Rear liftgate won't open

[tuttotin]

I have a 1998 explorer and the rear lift gate won't open. I think something inside may have come loose and the key won't work. Where and how can i remove the inside panels to be able to fix this ?

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

make shure that the lock mechiism is working....i have struggled with mine periodilly...usually i will just pull up on the little pin that is outside the cover for the inside of the rear hatch(the black thing)....

 

[gijoecam]

Keep in mind that the tailgate for a 98 is completely different than the gate for a 96.

As for the 98, does the handle feel like it pops the latch, or does the handle act like it's not unlocking? Does the key work to unlock the lock? It could be as simple as the power lock not working properly in the hatch. Does the window open freely?

-Joe

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

Keep in mind that the tailgate for a 98 is completely different than the gate for a 96.

As for the 98, does the handle feel like it pops the latch, or does the handle act like it's not unlocking? Does the key work to unlock the lock? It could be as simple as the power lock not working properly in the hatch. Does the window open freely?

-Joe

good catch i dint read throughly enough or notice that he had a 98.

 

[Zero Signal]

I may be able to help you here, since I went through this about 6 months ago

First off, the lift gate on my '99 would not open, yet the window would. The lock for the window was fully functional which gave me every indication that the power lock was fine. Here's what I found during troubleshooting:

I lifted the rear glass and pryed back the plastic interior panel on the lift gate, being careful not to break the panel, and trying not to distort it too badly. Focus your attention on the area just below the window latch. Below it, inside the door frame, there are two threaded rods. One is about 4" in length and dangles from the lift gate door handle. The other is significantly longer and extends upward from the lift gate latching mechanism. The two are supposed to be connected via a little clip made of yellow plastic. Somehow, the plastic clip on mine had opened up and disconnected the handle from the latch. The door handle felt like it was locked (e.g. no tension when I tried to open it)... but it was actually just moving freely inside the door.

To fix it, I worked my hand and forearm in between the panel and the door (NOT comfortable at all) and used a pair of needle-nose pliers to grip the threaded rod for the latch. It is a pain in the ass, but take your time and make sure you have a good grip on the rod (AND MAKE SURE THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED ) Pull upwards on the latch rod with the pliers, and the lift gate should open.

With the lift gate open, you should be able to remove the interior panel completely. Remove the two screws that attach the interior handle, and the rest of the interior panel is held in with plastic and metal retaining clips. At this point, it's a piece o' cake.

Luckily, the plastic clip on mine had just popped loose. I simply inserted both threaded rods back into it, and snapped it back together.

The most difficult part is using the "needle-nose plier manual override" to open the lift gate in the first place

Hope this helps you out.

 

[surfnben]

yellow clip alternative

I just had to break into my daughter's 2001 sport to get the full hatch opening. I found what Zero signal found: The rod going from the handle to the center mechanism which opens the full tailgate had pulled out of the yellow clip. The yellow clip had torn apart. It is simply too weak to take the stress of all those latch rods when they freeze up from lack of lubrication. Probably a failsafe to keep the handle from breaking.

I couldn't find one around town, and I sure didn't know what to call the yellow clip thing to find one on the internet, and I sure didn't want to go to FORD just to buy a clip that would probably break again anyway. So, I replaced it with a piece of aluminum 1" x 1" x 1/8" "L-shape".

Here's my How To:

1.) Measure and mark about a 5/8" long section of aluminum "L-Shape" stock.

2.) Drill a (3/16"? whatever you think you need for a 6mm tap)hole in one side of the marked length piece of L shape, close to the other leg of the L, but leave enough room for a nut, and tap for the metric rod that used to go into the yellow clip. The factory rod on mine was a metric 6mm x 1 pitch.
2a) You could just drill a 1/4" hole here, and use the nut in step 8 only.

3.) Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the other side of the marked length of L shape. Countersink from the inside (90 degree side not 270 degree side)for a 1/4" x 3/4" Flat Head Machine Screw. This screw will go through the tailgate handle lever, where the old yellow clip inserted, and is held with a locknut on the other side of the handle lever.

4.) Hacksaw/Cut the 5/8" length from the piece of aluminum L stock. The piece will now be referred to as AP, the Aluminum Part.

5.) Insert the 1/4" x 3/4" Machine screw through the inside 1/4" countersunk hole of the AP.

