OD "shudder" on engagement... Opinions?

[pj8847]

OD "shudder" on engagement... Opinions? **Solved**

Hey all, been a while since I posted here, mostly because I been laid up with a blown out knee...

Anyways, as the title says, I'm recently experiencing a "shudder" when the tranny (4r55e) in my '95 4.0l OHV explorer "shifts" into OD.

Now the tranny has always had the typical delay shifting into drive and reverse, but that has never been an issue. All gears engage fine, 1st is solid, off the line I spin the tires on my truck if i put the pedal to the floor (mind you, these are 31x11.50 rubbers) regardless if the ground I'm on is wet/dry, dirt, asphalt or concrete. 2nd, 3rd and reverse, again, all solid... It is just "OD" that I'm noticing the problem with.

I can replicate the symptoms on command: I get up to speed in third, to about 45mph (on the spedo, this is a note that will be addressed shortly), and OD will kick in... BUT if I am on the slightest incline, it will "shudder" going into OD, and I have to back off the pedal, and get back on it immediately and the shudder goes away. If I give it more gas when the shudder starts, it increases in direct relation to just how much more pedal i put into it. (I haven't pushed it to hard, as i don't need to blow up the dang thing)

At this point I'm trying to figure out the best place to start, as the tranny only has about 80k on it, and it was a NEW unit from ford themselves. I don't have a problem removing it from the truck and tearing it down, but before I do that, maybe someone might have a different thought as to what may be the problem.

NOTE: Two other things I thought I would mention...

First being, I obviously am not running the stock tire size, so i know the speedo is off by roughly 10mph @ 50mph (meaning, the spedo reads 50, but my GPS says I'm going about 60). Could me being to lazy to get the spedo corrected play a role in the shift patterns of the tranny being a bit off, thus creating a problem?

Secondly, I have also noticed recently, when coming to a stop, as the tranny kicks down to first gear, there is a slight "thunk" and the activation of my ABS system for a second. Unsure as to this having anything to do with the problem, it just may be another problem I'll have to deal with soon, probably T-case if anything, most would think U-Joints, but those are solid.

Ok, that's about it, fire away with your thoughts/questions, I'll try to answer what I can, and take all opinions into consideration BEFORE I rip into the tranny, although I'm hoping I won't have to.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I don't suspect that you need any major transmission work. Some models use the same sensor for the speed, and ABS, so the problem might be related to that sensor. Do you have this sensor on your differential? The PCM needs to calculate your speed for controlling the shift points on this transmission, so the transmission sounds like it is not getting the proper control from the PCM from what you are describing. If you have not replaced your fluid, and filter in 80K miles, then it is now a good time.

 

[bender]

I wish i could be more help but i had the exact same symptoms with my OD shifts, on an incline, slight throttle, shudder, and i cannot recall what the tranny shop did, they tightened if i recall correctly, some springs or valves, making the shifts firmer...I also added a bottle of GM friction modifier (yes for a differential) to the tranny fluid. the problem went away and drove fine on the original tranny for the 2+ years i had it after that fix.

total cost was like $7.50 for the friction modifier, as the tranny shop did not charge me for their work.

good luck

 

[Glacier991]

I'd add a bottle of Lubegard... AFTER I replaced the fluid. Often shudder is fluid related.

 

[pj8847]

sorry for the delay in replying, was catching up on some much needed rest.
I also need to correct the info on the tranny mileage, it has about 40k, not 80k, ( I was half asleep while typing, and was thinking of my other car... )

Brooklyn: Yes, I do have the ABS sensor on the diff, and my speed sensor is in the tail of the T-case. Both were replaced when i redid the entire drivetrain, (new motor, tranny, diffs, u-joints, d-shafts, t-case, etc...) but either of the two sensors could be going, or both. I am meticulous with the tune ups and fluid changes, tranny gets a full flush every 20k, give or take a few hundred miles, (it's due as we speak, I'll be doing the filter as well) engine oil+filter is changed every 3k, regardless if it needs it or not, and i do a full inspection of the body, suspension, electrical, brakes, etc... every 3 months. (which has recently alerted me to having to do both lower b-joints and get an alignment, as well as a possible RF halfshaft/CV joint, again... #$%@ autozone... :fire: ) I do all of this specifically because my kids ride in my vehicles all the time, so i make sure everything is up to par when it comes to their safety, as i don't ever want/need to get stuck on the side of a road/hiway somewhere and have some retard in their rice burner come speeding by and slam into me/kids/vehicle because they were not paying attention... (Happens quite often where I live/drive, mostly because of CELL PHONES!)

