Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

Vehicle: 1992 forest green Ford Explorer 4X4

(<Frikin Sweet)

Drivetrain: '99 GT-40P 5.0(4.9)L 302----4R70W Automatic

Well i got my engine so i guess its time to start a project thread! The timeline on this is pretty loose. but as soon as possible cause the ole 4.0 is making wierd noises.

EDIT: DO NOT be STUPID like me! Don't get a 2wd drivetrain to go into a 4wd vehicle! The transmission output shaft length is different and will require a full trans teardown to retrofit. Luckily one of the other awesome members of the forum has the parts I need to convert. But you may not be so lucky. I doubt most junkyards would sell you Just the shaft and housing. Would rather you buy the whole transmission.

Plans:
Full teardown and rebuild
Keeping the gt-40's
New gaskets,pistons,cam,bearings,lifters, the works.
Maybe new crank
maybe strokin it
build for future forced induction
Transfer case: Hhhhhhmmmmmmm... maybe bw1354(dont wanna) or 4406 if i can fit it between the frame rails
plans will definitely evolve as we go along

here the pics

cant wait to get this thing runnin!

 

[Spdrcer34]

Matt,

Do you have a pic of JUST the Lower L&L mounts installed in your engine bay?

And did you get the 2WD or 4WD mounts...I got the 2WD ones, and I can't figure out where the heck they are supposed to go...but will the 4WD ones put my motor up too high?

Ryan

 

[seth247]

I got my tps down to .900ish. Though I had to severely modify the mounting holes.

It idles better now and doesn't bog as much at traffic lights and such. Though it still isn't very happy about being put into drive, it bogs down like say if I'm rolling backwards and shift into drive. Reverse seems fine though.

It's surprising how touchy the gas pedal is. I mean I don't even have to press it down but a quarter inch and it's pulling me along.

The oil leak seems to be from the k&n filters I started out with. I think I over tightened them.

Anybody know about idle adjustment?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Seth.... Ryan's post is still there... maybe you're having difficulties if you're using the mobile version or using the site from your phone?

 

[Willard]

Idle should be controlled completely by the computer. I would imagine with things not quite dialed in yet and the aftermarket modifications would affect it quite a bit. It would also be worth it to check and see what condition the IAC is in as well. Perhaps there is some sticking going on.

 

[Spdrcer34]

The post is there on MY screen....

 

[Jakee]

Hhmm. I got am email that Ryan had posted...

Do you not need those pics anymore or did the post get lost?

Anyway. I got my tps down to .900ish. Though I had to severely modify the mounting holes.

It idles better now and doesn't bog as much at traffic lights and such. Though it still isn't very happy about being put into drive, it bogs down like say if I'm rolling backwards and shift into drive. Reverse seems fine though.

It's surprising how touchy the gas pedal is. I mean I don't even have to press it down but a quarter inch and it's pulling me along.

The oil leak seems to be from the k&n filters I started out with. I think I over tightened them.

Anybody know about idle adjustment?

Matt - You'll only want to manually adjust to get the RPM's down to a range the computer can handle and control. In other words, you don't want to mess with this unless the idle RPM is way too high/low.



I suspect (if everything is hooked right; all vacuum lines to the right place...etc) the reason the truck is trying to die when under load is the MAF curve is off a little or the IAC valve section needs adjusting in the tune. Another tuning fix is to have the RPM's increased a little when placing in gear; there is a section in the tune where you can control the desired idle RPM in neutral and drive. This will be the tuning part from James but you can increase the desired RPM (neutral / drive) with the xcal.

The last thing to do (tuning wize) is to be sure the idle load / timing table doesn't have the load value right in the middle of the idle load. Timing should be the same in this load range to prevent timing changes while idling - this will cause a rolling idle. In other words, if your truck idles at a .15 load (pulled that number out my rear) you don't want the timing table to have 27 degree's timing at a .16 load and 32 degrees timing at a .15 load. The timing should be the same for loads/RPM's for the load rows above and beneath the idle load range of the truck.

Timing is controlled not only by air flow/fuel but timing as well.

Yeah, alot of info you don't want to know but the point is this can be adjusted in the tune to smooth things out.

