No crank!!

[magicd]

Hey all,
2004 Explorer will not crank, this has happened before and figured it was a finicky Neutral Safety Switch.
However, I’ve verified the following;
There is constant voltage to starter.
No voltage to smaller terminal on starter solenoid when key turned to start.
Fuse #12 (50a) located in Power Distribution Box is fine.
Fuse # 29 (10a) in the Central Junction box is fine.
Constant Voltage to terminal #30 of the starter relay.
Voltage to terminal #85 of starter relay when key turned to start. This should eliminate both the ignition switch and the NSS.
If the starter relay is removed, and jumped across terminals 30 and 87, starter will turn but truck will not start, even with key in start position.
Terminal 87 is grounded, as I used an ohm meter with alarm from terminal 87 to neg post of battery.
Questions: Should terminal 86 also produce a continuity alarm when connected to neg post? Or, is there possibly a grounding/wiring issue with the starter?

 

[Number4]

Not sure on your specific question, but this may be a PATS issue. Though I though with PATS, it only disables the fuel pump.

 

[magicd]

Not sure on your specific question, but this may be a PATS issue. Though I though with PATS, it only disables the fuel pump.

Not sure on your specific question, but this may be a PATS issue. Though I though with PATS, it only disables the fuel pump.

Hi and thx for the reply. Yes, after further research, I believe it is PATS related. Symptoms point to PATS; theft light begins to flash rapidly when turning to ON position. If I wait, will eventually see the code produced by the light which is code 15. Transceiver not identifying the key. Thought it may be a bad key but does the same with the spare key. I’m curious if the transceiver wiring may have a weak wire? This has happened before, and I believe during cold weather, but would eventually start again, thus leading me to believe it was the NSS or bad starter connection(s).

 

[magicd]

Hi and thx for the reply. Yes, after further research, I believe it is PATS related. Symptoms point to PATS; theft light begins to flash rapidly when turning to ON position. If I wait, will eventually see the code produced by the light which is code 15. Transceiver not identifying the key. Thought it may be a bad key but does the same with the spare key. I’m curious if the transceiver wiring may have a weak wire? This has happened before, and I believe during cold weather, but would eventually start again, thus leading me to believe it was the NSS or bad starter connection(s).

Hey all, I’m attempting to remove the PATS transceiver in my 2004 Explorer. Unlike the 2005, I do not see a screw that needs to be removed so it may slide off of the ignition cylinder. Is it possible it may be a bayonet type which may be twisted then slid off? Attached is a pic.

 

[Number4]

Can’t help, but if you have a wrecking yard near by, it’s a great place to figure stuff out without destroying your car.

 

[magicd]

Hey all, I’m attempting to remove the PATS transceiver in my 2004 Explorer. Unlike the 2005, I do not see a screw that needs to be removed so it may slide off of the ignition cylinder. Is it possible it may be a bayonet type which may be twisted then slid off? Attached is a pic.

View attachment 426083

Ok, so I swapped out the PATS transceiver and no change, still won’t crank, still giving a code 15.
One thing I did discover. Before swapping out the transceiver, I performed some circuitry tests and found that the resistance from the transceiver ground wire(black/light blue) to the ground location G300 was around 50 ohms (should be close to zero). Thinking that maybe there was a bad connection at the grounding bolt, I snipped the wires (there are two black/light blue wires that are grounded at G300), removed a bit of sheathing. Did a continuity test on both to determine which one of the two was linked to the transceiver. All good, got a reading of zero on the one, then attached both under the grounding bolt and tightened it up. Great, now had a reading of 0 ohms between transceiver connector and grounding bolt head. This did not change anything, still no crank. BUT, after attempting to start, noticed the resistance on the ground wire was again up around 40ohms. Figured maybe the contact wasn’t good enough, removed the ground bolt, repositioned the ground wire ends, and tightened back up. Got a reading of 0 ohms again, however, after again attempting to start (again with no success), the resistance again changed to approx 40 ohms. As I understand, the ground wire travels from the transceiver, then is spliced with two additional grounds (one from the instrument panel, other can’t recall) then to a connector, then to G300.
What causes the resistance to change from 0 to 40 ohms after attempting to start?