?

Steve

I have Moogs on my truck.
Grease is not supposed to be able to leave the balljoint.

I have NEVER had grease leave the balljoint, except when the boot is punctured.

 

[sehaare]

I have Moogs on my truck.
Grease is not supposed to be able to leave the balljoint.

I have NEVER had grease leave the balljoint, except when the boot is punctured.

From the Moog website

http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/NorthAmerica/SteeringSolutions/Products/MOOG-Steering-Suspension/BallJoints/


"In addition, the ball joint boots are fitted with grease relief valves. These features help prevent contamination and allow debris to be flushed out when the ball joint is serviced."


If I read that right it sounds to me that debris (and grease) is flushed out when the ball joint is serviced (greased).

Steve

 

[gavin]

From the Moog website

http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/NorthAmerica/SteeringSolutions/Products/MOOG-Steering-Suspension/BallJoints/


"In addition, the ball joint boots are fitted with grease relief valves. These features help prevent contamination and allow debris to be flushed out when the ball joint is serviced."


If I read that right it sounds to me that debris (and grease) is flushed out when the ball joint is serviced (greased).

Steve

interesting... the only time grease has escaped from my Moog joints is when the boot gets a pinhole.
not once has grease ever left through any sort of "relief valve"

I believe there has been a discussion on that brought up before (at least, I believe I remember seeing one).

Interesting that they say that, when I've never seen it myself.

 

[CDW6212R]

I also have the Moogs, and those "relief valve" boots. They don't allow grease to come out unless there's too much pressure inside(too much grease), or not installed properly. Assembling it by the instructions, the boot should be pinched enough all the way around that it does not allow grease to ooze out like a tie rod joint etc.

It is not desirable to pump them too full of grease. They come with a little grease in them, but they need a few squirts of the gun to get a good supply into the boot. The joint just needs enough in it to keep the steel joint covered in grease, and to displace any water if there was a pin hole.

Once there is any leak or hole, then water can and will get in. That's when you'd have to keep greasing them constantly to push out water. You do not want the BJ's to allow anything in or out. They will last longer if they stay perfectly clean inside. Regards,

 

[gavin]

I also have the Moogs, and those "relief valve" boots. They don't allow grease to come out unless there's too much pressure inside(too much grease), or not installed properly.

I wish even this were true; at least for me.
On more than one occassion, I have put too much grease into the Moog balljoint and caused a pin-hole leak.

if there is/was such a "relief valve" in the Moog LBJs I had, it did absolutely no good.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I too looked at the boot and didn't really see how the odd point on the edge of the rubber boot would do any good. I loosened the first one I'd forgotten to locate per that, and turned it to get it lined up that way. Moog is a good company, but not magic or the best, just a good solid parts maker.

I gather many members here have discovered a stronger alternative, I'd go with those next time. Norris-McQuaid was it, another good old brand name?

 

[gavin]

Yes, I too looked at the boot and didn't really see how the odd point on the edge of the rubber boot would do any good. I loosened the first one I'd forgotten to locate per that, and turned it to get it lined up that way. Moog is a good company, but not magic or the best, just a good solid parts maker.

I gather many members here have discovered a stronger alternative, I'd go with those next time. Norris-McQuaid was it, another good old brand name?

they used to produce quality products, anyway.
after having numerous of their sway bar endlink bushings get destroyed in a matter of months, and numerous other folks on the board with the same issue with the Moog parts, I'm definitely going to go with a different brand if/when it's time to replace the BJs again.
McQuay-Norris is the company that makes some "heavy-duty" replacement UCAs and inner/outer tierods. Not sure about the LCAs or LBJs.

 

[CDW6212R]

This is a great site to road test all of these parts. We will figure out which are the best, and tell other about it here.