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No Crank, "theft" light blinking rapidly

KamiKaziDK

Member
Joined
March 5, 2011
Messages
19
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City, State
Phx, Az
Year, Model & Trim Level
'02 Eddie Bauer 4.6
Ok, so my g/fs explorer won't start at all. It will not crank, and when I put the key to the "ON" position, the theft light on her instrument panel flashes rapidly. I called the Ford dealership and asked if it was the PATS system and the guy said no, if it was, it would still crank over, it would just not start. Is that right? I've checked all the fuses, left the battery disconnected for 15, even 30 minutes. I've tried both factory keys she has, the factory remote entry controls both lock and unlock the doors, I searched like crazy for a phantom "valet" button that does not seem to exist at all under the dash. I'm getting pissed off at this point. Should I just call the locksmith and have him come reprogram the keys into the ECU even though the dealership guy said it wasn't PATS? HELP ME!!
 



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Yeah, and I can't get it to give me a code. It just blinks rapidly for a while, then goes back to blinking every couple seconds, even with the key in the ON position, I don't get it!
 






I can tell you that it will NOT crank if you have a problem with the PATS. I had to replace my lock cylinder and fought with the PATS system quite a bit. I assume you have tried a spare key as well?
 






Car audio places sell PATS bi-pass modules for remote starters, don't they? Has anyone tried using one of those to simply bypass the system? Thanks Doom, I was thinking it was PATS related but then the dealership guy started pushing me in another direction with his input. So I'm thinking I'm going to have to pay a locksmith to come out and reprogram both my keys. I tried both the factory keys, so I'm thinking the memory just got wiped out all together?
 






Car audio places sell PATS bi-pass modules for remote starters, don't they? Has anyone tried using one of those to simply bypass the system? Thanks Doom, I was thinking it was PATS related but then the dealership guy started pushing me in another direction with his input. So I'm thinking I'm going to have to pay a locksmith to come out and reprogram both my keys. I tried both the factory keys, so I'm thinking the memory just got wiped out all together?

Yes, there are bypass modules available but it won't help you for this. I have one on my '02 right now. The box sits hidden just above the pedals while it runs a wire up to the lock cylinder. It has a coiled wire that goes around the PATS sensor and as the remote starter is activated, that wire mimics the signal emitted by the key. Some boxes make you put one of your current keys in it so it can mimic that signal and others have their own signal that just gets programmed in as an accepted 'key'. The system must only see that signal there at the time it starts and then after that it doesn't check for a signal again while the vehicle is running. So basically the system is still in use and requires an accepted signal in order to start.

The other option is much less secure but I almost used it when replacing my lock cylinder. You can simply unscrew the PATS sensor and tie wrap a working key to it and then secure it up above the pedals so the system is effectively useless. That obviously won't help you with your situation either though.
 






So I took the battery to get tested an it was bad, replaced it....still the exact same symptom. Doom, why did you have to replace your lock cylinder? Every place I've called is around 200 dollars to come out and program my keys. I don't wanna go and pay that if it's not going to fix my problem. Any suggestions? Or just bite the bullet?
 






try checking the fuses agian my dad has a 02 and the same thing he went to walmart and came out and would not do anything no crank and the theft light was on the dash, and when i tried to scan it, it said that no communication and i finally found a fuse for the o2 sensor that was melted on the exhaust and grounded and the truck would not start i fixed it and changed the fuse and it fired right up
 






Are you talking about an inline fuse somewhere? I've never heard of a fuse on an O2 sensor?? Do you mean a wire for the O2 sensor grounded out and was killing the fuse? I checked all the under dash fuses and all the fuses in the fuse block under the hood.
 






So the locksmith is here right now and neither of the keys will program into the computer!! Does this mean the computer in the truck went to **** and I'm gonna have to get a new one now? I'm used to driving a 95 mustang or an 83 F-150 and fixing everything on them easily. This is really pissing me off at this point.
 






So I took the battery to get tested an it was bad, replaced it....still the exact same symptom. Doom, why did you have to replace your lock cylinder? Every place I've called is around 200 dollars to come out and program my keys. I don't wanna go and pay that if it's not going to fix my problem. Any suggestions? Or just bite the bullet?

I bought my '02 and the key didnt slide in/out very easily. Took it home and parked it in the street and my dad sprayed a very small amount of some kind of lock lubricant he had and wiggled the key around. The key never went back in the lock after that lol. We spent countless hours fighting that thing and it was 100+ degrees out and I had to work on the thing in the street in front of my house because I couldn't turn the key to even push it in neutral. We destroyed the lock and finally got it out and put a new one in...and had the new cylinder keyed to fit the old keys though.

So the locksmith is here right now and neither of the keys will program into the computer!! Does this mean the computer in the truck went to **** and I'm gonna have to get a new one now? I'm used to driving a 95 mustang or an 83 F-150 and fixing everything on them easily. This is really pissing me off at this point.

I've never heard of a problem like that. I really wish I knew more to help you out with it. :scratch: If I come up with anything I'll be sure to post it but if not, best of luck to you.
Btw, my other car is a '94 mustang GT all mod'd out :D
 






SIGH.....thanks Doom. It's gonna end up at the dealership this week most likely, which sucks cause I was in the middle of building an engine for my 95. Fully ported aluminum heads, a ported cobra intake, cam, pulleys, the whole nine yards. I'm sure I'll get raped at the dealership to fix whatever is wrong with the Explorer now.
 






Car is at the dealership right now, I'll let everyone know what the diagnosis is as soon as I find out myself. Maybe be able to help someone in the future!
 






The halo antenna that goes around the ignition went bad, that's why the locksmith couldnt program a new key. $25 dollar part and $180 labor later the truck runs! Could probably easily replace it on my own had I known the issue.
 












It's in my post right above yours. There's a halo antenna for the transponder key that goes to the ignition that needs replaced
 






Just last night i had similar issues. Everything was totally dead but the theft light was blinking red. I tried to jump it and lights came on but would not start. just clicked...
 






explorer 5 get under the truck and check your starter. make sure all three wires are in tact.

check all fuses carefully.
 






No Crank After Dead Battery

Woke up this morning and had a dead battery in my 04 Explorer. Tried to jump start with a new battery. Cranked very slowly and would not start. Cleaned cables and terminals. Charged battery for 4 hours. Turned on key and security light started flashing rapidly. Turned the key to start position and got nothing. Used motorcycle jumper cables to apply voltage to the solenoid directly from battery. Motor turns over rapidly but the engine will not start. For some reason the security system is activated. How do I deal with this problem?
 



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