NEED HELP A.S.A.P. ... Vehicle apart upper control arm won't come off

[mccoyxx]

Hey everyone ... I need some help A.S.A.P. ... I have a 96 Explorer Sport and am in the process of changing the upper control arm on the drivers side. I removed the nuts from the upper bushings and removed the bolt towards the front easily enough, but the one towards the right side won't come out ... there are wires and things that won't allow me to get in there to turn it enough to remove it ... also I can't get the balljoint to break free from the knuckle ... I used a 3lb sledge and beat on it every way i could imagine ... I lifted up on the hub, pushed down on it ... hit the control arm itself ... sprayed it with lubricant and then went at it again and its not budging !! .... I removed the nut from the bolt holding it and also beat the bolt HARD trying to push it through and it won't budge either .... HELP ME PLEASE !! ... thanks for your time ... RSM

 

[jlsparky7]

Sounds like the bolt is seized or bent. Cut it with a sawz all or cutoff wheel and beat it back a bit then it should slide out.

As for the ball joint coming out try heating it up with a propane torch. The heat expands the hole size so it should come out then.

If not then now would be a good time to invest in a pickle fork if you dont have one. They are cheap and well worth it. If the pickle fork doesnt work by itsself then put an open ended wrench inbetween the ball side of the ball joint and the pickle fork and give it a few hard whacks with that sledge. It should come lose between those 2 tips.

 

[scucci]

Hold the sledge on one side of the knuckle and whack the other side with a hammer. This distorts the knuckle bore and the stud will come free. Not having a 96 I can't tell you what to do about the bolt problem. You will need to move the obstructions out of the way.

 

[mccoyxx]

Oh geez ... the pickle fork ... where is my mind ??? .... yes I have one I bought at NAPA to do my S-10 .... and I also have a propane torch .... the balljoint removal shouldn't be too bad ... its that bolt that I am having the problems with. I dunno how I am going to move all of that stuff, but I will try somehow .... anyways thanks for the tips guys ... anymore suggestions are welcome as I probably won't go back out there til morning ... RSM

 

[budwich]

IIRC from my experience on that side... yes you have to "fight" the "junk" in the way. Loosen and / release the line "holders" so that you can move the fuel line (and what ever else) just enough to get the bolts by them. Of course, the pickle fork "hint" is a good one for the joint itself.

 

[lovebite]

I had the same problem on with my '98 and then realized that I had not taken the pinch bolt that holds the upper ball joint in out all the way. Did you take the pinch bolt completely out?

 

[mccoyxx]

ummmm is that the bolt that is holding the balljoint in place at the bottom ? ... NO I can't get it to budge at all ... I have no clue how its sooooo tight .... I had to put a 15 metric socket on a 1/2 drive ratchet and use a breaker bar just to get it to turn a little in hopes it would free it up, but it didn't .... I lubed it and let it sit a few mins and beat it hard with a 3 lb. sledge and it simply will not budge. I will get it I am just trying to find out the easiest way ... thanks ... RSM

 

[2000StreetRod]

new or old bolts

Do you have new caster/camber adjusters or do you plan to reuse the stock welded adjusters? If you have new ones then this link will save you a lot of time and aggravation. Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts

I used a 4 pound hand sledge and struck upward in a special spot to free the upper control arm from the ball joint shaft. I believe I have a photo if you need it.

 

[mccoyxx]

ummm well no unfortunately I don't have new ones. I wish I did after reading your thread on replacing them. I will just try and remove everything to get the old one out and if I can get it out I can get it back in. Just wondering though ... do you think I could possibly push it back into place and use a small cut off air tool and take the extra length off of the end and then would be able to push it out of the way enough ? I think its within like 3/4 - 1 inch of clearing now ... I may be able to get that much whacked off and allow it to rest where it is without completely removing it and just slide the new control arm in place ???

 

[2000StreetRod]

stock bolt length

... do you think I could possibly push it back into place and use a small cut off air tool and take the extra length off of the end and then would be able to push it out of the way enough ? I think its within like 3/4 - 1 inch of clearing now ... I may be able to get that much whacked off and allow it to rest where it is without completely removing it and just slide the new control arm in place ???

As I recall the stock bolt is not much longer than required and they have a high torque specification. I would be concerned about cutting more off than is required to completely thread the nut on the bolt. Do you have any plans to raise or lower the front height from stock? If so, you'll have problems finding a shop willing to align your front end with the stock adjusters. That's another reason I bought the new ones. Others on this forum have managed to loosen enough things in the immediate vicinity to get the bolt out without cutting it but they all expressed how difficult and time consuming it was. I think the standard adjusters are only about $20. I ordered the wider range because of potential height drop.

 

[mccoyxx]

No ... actually I am planning on keeping it at stock height ... I just want to get it in good shape as a daily driver instead of a project vehicle and it needed the UCA replaced so I dug in to get it done ... doing the other side in the next few days too ... maybe tom. and changing the lower balljoints as well. I just want to get the old one off and the new one on. $20 is no biggie, but if I don't need them I will manage without them. I just thought it may be easier to shave a little off the end of the stock bolt instead of trying to unhook everything.