New MOOG upper contol arm wont fit into steering knuckle | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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New MOOG upper contol arm wont fit into steering knuckle

smclelland84

Member
Joined
December 26, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Orlando, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 Sport
So i have 99 Explorer Sport and I have had the joy of rebuilding my front end over the last two days. I have replaced the lower ball joints and have almost finished installing the new UCA's from Moog. But now the Upper Ball Joints will not fit into the top of the steering knuckle. I have tried to jack up the LCA and tap the UCA down it into the steering knuckle but its not budging. Any advice? I need to replace my steering rack after this so I would like this done before the hard stuff starts. thanks
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Try to separate the pinch a little with a pry bar. Did you have to hit the old UCA to get it to release?

Also, you need to have the ball joint stud & the knuckle lined up straight or it will bind and never go in. When placing the jack under the LCA, make sure it is not on the LBJ, but on the arm itself.
 






Nope

Im tryin to open it up a lil bit with a cold chisel, Nope the steering knuckle dropped of with the lightest of taps...the bottom on the other hand wouldnt let go and I had to hammer out the lower ball joint with the knuckle attached and hammer the lower ball joint out on my bench...not been a straight forward ride so far
 






























Bumping an old thread here, I'm having the same problem. I've got the knuckle out of the truck sitting on my bench, have worked on the pinch with a cold chisel to spread it a touch, and I still can't get the ball joint stud to seat. I'm fairly confident this is not just an issue of getting them to line up, the stud is physically bigger than the hole in the spindle.

There was a question on the part numbers for the Moog arms I ordered from Amazon, so I shot down to Autozone and I've having the same problem with these Duralast arms.

Is there a trick I'm missing here? Googling isn't bringing up many hits when I search for solutions, was it really that easy for the rest of you doing this job? I'm tearing my hair out here.
 






Holy crap. So, I guess this is crazy easy for some folks, and ocassionally insanely hard. So if you're having trouble, here's the "trick". Spread the knuckle (not too much, make sure your bolt still slides though both holes relatively easily), heat it up with a propane torch (it looks cast iron, I don't think you can hurt anything here as long as you don't heat the ball joint), and seat the first section of the stud on your bench, a large vise and the 4 pound negotiator are very handy here. It'll hang again once it gets past the slot where the pinch bolt goes, that's ok. Now take it to your truck, install it on the lower ball joint. Install the control arm on the frame. Now hit the spindle with some lithium spray, place a 2x4 under the control arm to place the jack on (don't jack on the lbj spindle, pls). Jack the control arm up. More. Disconnect the sway bar if you have to, jack it up more. Lots more, you need the weight of the truck here. Once you're up nice and high, wrap a ratchet strap around the sway bar and the control arm, reef that bad boy down tight as you can. Another squirt of lithium on the stud, and now go to town with that 4 lb hammer. Hit the control arm, not the ball joint. Every 5 swings or so, give your arm a rest and crank the ratchet another couple notches. Tap the knuckle back and forth very lightly to be sure things are seating correctly. Whale on it some more with the hammer. Repeat as necessary.

After screwing around all yesterday afternoon, I slept on it and this is how I started off this morning. Once I had everything in place on the truck, it took about a halfhour of pounding and tapping to get it fully seated. Hope this helps the next guy...
 






Wow, I have never had that hard of a time. I have to ask this--

was the "pinch bolt" in it's hole while you were seating the ball joint? I ask because it cannot.
 






Wow, I have never had that hard of a time. I have to ask this--

was the "pinch bolt" in it's hole while you were seating the ball joint? I ask because it cannot.

No sir, I wish it had been. That would have been a lot easier to get around. :D
 






Oh, and don't be thrown if your Moog parts say 8971F and 80167F on the arms instead of K8708T and K80068. They're correct.
 






Agreed, this shouldn't be that hard. If it was, I would be replacing the knuckles with a set from the salvage yard.

There is a notch in the shock tower above the UCA. I use a long pry bar with a pin end and stick the pin end in the slot. Push down on the pry bar and it forces the UCA into the pinch bolt hole. As long as it is lined up straight, it will go in. ANY off angle of the UBJ and it will act if it is too large to fit, if you haven't pried open the pinch at all.
 






Agreed, this shouldn't be that hard. If it was, I would be replacing the knuckles with a set from the salvage yard.

There is a notch in the shock tower above the UCA. I use a long pry bar with a pin end and stick the pin end in the slot. Push down on the pry bar and it forces the UCA into the pinch bolt hole. As long as it is lined up straight, it will go in. ANY off angle of the UBJ and it will act if it is too large to fit, if you haven't pried open the pinch at all.

I'll try that on number two, I'm tearing into the drivers side now. :)
 






If I'm not mistaken the upper ball joint only goes down into the knuckle to where the bolt slides through the indent in the joint going down into the knuckle. That's why the bolt has to be out to remove the old one. I just replaced my passenger side today and it went right in.
 






Number two was cake. Squirt of grease, lined it up, it slipped in with a couple lovetaps. The knuckle on the other side must be just a hair too small, I guess. If I ever have to do this again, I'll consider that junkyard knuckle.
 






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