Bender: It's quite possible they may have adjusted the bands, and I have thought of that as well, seeing only my OD seems to be the problem, I may get under there and check them first (provided I can actually get under the truck with my knee all screwed up).

Glacier991: I've been thinking about that for a while, but I never liked adding anything to the fluids. Speaking of fluids, I am also looking into the possability that the place I had my last flush @ used cheap garbage with an additive. any time I have to have a shop do something, i stick around and make sure they use exactly what I want them to, but on the last flush, I had to run off for 2 hours to take care of some things, and the truck was done by the time I got back. I asked them what they put in, they said Merc V, and that is what they charged me for... but I have been doubting that since I had to drain a bit (using a suction pump down the dipstick tube) because they overfilled it. the fluid that came out, although apparently fresh, smelled a bit funky, not like the smell of fresh Merc V. It's hard to explain, but it wasn't a smell I was used to after a fresh flush and fill. (at this point in time, my fluid is still nice and clean, no apparent metal bits or flakes, doesn't smell burnt... but still has that faint funky smell that was there when it was first done... it also appears to be a very slight bit thinner than it should be? I guess you have to be there and actually see/smell what I'm talking about)

As i said, I'm looking into every possible fork in the road before I decide which path to take, I have always felt that thorough diagnostics will always result in any repair being done correctly ( the whole "measure twice, cut once" line of thinking). At this point, I know first things I'll be doing is checking the sensors and the band adjustments, as well as getting the tranny flushed and filter changed, and maybe check the TPS, which a buddy of mine suggested I test as well (I completely forgot about that sensor).

P.S. I also checked the system for codes today in all operating modes, nothing stored in memory, no faults for KOER/KOEO, so far, everything is A-OK according to the computer. I'm hoping to figure this out before my knee surgery is scheduled (whenever that is... Insurance companies love to take their sweet ass time authorizing things like this), because once i have it, i'll be off my feet for quite a bit, and once I'm able to walk again, getting under the truck will still be off limits for a while. (asked doc today... :fire: )
Oh, and sorry for the "long winded" rants, it really sucks not being able to get out and walk arround, I'm about to loose my mind...lol

 

[pj8847]

OK, I have an update... not good though...

I decided to experiment and see if the tranny did the "shudder" in 1st, 2nd, 3rd by finding a decent hill and gradually giving it gas, and checking each gear. All 3 passed no problem... UNTIL I had TC lockup in 3rd. So apparently, I've narrowed down the shudder to rearing it's ugly head ONLY on TC lockup.

Now the not so good part. did a partial change of fluid and refilled with fresh to the specified level, filter was clean, all was ok, all gears engaged fine, shudder still there on tc lockup in third and OD though. so I brought the truck back home and removed 1 quart of fluid, and replaced it with the only additive I have ever used in a tranny, Lucas tranny conditioner. ( Now i use this stuff in my 425hp sb camaro with a custom turbo 400 short tail, and it is PHENOMINAL, I used to get slippage in the tranny from all the HP, but adding the Lucas to the fluid stopped it in its tracks, tranny shifts as it was designed to... HARD,(so hard in fact I've blown up 2 diffs since last summer because of it, heh heh) with no slippage, dumping the pedal into the floor will break your neck if your not ready for it, in ANY gear...)

OK, so I added the Lucas, and since it is like syrup (since it was a bit chilly) I set up the bottle with a hose and hung it from the hood. (basically looked as though the truck was getting an IV..heh heh) and let it slowly drain itself down the dipstick tube. The entire time the truck was running and in Neutral with the parking brake on, so the tranny was hot, which means the Lucas, once hitting the hot fluid, would thin right up and mix in, which it did just fine.

OK, bottle done, (after about an HOUR! the hose was a bit narrow, so that didn't help much...) I then proceeded to do what anyone normally would do, and move the gear selector between the different gears to circulate the fluid. All was fine, level in tranny perfect. I went from park, to 1, to R, to1, to R to 2, to R to D, back to R, then Park. In between each step, I waited about 30 seconds, all was ok, actually, the "delay" in engagement I've gotten so used to, pretty much dissappeared!. Shut the truck off and went in to clean up my hands, etc...( takes me forever to move about, so it was a good half hour, 45 mins) came back out and figured I'd take the truck out for a spin. Get in, start her up, put it in reverse... NOTHING! NO $#@% REVERSE now... 1st is ok, I have tranny braking leaving it in 1st, 2nd is ok, again, tranny braking, 2nd is holding, third is fine, until TC lockup... shudder still there, as well as in OD...damnit!