6.)Thread the 6mm rod through the 6mm tapped hole from the outside of the AP until the 1/4" x 3/4" " machine screw in step 5 easily passes through the original hole in the factory handle lever (back of the handle); where the yellow clip once inserted.

7.) Put a 1/4" washer on the protruding 1/4" machine screw. Pass the 1/4" screw through the handle lever hole. Add another washer and secure with a locknut. Not too tight! Allow free movement of the AP.

8.) Screw down a 6mm x 1 nut to prevent rod from pulling through aluminum. I used lock tite to keep it there.

9.) Spray all levers and pivots with Spray Lithium grease. Otherwise, if the rods get too tight again from lack of lube, the handle may break instead of the clip!

 

[ThePhoenix]

this happend to me over the weekend. I felt some resistance then POP, no resistance at all

I also noticed my liftgate wasnt closed properly...so there was some stress on the rods.

I am going to open it up and see whats going on. Thanks

 

[surfnben]

It 's probably just a case of reassembling that clip thing, Chaz. If not, you can use my L channel method...I just re-read that article. I hope you can make sens of it without pictures, I knew I should have made some. Let me know if I can help.

 

[ThePhoenix]

I hoping that its just the cli[p thing, but your write up made a lot of sense and now I know there is a backup plan. Great writing. Thanks!
Chaz

 

[ThePhoenix]

and here it is two months later....and I have even jammed a xmas tree in and out thru the glass...but havent fixed t he darn lcok yet

I got the latch to open...but in the darkness, couldnt figure how to get the interior trim panel off. I can see that there is absolutly nothing attached to the handle itself. I will have to do it right this xmas vacation

 

[melanywilliams]

liftgate won't open 99 explorer

hi what i need to know is there a way to open the interior liftgate panel if the liftgate won't open please advise cannot change bulb.

 

[surfnben]

tailgate interior panel

As I remember, my son pulled that off for me. He just crawled in the back, got his fingers behind it, and start ripping...you kind of figure out the attachment points as you pull. Definitely remove the strap that is used to pull the gate down first. Once the panel is removed, you can reach in and pull on the lever that pops the gate open.

 

[ThePhoenix]

yeah but to fix the p art that pops off making the lift gate not open....is impossible

 

[gijoecam]

Not impossible... difficult? Sure... But not impossible. Once the trim panel is removed, it's not hard to figure out which linkage needs to be moved to get it to pop open. Usually one of the little plastic clips fails (easily replaced).

 

[okii]

rear lift gate won't open

Okay-

My '97 XLT rear lift gate and window will not open at all. I've read through the threads but don't seem to find how to remove the interior panel with being able to open the rear gate window first. One thread mentions two panel screws that are accessible only after the window is opened. Is that correct? If the screws are removed, is it just a matter of carefully prying the panel off? Thanks.

 

[ThePhoenix]

I got the gate open by moving the bar towards the middle.....you have to carefullly bend the interior panel inwards to get hand in there.

once I get it open however, I can see the whole assembly kind of...but cants see what is missing or find any pieces

 

[pacdave]

Yellow Plastic Piece

Has anyone found where to purchase that yellow plastic piece? I've searched the internet but have come up empty. I've got to take my Edge in for warranty work on Monday. I'll ask the parts department about it. I've "fixed" that blame part several times now... I guess its time to get the right piece!

 

[Bessie]

Keep in mind that the tailgate for a 98 is completely different than the gate for a 96.

As for the 98, does the handle feel like it pops the latch, or does the handle act like it's not unlocking? Does the key work to unlock the lock? It could be as simple as the power lock not working properly in the hatch. Does the window open freely?

-Joe

Joe - Thanks for your Post - saved me a lot of time.

 

[fredscott]

Found this old thread. Any updates to this? I am getting ready to dig into my 2000 explorer with this same problem.

 

[Mikebleakley15]

I just fixed this on my 2001 Ford Explorer sport. A week or so ago my rear lift gate stopped working so I crawled in the back and took off the rear trim panel...

Here are directions....



Once the trim panel is off you should see something that looks like this...


Pull top and bottom lift gate latch release rods in opposite directions and the door should open.

When I looked inside the door, the yellow clip connecting the "lift gate release handle actuating rod" (I think that's what they call it) to the door handle was undone. My door handle was actually broken so I went down to Auto Zone and for $20 I got a new handle which came with that stupid yellow clip.