need serious HELP! and advice- fuel system/ pressure problem?

[e39dream]

hey guys- I have been working on my explorer for a couple few hours a day the last couple weeks desperately trying to get it running, heres my scenario.

I had diagnosed the truck with a bad fuel pump about 1 year ago with the help of this forum. The truck had to sit for some months becasue I couldn't afford to fix it- the fuel pump was the straw that broke the camels back so to speak. I have a car to keep going too, but I need a work vehicle- the explorer.:navajo:

I came into some money and put new fuel pump in, as well as all the other things I could think to do while I had some time on a friends lift, shocks all around, brake lines, front u joints and wheel bearings, had to weld in new front shock mounts, replaced some big doughnut bushing in the front end. Ended up finding the rear leaf spring shackles so rusty you can poke your fingers through them- if you have a set of rear shackles for sale from a part out or something please let me know!!! I just dumped over 400 bucks in parts on this thing and still need a rear brake job. Heres the best part- IT STILL WONT START/ RUN!


The old fuel pump broke off at pump side of both lines when lowering the tank- rusty. The larger diameter vehicle side line was very hard to remove the old pump line piece from- ended up pulling the spring clip out of the fitting. Installed new pump- smaller line clicked right in of course, larger line snugs up but no click. Test everything and nothing appears to leak, no fuel smell. Lots of fuel to the injector rail coming from the schrader valve. I noted if you bleed the fuel system via the scrader and come back to it the next day there is zero pressure at the schrader, not even a drop of fuel until you key it or run the pump again. The truck runs on ether spray start fluid. The injector pulse is present when cranking, tested with 12v test lite.

Do you guys think that fuel line fitting not clipping into place is causing it to not leak but lose system pressure? I mean there is zero odor or liquid leakage near the tank at all. I've already tried to get the larger diameter line from parts places locally and online, its ford dealer only. I'm afraid to find out thier cost. What about replacing it with heavy rated PSI rubber fuel line and regular hose clamps- would that work?



The only other thing I can think is that the fuel pressure regulator is bad but I don't have a vac pump to test it- is there another way to test the reg?

thank you for any ideas/suggetions you may have and for taking the time to read my saga. Mark

 

[e39dream]

wanted to add this is the 4.0 4x4

 

[MrShorty]

The only other thing I can think is that the fuel pressure regulator is bad but I don't have a vac pump to test it- is there another way to test the reg?

Vacuum pump is a minor part of testing an FPR. The first thing I would do would be to put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Unscientific testing I've done suggest a minimum of 25 psi to start. without a gauge 25 psi may look like there's pressure there, but insufficient. Review Glacier's "fuel pressure mini-diary" and determine fuel pressure.

 

[e39dream]

thanks shorty- I have been leaning towards not enough pressure as well. which takes me back to my fuel pump repair and the broken clip in the bigger diameter line.

can anyone advise on fixing the fuel line? Is splicing in a hose with stainless clamps to replace the faulty spring lock ok? I'm going to put a new fuel filter on it at that time as well- I forgot about the filter.

 

[e39dream]

sploder update:

got the fuel line fixed- new spring clip from ford for 2.50. replaced fuel filter, bled system. still no start condition. if the truck sits for 24 hours it will sputter the first time you try to start it then nothing. I have a guy that is good with fords coming out tomorrow afternoon to read the fuel pressure, check the injectoion system with a noid, etc. So hopefully he can tell me for sure what is wrong.

there sure seems to be plenty of fuel at the rail and with good pressure- it shoots out a foot long jet of gas when you open the valve and run the pump.

theres no fuel getting to the cylinders though.

 

[e39dream]

ok update:

a guy came to have a look and read the pressure as follows,

15 psi on key turned forward

75 psi on ignition crank or if you run the pump from the test method mentioned in the chiltons. still will not start.

He says to go ahead and put a fuel pressure regulator on it- so I'm going to do that. Seems to either be making too little or too much pressure. Best I've found on a new regulator is 80 some dollars. gotta do it though.

I will update this- hopefully with good news.

 

[Creager]

I always see pressure raise towards 40 PSI after (priming) 2-3 turns of the key. If you pull the vacuum line off the FPR, pressure should sit at 41-45 PSI no matter the RPM (WOT).

Under normal conditions, usually at idle i see ~35 PSI, at WOT it may drop a little towards 28-30 PSI.

 

[e39dream]

changed out the fuel pressure regulator. hear alot of new fluid noises relating to the fuel system now- the old regulator was bad. I can actually get fuel out of the braided line of it when it's loose. The TRUCK STILL WILL NOT START!!!! fires right up on starting fluid.