BTW, sensors are all fine, fluid is clean, no metal bits, NO signs of anything in the pan... UGHHHH, I'm stumped. Now I'm thinking I have to drop the VB and check that, reverse going dead while the truck was off makes no sense.

I'm going to adjust the intermediate and the OD band maybe tomorrow, as well as drop the VB out and see if i blew something, unless someone has any thoughts. Something is not right on TC Lockup, and now reverse is out? I'll keep this updated as i progress, (probably into a total teardown and rebuild, and if that's the case, I'll need input from the tranny gurus here on where to get all the hard parts and friction materials from, because if I tear it down, I want to be sure only the best goes back into it, and if i do it myself, it will be a hell of alot cheaper...)

And here i though I was going to loose it before...heh heh, well, at least I have something to do now...

 

[BrooklynBay]

I read your post mentioning that you have Mercon V in your transmission. It is supposed to be used on 97, and up vehicles. Check this link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1348273&postcount=10

 

[pj8847]

Using Merc V in my transmission should not be a problem. As far as I know Merc V can be used in any tranny that requires mercon, although the oposite would be a problem (eg. using just Merc in a tranny that specifically calls for Merc V).

I've run it this way since I got the truck, and the previous owner did as well (I'm second owner).

The problems just popped up from nowhere, no symptoms before hand, and the reverse going out happened while the truck was off.

Like I said, I'm stumped as to what the problem is.

Newest update so far:

I took the truck out again today, no reverse, like it's in neutral. Took the truck on the highway and apparently the additive I put in has calmed the shudder a little bit, it's not as bad, and the shifts are super firm now, BUT, no reverse, and the shudder still remains only on TC lockup.

I'm now thinking my TC may be the culprit as far as the shudder, but I have no explaination to why reverse won't engage. I did notice this morning when i started the truck up, there was a high pitched "buzz" coming from the TC when i tried reverse, but it went away as soon as i shifted into any other gear or park, and it completely dissappeared when the truck warmed up. Best way to describe the sound is, take a piece of paper, and just let the corner of that piece of paper touch the blades of a spinning fan in your computer. That is almost exactly how it sounded. Another note, I can hear a very faint hissing sound while the tranny is in reverse coming from the pan. May be possible I blew the VB gasket, I don't know, until i drop the pan and VB, but that doesn't look like it's going to happen right now since I really can't get under the truck. (to much pain getting under there, then getting back up. My knee just can't take it... torn ACL, destroyed meniscus, slightly torn PCL and numerous stress fractures to the head of the femur and tibia, and some tendon damage...ugghhh, and surgery nowhere in sight ...yet...)

The truck flies on the highway, I had her up to 90mph today (no traffic) and the tranny felt solid, all shifts were firmer than they have ever been, BUT, a slight incline, TC lockup and a little bit of throttle, and i get that damn shudder. I'm at a loss, it just doesn't make any sense, especially reverse being "dead".

 

[BrooklynBay]

A lack of reverse could be valve body related, or might be related to the rear band, but then you wouldn't have 1st either. The rear piston (low/reverse servo) engages the rear band.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check these 2 links for more information:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166488
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159680

 

[pj8847]

Well, after trying to get a simple pan gasket, which every autoparts store in my area seem to have to order all of a sudden, and hitting a brick wall with anyone in the area either not wanting to give me a copy of some diagrams and exact info pertaining to the VB, or finding a book for the damn tranny. I've pretty much had it.

The wife and I were talking and apparently the truck has had enough money dumped into it and it has served it's purpose. With a rebuild costing in the area of $2000+ (and all the sleezy shops that claim to do a full rebuild, but don't) and a NEW one costing even more, even worse, ford, nor any of the "shops" wanting to warantee the damn thing unless they install it... for $500+ more, of course, I'm not about to put another tranny in this thing @ the prices these ripoff artists are asking, ONCE was enough, and i can't rebuild it myself due to my current situation with my knee. It would appear that the truck has seen it's last days on the road.

