massive FAIL at changing my Timing Chain Tensioner cross threaded no idea what to do

[mxl4729]

If anyone has a better place to post this let me know.

My 2003 ford explorer sport trac has 85K miles and had a very bad Rattle at start up. if you let it sit for more then an hour or so it is very bad the longer it sits the worse it is.

It drove me crazy and after reading the forum i found an easy fix replace the timing chain Tensioner. the rear was easy.

the front way a huge pain to get out. i did get it out. when i put the new one it you have to push in to get it to start thredding in. I tried and tried and when i thought i had it i start to thred it in after 5 turns it got very hard. took it out and tried again and again kept having the same problem.

I decided that it was just hard and put the impact gun and it went about half way in the the impact gun did not have the power to get it in any more.

Well i am sure the Tensioner is cross threaded and now i have no idea what to do.

I need some help

what are my options? the only thing i can thing of it to remove the cylinder head and replace. does anyone have any other idea?

it this my best option? if so where is the best place to get a refurbished head?

what else should i did when i am in the engine like this? should i replace do the front Timing Chain Kit when i am in the engine like this?

HELP is i need my truck back ASAP

 

[tenny]

take it to a REAL professional......

that's all I really have to say..

that.....and, Im sorry for your misfortune.

 

[mxl4729]

take it to a REAL professional......

that's all I really have to say..

that.....and, Im sorry for your misfortune.

Thanks. If I had the money I would. This is something I am going to have to do my self.

 

[tenny]

Thanks. If I had the money I would. This is something I am going to have to do my self.

then you could try to re-tap the threads.....or helicoil.

OR a shorter bolt, and just try your luck on getting it tight...

its a gamble either way...

good luck bro.

 

[2000StreetRod]

No encouraging ideas

What a shame! Fortunately, I have very little experience with stripped or crossed threads. I don't have any encouraging ideas to offer. Years ago I tried to find a bolt with the same thread as the tensioner to make my own "precision" tensioner for timing the camshafts. I never did find one because the hole is so large and metric. I doubt you'll find a tap in that size to trace the threads without going to a machine shop. You might try using the old tensioner. As I recall the specified torque for the tensioner is around 50 ft-lbs and many members have to tighten it more than that to keep it from leaking. Even if the threads are retapped they may not hold that much torque but it's worth a try.

If you purchase another head you'll have to retime the camshafts after the head swap which normally requires use of the OTC-6488 timing tool kit. I've never found a source to rent it but you usually can buy a used one for around $150. The kit does not include instructions for timing the camshafts but they are readily available.

 

[tenny]

well, I know for a fact....you can get ANY size thread and hole tap and die.first thing you need to do is, find out what size the bolt is..and get a tap to match.

ifm that does not work, you could try to go up a size, but like I said....this
should be givin to a professional to take care of, someone who has done this
kind of thing several times....

 

[mxl4729]

my plan so far is to pull off the intake manifold so i can get a strait shot ad getting a tap in . then flush the AL shaving out with an oil change. the hard part is going to find a tap and die. anyone have any idea on who would carry them in stock to get a fit.

I have a digital caliper at work and see if i can figure it out that way.

has anyone ever had a problem getting this thing back in? the spring tension threw me off when trying to put it back in.

 

[2000StreetRod]

2nd vs 3rd generation

On my 2nd generation Explorer I had to remove the intake manifold to gain access to the left tensioner. I've had mine in and out several times but have always been extremely careful when installing. I don't use any impact tools.

I agree with tenny that a tap is obviously available from some source since the head has been threaded for it. The problem is that the diameter is large and the thread pitch is relatively small. Most tap & die sets under $100 only go up to M24-3.0. I don't know if that is large enough or fine enough. I have an old tensioner somewhere in my storage room. I'll try to find it and guess the thread size.

EDIT: Looking my tensioner I'd guess the thread is M22-1.5. A tap of that size is included in Harbor Freight's 45 piece tap & die set for $82. Drills and Cutters sells the individual tap for $28: m22 x 1.5 HSS Metric 4 Flute Plug Hand Tap. Remember, I'm just guessing the thread size and pitch.

 

[krispy97xlt]

Sorry to hear about your mis-fortune. In my younger days I cross threaded a spark plug into a boat engine's head. I thought I was really boned. I went to my local machine shop asked what I could do. The guy walked out with a tap and cleaned the threads right up. No-Charge. It was a big relief for a 16 year old who had his life savings tied up in a boat.

As for this tensioner, the other guys have you on the right track. Instead of accepting the metal threads in the oil/head consider using a heavy grease on the tap to capture the shavings as they are cut. You really shouldn't have to remove that much material since you are just repairing your mistake.

I learned a long time ago that if I am threading into plastic or aluminum I always hand start and run as far as possible by hand. After that I turn to a finger ratchet, slightly more comfortable than a bolt head but minimal extra torque.

I know hindsight is 20-20, and much of this isn't helpful but I thought I would share. I just went through the timing chain replacement ordeal (decided to let a shop tackle it for me) and it was for the best.

Keep us in the loop!

 

[mxl4729]

i found the correct tap

i designed a colar to keep it strait

the question is a flat bottom or tapered tap better to use? i am thinking flat bottom but have no idea

Flat on left tapered on right

tap in the colar

 

[Schuyler]

If anyone has a better place to post this let me know.

My 2003 ford explorer sport trac has 85K miles and had a very bad Rattle at start up. if you let it sit for more then an hour or so it is very bad the longer it sits the worse it is.

It drove me crazy and after reading the forum i found an easy fix replace the timing chain Tensioner. the rear was easy.

the front way a huge pain to get out. i did get it out. when i put the new one it you have to push in to get it to start thredding in. I tried and tried and when i thought i had it i start to thred it in after 5 turns it got very hard. took it out and tried again and again kept having the same problem.

I decided that it was just hard and put the impact gun and it went about half way in the the impact gun did not have the power to get it in any more.

Well i am sure the Tensioner is cross threaded and now i have no idea what to do.

I need some help

what are my options? the only thing i can thing of it to remove the cylinder head and replace. does anyone have any other idea?

it this my best option? if so where is the best place to get a refurbished head?

what else should i did when i am in the engine like this? should i replace do the front Timing Chain Kit when i am in the engine like this?

HELP is i need my truck back ASAP

Hey bro welcome to the club I cross threaded my passenger side rese tensioner.. has oil leak now.. what I tried yesterday was backing the tensioner back out slowly and putting thread lock/thread sealant on the threads and a little bit of gasket sealant around the ring and the head.. carefull not to block the oil passage way hole on the tensioner wait 36 hours for the stuff to cure and see if it holds... good luck thats what I tried yesterday waiting today to fill the car back up with oil and hope for the best.. fyi I just Bought my suv 2 months ago.. smh