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My 2004 Mountaineer died on me while driving and now will not start

jensenjoe

New Member
Joined
November 1, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Sterling Heights, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Mercury Mountaineer
A little background:
The first sign of trouble was a week or so before the vehicle finally died. It cut out on me a few times while idling at a red light. It fired right back up when I turned the key and started it again. This only happened a few times.

Than the other day I started driving and it just stopped. Fortunately, I was only a couple blocks from the house. The battery is in good condition. The starter still engages and cranks the engine.

I used an OBD2 Diagnostic Tool, but did not see any DTC's or Freeze Frame Data.

I sprayed a little ether in the airbox to see if it was a fuel problem. Still nothing happening when cranking the engine.

I checked the fuse for the spark coil unit and found it to be in good condition.

Figured I would get some expert advice from all the great minds on this forum before delving further into the issue.

My instincts tell me the spark module is bad. But i do not want to just start swapping out parts.

TIA :salute:
 



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what engine, how many miles?
 






2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.0L FlexFuel
approx 95000 miles
 






lift up a coil wire off of the coil pack about a 1/2 inch, and have somebody crank truck over and see if there is spark, if no spark probaly is a cank sensor and that would be a cheep fix.
 






I thought about it being the crank sensor, but there should have been an OBD2 DTC reported for it.
 






not sure about throwing a code because truck is not running to verify metrics as a whole system,
 






But if it stalled a couple times and re started the crank sensor should have thrown a code you would think??? I still wouldn't count it out tho... Live data when cranking should tell you whats up...
 






Well, the crank sensor is only $16, maybe I will just replace it and see what happens before buying the iginition coil module for $75.

The interesting point of this problem is that the engine was only cutting out when idling. Then, all of the sudden it stopped completely while driving.

I had a slightly similar problem with a cargo van: 1998 E350 7.3L Diesel. The crank sensors were going bad on these engines (warranty issue from 1996 all the way through 2004). The engine would just stop while driving. While still rolling, I could put it in neutral, shut the engine off, wait a couple seconds and start the engine again. It might run fine for a while or might start acting up again right away. The problem persisted until a new sensor was installed.

Wonder if my scan tool can give me crank data? Either that or I can put an oscilloscope on it to see if the data can be seen coming out of the sensor.

I did look for a spark using the old screwdrive method. There was no spark.

I really hate to just start replacing parts, Dad taught me better than that.
 












Looks like it is the Crank Shaft Position Sensor.

I went and got a new sensor, then took out the old one. The upper screw is really difficult to remove. However, I think there is a bigger problem.

The sensor looks like it has been severely gouged by the crankshaft belt pulley. Almost as if the pulley has moved backward. Is this possible? I cannot even install the new sensor because th pulley is in the way.
 






is the harmonic ballancer squeeking there is a rubber bushing that makes up the crank pullly, also there is a trick to taking off the pully if your going to remove let me know I will make a wright up for you,
 






Viper,

There is no squeaking. But I may have to remove the Harmonic Balancer (thank you for the proper teminology) to investigate further.

Any idea why this would have happened?
 






Look to the stickys.... The harmonic balancer should be on top...
just did one in my moms 04 and its defiantly a possible issue with your rig..
look at the sticky and determine if yours is messed up...
they redesigned it in 06 so it'll be a little different but works the same
 






Notice anything unusual in the bottom picture?

Looks like the whole source of the problem is the harmonic balancer/crank shaft pully. For some reason, and I do not yet know what it is, I always get the really really good problems!

A new Harmonic Balancer is $100 to $150. doing this job requires replacement of front engine seal at the same time.

I really am not motivated to do this job. So, my friendly neighborhood shop is going to do the complete job for $400 (includes parts & Labor).


img_1466a.jpg


img_1483b.jpg
 






wow that's ground down pretty good. your better off having a garage do the job, it is a pretty tight fit when you have the puller on the pully and very to damage the radiator. and a radiator is a pain to replace in these trucks.
 






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