I just don't understand wtf could have went wrong with a ford unit that was NEW, and had only reached approx. 40k, and was WELL taken care of and maintained...

Unless I can grab a working tranny for cheap, looks as though it's going to get sold off as is, or parted out. (I'd rather it all go in one shot, although I'd be happier taking out my frustration by torching the %$#@ing thing and watching it burn...)

Time to cut my losses and go back to GM, never had any problems like this...

 

[BrooklynBay]

Don't rely on a dealership to provide any information, or diagrams. They are only there to make money. If they gave out free advice, they wouldn't make anything. If you want to learn more about this transmission, then you could start with the 5R55E valve body rebuild diary, and diagrams in the photo gallery. Here is a general diagram of its components from Glacier991's photo gallery:

You could get the Ford 3 ring binder, and an ATSG manual for more information.

 

[pj8847]

OK, after taking a step back and relaxing a bit, I took another stab at my situation. I appologize to anyone for my rants, it's been a bad, bad couple of weeks for me, and the truck going down made it that much worse.

Now I have read pretty much every tranny thread on the forum and I'm thorougly convinced I don't have an internal failure in the tranny.

Being that first engages solidly in the "1" or "low" position, I can rule out the low/reverse band/servo being the culprit of my lack of reverse, being that it's the same mechanism that controls both. Furthermore, all gears (aside from reverse) engage solidly, That would rule out the intermediate band/servo, forward clutch, etc...

Now OD is a problem with the shudder, BUT if I allow the RPM's to increase to a slightly higher level, thus preventing TC lockup in 3rd, OD locks in fine as well, which rules out the OD band and related functions.

The shudder in 3rd when the TC locks up and I accelerate just a bit buggs me, and I know, whatever is causing 3rd to shudder, is the same culprit that is causing OD to shudder on TC lockup. I'm thinking I need to correct my speedometer issue, as I believe I'm getting TC lockup to soon due to the computer getting the wrong speed info, thus, telling the tranny and TC to shift and lock up at the wrong times.

As far as reverse, I'm inclined to think I have a failure in the VB, (specifically, the reverse modulator valve), or the TC has bit the dust, (since it is making that weird high pitched buzzing in reverse, upon accelleration, only when cold though....) as I don't believe the reverse clutch went bad while the truck was off... seeing that reverse would engage solid previously to it going "dead".

Today I'm going to try and get my hands on a pressure gauge and find out what the pressures are for each gear selection, as low pressures will also result in some of what i'm experiencing, (from what I've read, and previous knowledge). The EPC and TCC solenoids are another point I'm going to have to look at, seeing I always had a delay in gear engagement regardless if it was forward or reverse, since the tranny was new, could be causing a low pressure condition.(I'm unsure now if FORD acually gave me a NEW unit, or screwed me with a REBUILD, and if it was in fact a rebuild, there is no telling if the solenoids were new, or the original used ones that were in whatever tranny they decided to stick me with. I only say this because, they gave me a new "supposedly" complete motor, but used most, if not all of my original electronics, such as sensors and my fuel injectors, that were supossed to be replaced WITH the motor, which i had to replace recently due to them failing.) The dealer I had this all done at closed it's doors not to long after i had the work done, (after this fiasco, it's a no brainer as to why) and the property was converted to a koren market/condo building, so I was SOL as far as getting them to fix anything...

The TC was replaced with the tranny, and if they used either my original, or supplied their own ( which could have been new, or could have been used and checked out "good") that could explain why it may have gone (if in fact it has) only after 40k.

As soon as i get the pressure readings, I'll post them up, until then, I hope someone can jump in here and correct anything i may be wrong about, or add something I may have missed.

Last note, and i'll stop rambling... I wonder if adding the lucas, and it being so thick, if it was picked up and somehow jammed the reverse modulator open/closed? What would be the result of the reverse modulator valve being stuck open/closed respectively? Anyone?

Thanks again for the help so far, I appreciate it!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Even though the Lucas additive is thick, it will not clog anything up. It blends into the ATF.

 

[pj8847]

OK, I tried getting a pressure gauge... no good... no one had one to sell OR borrow, so I'm SOL on that front. I also figured I'd share one last longwinded rant, then I'll keep future post to a shorter format of just the specifics...