 

[seth247]

dammit i didnt get any emails for these posts.

ill try to find a picture for you ryan.

yeah i think that tune will have to happen as soon as possible.

i cleaned the iac before i installed it but i may get a new one to try it out.

 

[seth247]

trucks still not running great. Mixture smells rich and it won't hold an idle after driving foe a while.

I'm also getting lean codes from both sensors.(and for some reason it's Now giving me vss malfuntion codes. But I'll deal with that later.)

I figured, exhaust leak lettin oxygen into the system, or maybe the fact that my maf isn't the right year, or maybe the o2 sensors I got off of eBay were bad.(they are ford parts)

so I looked at one and you know what?!? The guys who did my exhuast welded the o2 bungs onto the new y pipe WITH THE O2 SENSORS STILL IN THEM!

And that's oxacetalene welding by the way. Yeah. That's right. They welded it with a torch instead of the mig machine I saw in the shop. Which is what I thought he was using. That kind of welding creates alot more heat and is uglier and more prone to leaks. Yeah. And guess how they tested for leaks... Spray paint. Yep. You heard me. So I think I won't go back to that place.

The outer body of the sensor is discolored from heat. I know these things are meant to take heat but I think they must have got fried.

And that's not all. The dude welded the bank 2 sensor in AFTER THE EFFING PIPES MEET! so sensor two is getting exhaust from both banks.

So I finally hooked up my narrowband o2gauge. To the bank two sensor. It is supposed to sweep back and forth between rich and lean, but it's stuck in the lean range. It'll react a very small amount when I floor it. Cause the computer goes very rich.

I think the exhaust shop fried the heater in both sensors cause it used to act like this until it heats up.

Anyway I'm broke so I'll have to wait to get new sensors till I get paid next week.

 

[CDW6212R]

The sensors are about $50 each from Tasca Ford. Don't worry about the rear sensors too much, they only double check the fronts. What MAF do you have, that could be an issue until you get a flasher and tune?

 

[seth247]

It's the plastic one. 99 and up I think.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ask James about that, he may know whether it's virtually the same functionally or not. If it's not really different from the PCM's view, that shouldn't be an issue. If it is, then I'd hunt a 96 MAF. But ask James that, I think he might know the differences in MAF by year model.

 

[410Fortune]

dude!! Doesnt it always work that way, you do all this nice work, and then hand it off for a simple exhaust setup and they jack it up!

I sat under my truck with my exhaust guy and discussed the options each step of the way, he is a friend of a friend so I am lucky.....

 

[Jakee]

Yes, moving the sensor location will cause issues without a tune. You can get the tune adjusted to see if it will fix but I think it might be better to move the sensors as close to the stock location, if possible. Trying to tune it as-is may not be wise because depending on how far down the 02's are now, the heat range the sensor was designed for might not be possible.

The guy welding probably had a previous bad experience with a 02 sensor being out while welding; screwed the threads up, then couldn't get the 02 sensor to thread. Using the 02 sensor for this was not a good idea and yes, he should have used something else to thread in there while welding.

Funny, I took my truck a few years back to have a sensor welded in. After he told me how he was going to do it a left. He was going to smack the pipe with a hammer to give it a flattened surface so he didn't have a curve to work with. Fine and dandy but that sure would put a restriction in a mandrel bent pipe. So, I did it myself and now it won't thread right....hehehe

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, exhaust work is really high profit, and the skill level is low at most places. You have to be selective.

 

[seth247]

I keep getting a cyclinder four misfire code.

Doesn't feel like it's misfiring.

 

[seth247]

It appears the number 4 injector plug got pulled off at some point so that was causing the misfire.

Runs much better now. More power obviously.

But still won't idle worth **** after heated up. Wavers up and down and will die if you rev the engine and let off the pedal all the way.

I'll check the codes when I get home. If it still giving me lean codes from both sides I'll pick up a 96 maf sensor.

 

[seth247]

Maf did no good.

 

[seth247]

Hahaha I'm getting 11 Mpg

 

[techieman33]

Hahaha I'm getting 11 Mpg

Welcome to v8 ownership Just go do some of thisand forget about that silly little unimportant number.

 

[seth247]

It should go up to at least 13 when I get this air/fuel problem worked out.







I hope