Rear wheel bearings on 2003 Explorer - how much shop time for bearings only

[ROBinGa]

i have one side rear wheel bearing going bad. It sounds like I have a mud grip tire from a jacked up 4x4 when driving above 10 mph. I just ordered Timpkins bearings and plan to remove the knuckle on both sides to take to a shop to press out and press new bearings in for both knuckles then I will reinstall back on truck. I've called around and am getting quotes for 1 hour to do both. Is that reasonable to expect?

 

[Number Twelve]

I've called around and am getting quotes for 1 hour to do both. Is that reasonable to expect?

I would say, "Of course it's reasonable to estimate the minimum shop charge."
Except they will be lucky to do both of them in one hour.
Both of my rear bearings had to be put under tons of pressure, and then the drones went to lunch. The bearings popped loose after about 20 minutes. If you need 40 minutes of waiting time, it's hard to do 4 hydraulic press set-ups in 20 minutes.

 

[imp]

I would say, "Of course it's reasonable to estimate the minimum shop charge."
Except they will be lucky to do both of them in one hour.
Both of my rear bearings had to be put under tons of pressure, and then the drones went to lunch. The bearings popped loose after about 20 minutes. If you need 40 minutes of waiting time, it's hard to do 4 hydraulic press set-ups in 20 minutes.

@Number Twelve
I replaced both my rears about two years ago, the job took me the better part of the day. I work slow. OTOH, my labor comes real cheap! Noise first noticed on vacation, several thousand miles from home, it was not worsening quickly, drove it all the way back, by then thinking luck never lasts forever. Just HAD to see the bearing condition that would last so long, so tore it apart. Outer race, the galling did not extend all the way across the face....yet. imp

 

[lincolnshibuya]

i have one side rear wheel bearing going bad. It sounds like I have a mud grip tire from a jacked up 4x4 when driving above 10 mph. I just ordered Timpkins bearings and plan to remove the knuckle on both sides to take to a shop to press out and press new bearings in for both knuckles then I will reinstall back on truck. I've called around and am getting quotes for 1 hour to do both. Is that reasonable to expect?

Seems reasonable to do in 1hr. If the shop has been doing this they likely be done in half an hour for both. Depends on the shop and the condition of your bearings. Last time when I asked for quotes around they charge $60 for 1 side (regardless of how it will take them and hub or no hub) Some mentioned pep-boys charging really cheap (I don't have pep-boys in my area here)

 

[SyberTiger]

You really had ought to read, HERE, my saga getting the job done. The worst part of my experience had to do with finding someone competent enough to do the press out then press in job. I had found there's a boatload of mechanics who don't have a clue as to how to do the rear bearings on the 3rd gen Explorers although, initially, they'll tell you what great experts they are and it'll be a piece of cake...maybe for the few lucky ones. I don't know where you live in Georgia but I hope it's near the NAPA in Lithonia, GA.

 

[Number4]

ROBinGa, go see Mitch at the NAPA in Chamble (4789 Buford Hwy 30341.) He does them for all the Ford dealers in the area. You are talking labor, I'd presume $50 a side. It'll take him 15 mins a side.

What I'd recommend, is ask to get the knuckle back once he pops the old bearing out, then install new parking brake shoes. It's a lot easier when the hub is out.

He can tell you all that can go wrong letting your average shop do the work.

I don't believe the Lithonia NAPA has a machine shop, they may, but I'd bet they send the hub to Mitch anyway.

 

[SyberTiger]

ROBinGa, go see Mitch at the NAPA in Chamble (4789 Buford Hwy 30341.) He does them for all the Ford dealers in the area. You are talking labor, I'd presume $50 a side. It'll take him 15 mins a side.

What I'd recommend, is ask to get the knuckle back once he pops the old bearing out, then install new parking brake shoes. It's a lot easier when the hub is out.

He can tell you all that can go wrong letting your average shop do the work.

I don't believe the Lithonia NAPA has a machine shop, they may, but I'd bet they send the hub to Mitch anyway.