I also, for the hell of it, stopped by a shop a buddy of mine recomended to check the tranny. He called ahead and told the guys he knows there I was on the way. I decided to play stupid and see what their diagnosis was. The guy there wanted to take it out for a test drive, to which I said no problem, but he didn't want me to come along. I told him that wasn't happening, that I'd be going along, or he could just ride with me and I'LL drive... he reluctantly agreed, but claimed that since he wasn't going to drive it, he may not be able to "help". Seemed to have an attitude about it from the start. Before going out I asked him what it was going to cost for the "check", he replied "don't worry about it". SOOO...Driving around a bit, I experienced no shudder, in 3rd or OD, figures... but obviously reverse still doesn't work.

After about 15-20 mins of driving, and another 15 waiting for the idiot to come back out of the shop after getting back and him going to "confer" with the other guys in the shop, he proceeds to tell me I'll probably need a full rebuild, (I expected this). According to him, it was in his "honest professional opinion" that the reverse band was completely shot, and it "probably" took out some internals inside the tranny. I asked him how did he come to that conclusion, and he basically said that when any tranny loses reverse, it's almost 100% of the time, the band failure, and that my particular tranny was prone to it. I asked him 3 times if he was sure, that it could be nothing else, then asked how much... $2400 + removal & install, and IF i wanted a new TC with it, an additional $500. I was like WHAT??!!!!! He told me that was a GOOD deal, that normally it would be more, told him he must be $#@%ing joking, and that i wanted to know the place he was taking me to dinner before I allowed him to screw me like that. That's when his shop buddies came to "join" the conversation.

At that point, I stopped playing stupid with him and explained why he was wrong, and the fact I didn't appreciate him trying to rip me off, and that he was a $#@%ing idiot trying that BS. He just kept telling me I had no idea what i was talking about, that I, and anyone else who agrees with me is wrong, that I was the $#@%ing idiot, and that for him coming out for the "ride", it was going to cost me $60 now! I told him if he wanted the $60, he would have to come take it out of my wallet himself, and tossed my cane into the truck. (at that point they all just backed off, as i'm no small guy @ 6'5"-290lbs... without the cane...lol, and they knew I wasn't in the mood for their crap) I then got back in the truck, and left while giving the proper 1 finger salute to him and the rest of the shop..heh heh. Called my buddy up to tell him what happened, and he was pissed, they knew I was coming and were supposed to "hook me up" with a deal... some deal... $#@%ing morons... Only in NYC... I'd be better off going out of state to PA. or CT. to get a good deal...

Anyways, it appears the "shudder" has gone (for now), and i'm left with the damn no reverse problem that came out of nowhere. I'm going to have to order what I need online, since i can't get anything locally it seems, which would be the ford updated S-plate and gaskets, and while I'm at it, might as well do the superior shift correct kit, sonnax boost valve, EPC and TCC solenoids. Also need the updated double lip seal for the reverse servo, pan gasket ( I believe there is an updated "fiber" one rather than the standard cork?) ohh, and a drain plug...I never did like the taste of tranny fluid... doesn't go well with tuna salad (or whatever else I happen to have out at the truck to eat while I work...)

I figure it can't hurt, and I'd replace those parts anyway if I had to do a full rebuild, and if I decide not to, I can always sell the VB to make back my dough.

Now all I need is a SINGLE place to order it all from, so I can get it overnight...hopefully, as my ability to get this going can change with just a phone call... or a wrong slip on my leg...

So... any ONE place I can grab what I need in one shot? and please feel free to add anything else I may need.

Thanks for putting up with me this long, I appreciate it... at least I know, no one here will try to scam me.

 

[pj8847]

I was just cruising e-bay, (for the hell of it) and found this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4R55...hZ019QQitemZ8031125934QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

What does everyone/anyone think?

 

[BrooklynBay]

WWW.Eppys.Com has transmission testing gauges. They are located in Brooklyn. Maybe you should try to rebuild your valve body first, unless you feel more comfortable buying one that is already tested. That guy has good feedback, and an 800 number, so you might want to call first just to see what kind of place they are. He also has an option for submitting an offer. You could ask them what their best price would be, how long the warranty is for, and if they need your old one as a rebuildable core.

 

[pj8847]

Since the truck is down (I'd rather not drive it if I don't have to, to prevent any further damage), going into brooklyn to grab just a gauge is a bit out of the way. I'd take my other car, but I'd have to fill up twice just getting there, and I'd probably get pulled over several times on the way (happens every time I take the camaro out, don't know what it is, but usually something about the speed limit, the loud exhaust, and they always seem to want me to pop the hood to see what the hell I'm running under it... which usually results in them forgetting about writing a ticket.)

