rear Diff pinion seal replacement question

[mkc1962]

I'm new to this forumn and have already done quite a bit of browsing the archives, but still have a question. My 97 mountaineer needed a rear Diff pinion seal replaced. I have gotten the old one out and the new one in. I understand the torque adjustments, bearing preload, etc....however when replacing the companion flange I am at a bit of confusion...Now it took a puller with quite a bit of grunt to get this thing off, so it only seems to me it takes quite a bit to get it back on... but in several procedures I have read the following

Rear Axle Companion Flange Installation

1. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the rear axle universal joint flange shaft splines. Align the mark on the rear axle companion flange with the mark on the drive pinion shaft. Install the rear axle companion flange using Companion Flange Replacer TOOL-4858-E or equivalent.

2. Install a new pinion nut on the pinion stem.

3. Note: If a new rear axle companion flange is being installed, disregard the scribe mark on the drive pinion shaft.

Note: The rear axle companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools.

My question = This flange does not just slide on nice and easy, it takes quite a bit of grunt to get it back on, and obviously I dont have this TOOL-4858, what the trick?

I saw one post that mentioned taking it off and putting it back on using an impact wrench. Can one use an air impact wrench at its lowest setting, with using the pinion nut to get the flange back on? then as it nears bottom finish the torque with the manual torque wrench? afterall the avg torque is 160 ft lbs before taking rotational torqe readings.

Sure would like to finish the project but dont wanna make any mistakes.

Many thanks
MIke Crawford
Selma, Al

 

[CDW6212R]

Companion flange, is that referring to the diff. side of the u-joint?

Assuming that, you should have marked the two parts. Those marks, and marks on the pinion nut are the best way to reinstall the parts. Tighten the pinion nut with a ratchet and breaker bar, if at all possible. It is very hard to set the nut right with an impact wrench.

Officially, the pinion nut, etc. are supposed to be replaced every time. Virtually no one does that, unless the entire unit is out and being rebuilt. Virtually everyone reinstalls the parts by first marking their initial locations. The nut and pinion shaft need to be marked before removing the nut.

This procedure obviously only works well if the pinion shaft play was correct to start with. If not, then a new crush sleeve and nut should be installed to the correct torque. Good luck,

 

[Creager]

You should be able to slide it on and off by hand. Yes it takes some grunt...

Ive tried to use the pinion nut to drive the flange on, its not the best solution. It makes things somewhat vauge when you get down to setting the preload, but it works. Ive hammered it on with a rubber mallet, but thats difficult if you dont have the carrier out.

Ive been told by certin shops the exact opposite of what your directions say

The rear axle companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools.

when i was first learning to install these things, i was told it was unwise to use a breaker bar and to make sure i use an impact. Otherwise i would never get the pinion flange/bearings to seat right with out the hammering of the impact. 'Sure' i thought, although i never used the impact on the pinion nut.

Finding a new pinion nut is project in itself. Napa or likewise doesnt carry it, and none of these stores will understand why you need a new one. Driveline shops might carry them, i had to get mine straight from ford.

Use the old nut to set your preload. When you have gotten your preload to where you like it, remove the old nut and replace it with the new one. The treads supposedy taper on the pinion nut, although ive never witnessed this.

 

[CDW6212R]

Agreed Creager, the real confusion for people is that the methods for doing the work with all new parts is different from using the original crush sleeve, etc. If there is any worry of the parts being worn out, or otherwise not in excellent condition, replacing the wear parts is necessary.

I commonly do work ahead of needed maintenance, before anything goes wrong. Regards,

 

[mkc1962]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the input. Sorry for the slow reply on my end, I got called out of town the next morning after the post and just got back tonight.

CDW....pre check on torque was just fine, and yes marked parts....but that flange will not go back on howwever hard I try by hand, sure it will start but getting it to slide all the way back down the splines is near impossible....I've started taking it back down with a torque wrench and it took near 60 lbs of toruque to assist it in going down without making the wrench also pop....as for your bottom post I am much the same, I very rarely have anything fail...very pre fail maintenance here....I actually found this problem as I was checking spare air prior to a road trip....needless to say the trip to the mtns was in the wifes car

creager....it took a gear puller and near 80 lbs of torque to get tha monster off...by hand?...no way at all on this one...hence why I was asking was it ok to reinstall teh same way....sounds good on the other as I figured ford was the only source....as for the taper, the only thing I saw was the fact the inside of the nut appeared to have some sort of locktight applied to it...regardless which way the nut screws on, torque is same to me that means it is probably not tapered.

Thanks again guys.....will try agian tomorrow...hopefully ford may have a new nut and I havent taken the srush washer too far.

Mike Crawford
Selma, Al

 

[MalcolmV8]

When I rebuilt my 8.8" I purchased a two disk DVD set that walks you through the entire procedure. His name was Ken and he called his company / production Bad Shoe Productions. You can probably google it. Anyhow he's been a certified Ford tech for over 20 years and really knows what he's doing.
He says in the DVD to NEVER put an impact gun on the pinion nut. He says there's a good chance you'll damage the bearings if I remember correctly (been a year or two since I did this). I'm trying to remember how he showed to get the flange on and I think it was just by tightening down the nut but don't quote me on that part.

 

[Creager]

creager....it took a gear puller and near 80 lbs of torque to get tha monster off...by hand?...no way at all on this one...hence why I was asking was it ok to reinstall teh same way....sounds good on the other as I figured ford was the only source....as for the taper, the only thing I saw was the fact the inside of the nut appeared to have some sort of locktight applied to it...regardless which way the nut screws on, torque is same to me that means it is probably not tapered.

Make sure you get some anti-seize on those splines. it should NOT be that tough.

i dont believe it tapers either, although its still smart to use a new nut on your final assembly.

 

[mkc1962]

Malcolm,

Thanks for the input and will check out your source out of curiousity.

Creager,

Did use antiseize,good point....believe in the stuff, however still took 80 ft lbs of pressure to get it on. I actually went to my local ford dealer yesterday to get a new nut. I asked a tech that has worked there for near 20 years what they do. His exact words were such...once drive shaft is removed, they zip off old nut with impact wrench, 99% of the time use a puller to remove flange, very occasionaly one comes off by hand. To replace flange they spin nut on with same impact wrench at its lowest setting till it just stops, using the nut to draw the flange down, then they remove nut, apply locktite and torque to 160 ft lbs. The say they never check rotational torque (bearing preload), nor do they replace the nut UNLESS they are replacing the gear set. I did ask about the procedure as a whole, and they did agree that the procedure does say to do that, however they have never had a failure related to the way they do it.
I've put mine back together using mostly what you guys have said here, and part of what they/(ford) had to say....I replaced the nut!...and did check the torque/preload but all was ok.

so many idea/opinions on one thing = odd....well drove it near 100 miles to work this morning and all seems ok.

Thansk again guys for the input and help!

 

[Creager]

so many idea/opinions on one thing = odd....well drove it near 100 miles to work this morning and all seems ok.

thats probably why a lot of people get the impression that this is too difficult of a job to tackle themselves. Setting up a gear set that is...