Hmm, they had a machine shop there 4 years ago when I did mine...My info is from actual experience to include pricing.

 

[Number4]

Hmm, they had a machine shop there 4 years ago when I did mine...My info is from actual experience to include pricing.

NAPA auto parts consolidated their machine shops about two years ago or so. Mitch actually came from the Kennesaw location and they moved him to the Chamblee location.

 

[SyberTiger]

NAPA auto parts consolidated their machine shops about two years ago or so. Mitch actually came from the Kennesaw location and they moved him to the Chamblee location.

I wonder if Mitch worked at Lithonia...the same sounds familiar...Is he a tall tidy engineer looking guy? Whoever the guy was, Mitch or someone else, he was great! Very knowledgeable and knew what the hell he was doing whereas every other shop I talked to was clueless...the most disappointing being the guy that has the weekend auto repair radio show in the Atlanta area.

 

[ROBinGa]

Thanks guys. I will contact Mitch and see what he says. That's probably 30 min drive from here. Thanks for the comments. The shop that I'm leaning towards right now told me they have done them and has admitted it's a very hard job that's why the full hour quote. I'm figuring that for getting them done and something I don't have ability to do the cost is a bargain.

 

[Number4]

Having someone that can't do them quick, may cost you more in the long run. They can damage the hub or the knuckle. And I'm sure they'll tell you too bad if they do. Everything in Atlanta is 30 mins, take them to Mitch.

 

[SyberTiger]

Having someone that can't do them quick, may cost you more in the long run. They can damage the hub or the knuckle. And I'm sure they'll tell you too bad if they do. Everything in Atlanta is 30 mins, take them to Mitch.

I agree with Number4....don't believe the non-sense that some of these shops are spewing. Read my saga I linked above. The NAPA machine shop was the only one that gave me confidence and they were the ones doing the work for the Ford dealer in Stone Mountain, GA.

 

[ROBinGa]

My last question I hope - in preparing for my take apart I need to get the impact socket for axle nut. I have a 30 mm and a 36mm. I have seen rear wheel bearing videos for our Explorers showing 32, 34, and 35 mm as the size. The write up on this forum says 1 3/8". Is there a standard size for the Ford part N808405S100A nut?

 

[imp]

My last question I hope - in preparing for my take apart I need to get the impact socket for axle nut. I have a 30 mm and a 36mm. I have seen rear wheel bearing videos for our Explorers showing 32, 34, and 35 mm as the size. The write up on this forum says 1 3/8". Is there a standard size for the Ford part N808405S100A nut?

@ROBinGa
If you have a measuring caliper, measure the nut across it's flats and take the number in inches, divide it by 0.03937, and you will have the nut size in mm. Round it up to the nearest whole number, buy the socket. I recall on the fronts, no inch-size was anywhere near close enough, in either 6 point or twelve. Rear, I dunno. imp

 

[SyberTiger]

My last question I hope - in preparing for my take apart I need to get the impact socket for axle nut. I have a 30 mm and a 36mm. I have seen rear wheel bearing videos for our Explorers showing 32, 34, and 35 mm as the size. The write up on this forum says 1 3/8". Is there a standard size for the Ford part N808405S100A nut?

My 2002 has 35mm nuts but as I recall you are correct that everyone seems to have a different size nut. I had previously purchase the Axle Lock Nut Socket Set from Harbor Freight when I first replaced my front hubs. They came in handy when I had to do the hubs on the girlfriend's Blazer then of course I had them available when I did the rear bearing job. As I recall a shallow socket will not work...you'll need a deep socket and the HF set obviously is a deep socket set.

 

[moorezr22]

Hi, Im new here (not to 3rd gen explorers) and I just wanted to comment about all of this bearing talk. I'm not sure why so many people find that these bearings are so bad to install. I have done a hand full of them and haven't had any issues. Worst case the guts fall out and the race is stuck in the hub. Some light heat the right press/adapters and no biggie. A typical shop with a press should manage these. You cant really install these wrong as there is a snap ring holding them in place. Biggest mistake/gripe I have is when co-workers don't torque the axle nut to spec. Also my experience with china bearings equals to a 20k service life. Buy a name brand bearing (TIMKEN) some patience and the right equipment and your bearings will be good to go. I have had bolt in hubs give me more trouble than the explorer bearings. You do not need to have magical powers to pull this off. I hope this persuades someone to give this a shot. The absolute worst case is the race is stuck or the hub gets damaged. In this event take back your $100 bearing and buy a complete Moog knuckle for $300. After all its just money and the experience of taking this job head on will make you a better mechanic/DIYER.