I'm definitely going to rebuid my own VB. Just need to find where to get everything all @ once, But It's nice to know there are alternatives in the event I can't.

It will cost me the same maybe a bit less since I'll only be replacing the 2 solenoids, not all, and it will be better since I'll be installing the superior kit.

The VB on e-bay has a core charge of $100 if the core isn't sent back within 15 days, not a bad deal, not getting charged up front for it. I e-mailed them this morning and asked if the solenoids were new, and if they could supply the VB with the superior kit and ford TSB already done, in conjunction with the sonnax boost valve, no reply as of yet.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Try calling their 800 number. Some people are pretty slow in responding to emails (if they ever reply at all). I've tried to contact several people by email, and never got any response. Sometimes I managed to get them on the phone. Some people were OK, others were very reluctant to say much. One person was impossible to get through email, and their contact phone # was disconnected, or probably never worked in the first place.

 

[pj8847]

Friday the 13th and all is friggin great!!!

well, Thankfully I fixed the tranny. Couldn't stand looking at it anymore, and I couldn't wait for anything to be shipped, so I improvised.

I had some parts laying around from a few GM trannies, ( micellaneous o-rings and crap) and I went to the dealer and got the separator plate gaskets, (I wanted the gaskets, the plate, and the o-rings for the reverse servo as well... but... according to them, the separator plate and the reverse servo are DISCONTINUED and can't be ordered, although I gave them the #'s and they claimed they were the wrong ones, and refused to sell them to me. the system they were running looked as if it were from 10 yrs ago...), they also told me they ONLY came WITH the VB if I bought one.. I asked how much....$800 friggin BUCKS!!! I told him just gimme the damn gaskets and piss off. Came back home and dropped the VB, only to find every single bolt wasn't torqed down AT ALL, several I spun out with my fingers and the rest just needed a slight tweak and out they popped. (I should have checked them when I was in there last time... DOHHHH!)

When I dropped the reverse servo cover I found i could not move the piston at all. Finally got it out to find a nasty gouge in it (the upper smaller diameter part with the smaller o-ring) and in the bore itself.

Apparently this WAS NOT a NEW tranny that I paid for, and got from ford (I'm looking into what I can do to recover some of what I paid for it starting monday, I think they owe me roughly $800 - $900, and the place that put it in WAS a ford stealership... I asked the dealer how much a rebuild is today, and was told $2100, without install, new, $3000, just tranny) it was a rebuild, and the gaskets were not OEM and definitely screwed. One good point about it which I was shocked to find, a shift kit apparently was ALREADY installed, (plate was definitely drilled), and it already had an upgraded boost valve?! Definitely wasn't the stocker! looked almost like the sonnax, Might have been and older version or another company? and looking up into the openings for the bands, everything I could see seemed to be in great shape. One thing I was curious about, what color are the bands normally? from what i could see, (not much, but enough) mine appear to be green. I thought they are supossed to be red/brown or black?

Anyways, Nice huh, ok, so not so bad, I ripped it all apart (the VB) down to the bare body, parts everywhere...lol and painstakingly cleaned and inspected every bore, valve, solenoid, retainer, o-ring, spring... you get the picture, ( mind you, getting some of the bores empty was a real pain in the ass!) after finding a small piece of o-ring lodged within the reverse modulator valve bore (yup, reverse was out because of TWO problems, I have no idea where this piece of o-ring came from, probably last rebuild) I reassembled the whole thing and got to work on the reverse servo and bore.

