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Need experienced A/C Help

JChrisMarion

Active Member
Joined
July 18, 2006
Messages
58
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City, State
Lakeland,FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer 5.0 AWD
Hello, I have a 97 EB Explorer 5.0 AWD with some air conditioning issues. I am know quit a bit about automobiles and repair, but I am stuck on what the heck is wrong here. My evaporator had a small leak (used my a/c sniffer to find the leak) which really isnt that bad to do. So I took out the accumulator, evaporator case and removed the evaporator. I installed a new one, new orifice tube (OEM) replaced EVERY o-ring and spring lock with the OEM A/C o-ring set. I also had flushed the condensor too just in case. I had no burned or contaminated oil and it has never been serviced for A/C problems. I also installed a new accumulator. I put in the 8oz of PAG in the system since I flushed out the old oil. I hooked up my guage set and hooked up the vacuum pump. Let it pull a vacuum for 20 minutes, all good! Hooked up my R-134 and sucked in my first can of Freon (with no leak sealer or other junk) and filled till it would not take any more with the system off. Turned on the Explorer and the A/C and continued untill the 22 oz's of freon were in. Now, here is my problem. With a clean condensor that has no air restictions inside and out, compressor working like normal, I can see at the orifice tube going into the condensor there is moisture and the line is cold. After a few minutes the accumulator also gets cold, but no moisture signs. Air coming out of vents is warm, around 89 degrees F at idle. Raise the throttle for the 2k rpm test on MAX with a fan blowing through the grill, temp is 97 degrees F. Same results even if driving. Low side pressure is 39 and High side is about 245.

Now, at this point when doing the rpm test for 10 minutes per Ford. My temp should be near 40 degrees. Which its far from it. My accumulator is also ICE COLD, possibly freezing and at the orifice tube its the same.

So, could it be freezing inside the line? Could the blower motor be sucking in excess amounts of hot air through the evap case (since it seams to be sealed so well) ? I am stuck, I have tried everything. I even sucked it back down, pulled a vacuum again reinstalled the freon with the same results. Any help would be appreciated. Something just isnt right. :(

Thanks everyone.
Chris
 



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This isn't a blend door problem, is it?
The cold orifice to accumulator lines have to be lowering the temp unless the air is not blowing over the evaporator.
 






Does your AC blow cold on the MAX AC setting? If so then more than likely its the blend door that has failed.
 






You've done what I would do. Given the condensation is in the right places, and the high vent temps, you cannot be pushing air through the evaporator. Either the evaporator is a solid block of ice (which would still be some cool) or the air is not being directed through it.
Let us know how this works out
 






Your right. I hadnt even posted back to tell you the answer and I see you two posted it. Its the actuall blend door post. Not the actuator, but where the actuator rod slides into the door post. It cracked and a chunk came out. It dawned on me when I turned it to suck in outside air instead of the floor vent and it got hotter. Seeing as it was kind of cool after it rained that night and raising the temp to 90 didnt make a difference. Any suggestions because I already know how much a pain in my butt and price is gonna be for a evaporator case.

JB Weld? Epoxy I dont think will hold. This is irretating. Atleast I fixed the main leak and have all new parts!? :rolleyes:

Chris

EDIT : BTW, I did a search and found the thread for the actuator nail project. AWESOME!! Granted mine broke backwards, it still worked. I cannot believe I did not think of that stupid blend door before!! Never crossed my mind. Many thanks to the individual who conjured up that idea. :D
 






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