 

[moorezr22]

Hi, Im new here (not to 3rd gen explorers) and I just wanted to comment about all of this bearing talk. I'm not sure why so many people find that these bearings are so bad to install. I have done a hand full of them and haven't had any issues. Worst case the guts fall out and the race is stuck in the hub. Some light heat the right press/adapters and no biggie. A typical shop with a press should manage these. You cant really install these wrong as there is a snap ring holding them in place. Biggest mistake/gripe I have is when co-workers don't torque the axle nut to spec. Also my experience with china bearings equals to a 20k service life. Buy a name brand bearing (TIMKEN) some patience and the right equipment and your bearings will be good to go. I have had bolt in hubs give me more trouble than the explorer bearings. You do not need to have magical powers to pull this off. I hope this persuades someone to give this a shot. The absolute worst case is the race is stuck or the hub gets damaged. In this event take back your $100 bearing and buy a complete Moog knuckle for $300. After all its just money and the experience of taking this job head on will make you a better mechanic/DIYER.

 

[Hugh Janus]

Wow, all I can say is "try it". The Gen 3 rear bearing is a known problem. Watch a shop do one once and you'll likely understand. Yes, once in a while you get an easy one , (if the bearing isn't too bad), but often the bearing is in really bad shape and replacing it is a major fight. There isn't room between the hub and knuckle to get a bearing splitter in there to support the knuckle - hence a 50 ton press will simply tear the the end of the knuckle off.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

Hi, Im new here (not to 3rd gen explorers) and I just wanted to comment about all of this bearing talk. I'm not sure why so many people find that these bearings are so bad to install. I have done a hand full of them and haven't had any issues. Worst case the guts fall out and the race is stuck in the hub. Some light heat the right press/adapters and no biggie. A typical shop with a press should manage these. You cant really install these wrong as there is a snap ring holding them in place. Biggest mistake/gripe I have is when co-workers don't torque the axle nut to spec. Also my experience with china bearings equals to a 20k service life. Buy a name brand bearing (TIMKEN) some patience and the right equipment and your bearings will be good to go. I have had bolt in hubs give me more trouble than the explorer bearings. You do not need to have magical powers to pull this off. I hope this persuades someone to give this a shot. The absolute worst case is the race is stuck or the hub gets damaged. In this event take back your $100 bearing and buy a complete Moog knuckle for $300. After all its just money and the experience of taking this job head on will make you a better mechanic/DIYER.

Agree on this, once you smack the guts out by pounding it hard with a 5lb sledgehammer you are left with the outer race. From here you have several options, use an exact fit press adapter to push the outer race out, grind/cut a portion of the race (so that it will crack) or heat it. In my case I spent more time in removing the circlip, tie rods and the re-assembling the parking brake (no proper tool to replace the spring, it keeps on flying off)

you need a lot of tools though (press adapters) to properly do the job, so sometimes it's not worth pursuing doing this yourself.

 

[Hugh Janus]

Agree on this, once you smack the guts out by pounding it hard with a 5lb sledgehammer you are left with the outer race. From here you have several options, use an exact fit press adapter to push the outer race out, grind/cut a portion of the race (so that it will crack) or heat it. In my case I spent more time in removing the circlip, tie rods and the re-assembling the parking brake (no proper tool to replace the spring, it keeps on flying off)

you need a lot of tools though (press adapters) to properly do the job, so sometimes it's not worth pursuing doing this yourself.

Driving the hub out is what destroys the knuckle. If you get an easy one then it comes out, if not then out comes the torch. Other vehicles are much, much easier.