Since it was gouged to ****, bad enough that the smaller o-ring was wrecked from it, I inspected the bore to find bits of casting towards the top where the rod goes in to engage the band. Apparently the case wasn't machined perfectly and a small piece broke off and wedged itself between the servo piston and the bore, doing its damage. (I got the piece) great I thought, now what, that is when I realized, I'll attempt to sleeve it! So I broke out my small hone that is used for wheel cylinders and went to work taking about .010-.015 ( I'm estimating, everything was by eye and feel, it may have been more) out of the bore all around, nice and slow. Took forever... I also removed any loose casting material that was left. (I didn't measure it before, although it was probably stock dimensions) I went into my basement where I had (this is where i improvised) closet rod ( I think it was a closet rod, it may have been from a table as well, not sure)... steel, whatever it was, to be exact. Of course it was hollow, and the walls were fairly thin, perfect for my needs. I had honed enough out of the bore that it fit in VERY tight (had to be popped in with a makeshift installer and mallet, ok, it was very tight! and I guess I was one lucky ****) I then had to hone the sleeve itself a little bit to get the piston to slide up in nice and snug, ( which took even longer than the bore itself!) then finished it off with 1000 grit wet sandpaper wrapped around the heads of the hone (what a pain in the ass!) and finalized it with my dremel, a small polishing wheel, and some polishing compound. Looked like brand new! I even ground down and polished the edge CAREFULLY so that it matched the chamfer (spelling?) of the bore.

I already had done the servo and lightly touched up the spots where it was gouged to remove the burrs and smooth it out. Once that was done I dug into my box of parts and found a nice fat o-ring that fit the job nicely. (never get rid of anything!... heh heh)

With that done, i slapped the VB up, torqed it down, installed the servo piston/rod, went up very smooth, had fluid movement, but needed firm pressure, it was like butter... (BTW, the rod on the servo piston had A single band around it, that makes it the shortest of three if I remember correctly? AND, there was NO spring installed... but I remedied that, IDIOTS!)

Bolted up the servo cover and installed the filter (FYI, PUROLATOR has a filter IDENTICAL to the fram microfiber one, I wouldn't settle for anything less, but no one by me had any frams in stock...so I started going through all the boxes at the autoparts, drove the chick behind the counter MAD... but I gave her $5 for the hassle and she was cool...heh heh. the purolator also comes with BOTH o-rings, the bolt/spacer AND a new RE-USABLE pan gasket, all for 16 clams... Not bad at all! (I think she may have given me a discount, not sure...)

With the pan bolted up I dropped in 4 quarts and prayed to the automotive gods that it would work while giving the truck the sign of the cross... Started her up, let her run for 5 mins at idle, then tried her out....ummmm...no gears at ALL! thats when i realized, The nose of the truck was way up in the air on ramps (old steel ramps, with some Serious height to them, so, I pulled my cripple ass out of the truck, half in the door,half out, pushed with my good leg, while barely holding the brake with my bad one (that was painful) and got the truck down off the ramps. Checked the fluid, nothing showing on the stick, thats when i realized alot more than 4 quarts had drained out, so I added one. The fifth quart got forward to just barely engage, but no reverse, I was like...oh crap... checked again, still nothing on the stick, so i dropped in 2 more, and the level finally showed, but a bit to high, got back in the truck and put her in D, she engaged the second the shifter clicked onto D, I then tried reverse...

UREKA!!! friggin reverse kicked in with such a hard lock I almost wet myself...LOL I'll be damned, it's working! So I went back and forth through all the gears with not one bit of delay at all, SWEET! Solid, positive engagment in all gears! I checked the level again and it had settled down to a perfect level.. I was DONE! So, one orphan o-ring, a cut off piece of hollow steel closet rod/table leg/patio umbrella rod?( still don't know what the hell it was too, hope the wife didn't need it...), a wheel cylinder hone, dremel, some well spent time and 7 quarts of fluid later, I'm back up and runnin... WAY better that it ever was before! And on FRIDAY THE 13th, My lucky day! ( I usually find money, never fails, guess today I found a savings of $2000+...lol I'm not complaining!) Took her out and gave her a good drive, it's like i have a new tranny in it!

THANKS for the help guys! and thanks to those who write extreamly well diaries and logs of there work. I hope to go elite within the week to show my appreciation. I was a staight up GM tranny guy, but now My knowledge has expanded thanks to many here, and I can add ford to the list. (DL-ing the ford cd from the link provided ^^^ in the stickies didn't hurt either!)

THANKS AGAIN!

P.S. I wanted to snap pictures of the "machining" work I did, but I couldn't find my damn camera, after squawking at the wife about it ( she usually takes my stuff and puts it where i can't find it) and it was all done and working, I went into my glove box to grab a pack of smokes, (I keep an extra pack there, and I needed one!) guess what I find? the damn CAMERA! DAMNIT! (I may pull the pan in a few weeks, to check out the servo "fix" and make sure its ok, not sure how the heat/pressure is going to affect it, if i do, i'll snap a few then.) G'NITE!