I ran the stored codes- I'm getting a 157 Maf circiut ground and a 542 secondary fuel pump circuit

I assume I have fixed the 542 code as I replaced the fuel pump and it works, any ideas on the maf code? would that cause a no-run condition? do I need to reset the codes?

I really need help guys I just put another 100 on a new regulator and I'm still not running.

 

[schmidlkofer]

that sucks bad luck....sorry to hear that. bump/

 

[e39dream]

157 Mass airflow sensor below min. voltage.

I will donkey punch this mass airflow sensor. any insight as to what may cause this below minimum voltage condition? I have searched the forum and found that the truck should run without the maf connected so I'm not 100% sure thats the problem as to why it won't start. I also looked up how to clear the codes. I'm gonna try that after I cut the grass tomorrow and try again.

 

[e39dream]

would clogged injectors throw a code?

 

[shamaal]

Any luck?

Although I have been following the thread, I'm afraid my knowledge in this area is not advanced enough to provide advice.

The stickies at the top of the EEC IV forum may help

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=-1&f=114

Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes should clear rthe codes.

The MAF circuitry is below, ignore the red/green lines they were for a different problem.

There's a big Explorer to do on the East Coast this weekend, the experts may be caught up in that.

Good Luck!

 

[Opera House]

The fuel pump fuse can be removed and a meter installed there. Remember, the pump only turs on for about 4 seconds till the engine starts. Current should be at least 3A for the engine to run. Relay can be jumped for longer test.

I question the accuracy of that 80# reading you got once. There is almost no way for a regulator to fail high, they generally fail periodically by sticking open and causing lower pressure.

The below minimum voltage code may be a problem with the wiring providing voltage to other sensors also. Check for proper sensor power at the MAF.

 

[e39dream]

I haven't been over there yet- truck is still at the shop I towed it to.

I was reading the forum last night and read something about a guy who found his battery cables badly corroded inside about an inch off the battery, caused him some electrical issues. I had similar trouble on my 92 gt mustang back in the day, plus the Xplorer keeps needing to have a charger put to it because we've been cranking and cranking on it.

I happen to have 2 new terminals in my garage so I'm going to take those down there here in a minute, disconnect the batt, put on new terminals, and hopefully it will start. I'll be back!

 

[e39dream]

you know, I was at work when the guy read the pressure and I would have liked to have seen that with my own eyes as well. He thinks there may be some type of blockage in the system, but I think if there was it was in the old fuel pressure regulator.

 

[e39dream]

another update- went and cleared codes/ installed new battery terminals, the wires werent too bad as far as corrosion. Pulled maf sensor by removing the torx screws and it looked clean and intact, wiring looks good. Won't start. The guy is coming back tomorrow night to read the pressure again, I'll let you guys know what the pressure is now.

If I cannot get it running this week it's getting towed back here- I don't know if that will be good or bad.

 

[e39dream]

found refurbished injectors with a warranty on ebay for about 40-50 bucks after core charge- that's a relief. autozone wants 80 EACH.

hopefully I don't have to buy the ebay ones either- I don't want to pull the intake..

The truck will run for a very short time each day I go to mess with it- for maybe 5 seconds on the initial turn of the key, then nothing the rest of the day.

 

[e39dream]

I'm leaving now to go work on the thing. my friend with the pressure guage is coming today. I have faith.

 

[e39dream]

93 explorer 4.0 liter- still down. no resolution in sight- need real help.

I understand now where my friend was getting the high psi readings from. He has a bad ass fuel pressure guage kit. He removed the fuel filter and tested for pressure at that location first using connectors for his guage. Pressure could be bumped up in 10 to 15 psi increments each time the key was turned forward and pressure was held until released via the guage. He let it build up to and hold over 60 psi before concluding this test. Next we did the same test, only we reinstalled the fuel filter and tested it after the filter. Same results, so we put the other line back on the filter and proceeded to test the pressure at the schrader valve.

We are getting about 40 psi while cranking. during the testing of the pressure off the schrader my new fuel pressure regulator began making pretty loud noise, friend says it is working and shouldn't be a problem. it's just noisy now. great.


So as of this writing the truck will not run unless you dump gas or starting fluid down the throttle body even though there is adequate fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse. I did notice a plug wire arcing today so I'm going to put new plugs and wires on it. Why not. I'm getting sick of sinking my money into this truck with no idea as to what the hell is really wrong with it. I snagged a can of injection system cleaner to put in the gas- getting desperate.

Is there anyone in northwest indiana/ chicagoland that is a explorer guru that will come fix this thing?

 

[MrShorty]

Is the fuel getting from the fuel rail to the cylinders? I know you said the injectors are getting a pulse, but are the spark plugs "wet" after trying to start? That it will run if you put gas in the throttle body suggests to me that gas isn't getting from the fuel rail into the cylinders.