My 1997 Aerostar might need a new ignition switch.

[WalterF]

Just new to the forum. Live in the Yukon. Alaska is my neighbour for those who are not aware of where the Yukon is. Off the beaten track. Have a 1997 4.0 L Aerostar , started first click today. Turned if off for a minute and didn't start. Ignition switch has been acting funny as it has not been springing back after intitial start and lights on dash stay on until if manually move it back and they shut off. Think it may be an ignition switch problem. How did do I diagnose. Put a new battery, new alternator in several months ago and all has been well.

WalterF

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've renamed your thread, and moved it into the Aerostar section. Some models have a recall on the ignition switch. Check the links in # 13 in my list of useful threads to see if your model has a recall. You should update your profile to include your vehicle's information.

 

[WalterF]

1997 4.0 Aerostar XLT

Started vehicle fired up as normal. Shut it off and tried to start.... nothing. Battery 2 months old fully charged. No signs of anything amiss. Where do I start? New to the game.
WalterF

 

[BrooklynBay]

Both of your threads were merged together. Did you check the ignition switch with a test light or a multimeter?

 

[WalterF]

Brooklyn Bay I checked the wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay ( pulled the wire off the relay) with a multimeter. I had 12 + volts. Left the wire off and then shorted accross the two large terminal on the relay with a screwdriver hoping it would turn over, just heard a single loud click each time at what I think is the solenoid on the starter motor. I had expected it to turn over had hoped it was the starter relay. Now I am not sure if it is the starter or the starter solenoid attached to the starter. your thoughts

 

[BrooklynBay]

It sounds like the starter is bad. You could pull the starter out, then use a booster pack to test it directly. Any auto parts store could bench test it. Autozone has a lifetime warranty on their Duralast starters. Check the wiring going to the starter as well.

 

[WalterF]

Thanks BrooklynBay. Crawled under that sucker yesterday at -15 and tried to check the wiring. I have no idea how one is going to get the starter out without removing some of the exhaust system and possibly the front drive shaft on the 1997 4.0 litre all wheel drive aerostar. Did see some comments in the threads but nothing simple. Checked all your threads and assuming you must be some kind of Ford ghru. Anyway thanks for the help so far. I hope to push the van in my garage in the next couple of days.
WalterF

 

[FORDBOYpete]

Aero Starting & starters. . . .

WalterF,
I will echo Brooklyn Bays welcome.
You are correct the easiest way to R&R a starter on AWD's is to move front driveshaft assy' aside. You need not remove it from vehicle. You also need not mess with your exhaust system. You will have to turn & finagle starter motor out & replacement back in, it has been done many times. I put wires back on before I actually bolt in & mount up starter. I find it is easier I also will tell you It's Best done on a lift than on your back. Begin by disconnecting Negative terminal from Battery 1st. then have at it.

On "Stickey Buss" type ignition switches, if not a recall issue, it probably wouldn't hurt to swap it out anyway. It's 14 years old & not best idea for what it does either, [in my opinion] but it is what it is. I suggest a good manual be used for reference purposes.

I'd also tell you when you have mast jacket cover off & slider mechanism is open/exposed to swap switches, clean it thoroughly & lubricate mechanism lightly with dielectric grease. If you have access to Air & a Blow Gun use it to clean in there with moderate PSI prior to re-lube.

On LAZY KEY return issue always return it manually to neutral/ run position or else contacts inside are not correctly aligned & functionally correct. That issue is indicated by how various assundry indicator & warning lamps stay on. In addition some systems within vehicle are most likely not initialized and/or operating correctly which presents a plethora of Pending Codes in your Aero's OBD-II PCM. Suggestion in previous paragraph, cleaning actuating/operating linkage is, or should be correct solution. Failing that this paragraph allows you to continue on without allowing too much damage happening to your Aero.

While on subject of Ignition switches. Everybody must understand a digital system MUST INITIALIZE before it can "run". This means informed folks wait until system STOPS "pinging" to turn Ign' key engaging starter to Crank Engine over. Releasing key before engine fires & runs leaves coil pack with no current to keep it running. All current shunts thru start solenoid, which has a START & a RUN circuit. Ignition switch shunts 12V to start/run in Start position, then a Run Only circuit when key is released & returned to "On Position". However, between Start & Run and Run Only nothing exists in either circuit, there is NADA, Zilch, Zero, Nothing, No Current at all.

Thus Premature release of key may result in a "sneeze type misfire" which in most cases will create a sudden burst of High PSI in intake system, which is designed to be Vacuum Only. Many things can happen from nothing serious, to blowing vacuum lines off X-Mas Tree on intake plenum, to destruction of a sensing wire in MAFS housing on intake duct which flows air to throttle body.

I hope everybody is not totally confused here. But I have R&R'd my share of FoMoCo "Buss Type" slider ignition switches mostly from incorrect operation leading to wear & failure of some sort. It can be avoided by learning, understanding & following above.

Again WalterF Welcome to our Aerostar Forum on this site.

CIAO
FBp