removing front drive shaft

[hotrod31]

I was thinking about removing the front driveshaft because of the binding that occures when turning sharp, I don't really need the awd in summer plus I thought it give better fuel economy. my truck is a 5.0 awd limited and I don't want to create more concerns by removing the shaft. thanks

 

[Vargas]

Without the front driveshaft, the vehicle can still move with the transmission in PARK.

 

[Joe Dirt]

^ What Vargas said ^

Don't do it...

 

[Electrohacker]

if you are binding while steering your fluid coupler could be dieing

 

[ericautopart]

If it is the Front DS I'm having a special on them right now..send me a PM if you are in need..

 

[Vargas]

It's not problem with the front driveshaft if binding only occurs at extreme steering angles.

 

[KRWebster]

Tend to agree with Vargas on that last point. Do you have a LS rear end? I had a similar issue as the one you are describing and for the life of me I thought it was binding up in the front diff. Fluid level was fine but replaced anyway....nothing. Then I read several posts about it actually being at the other end of the drivetrain. Replaced rear diff lube with Royal Purple (had LS additive) and added 4 oz. of the Ford additive. Cleared up the problem instantly. Others have not been so lucky or it took a while for it to work.

 

[ericautopart]

Tend to agree with Vargas on that last point. Do you have a LS rear end? I had a similar issue as the one you are describing and for the life of me I thought it was binding up in the front diff. Fluid level was fine but replaced anyway....nothing. Then I read several posts about it actually being at the other end of the drivetrain. Replaced rear diff lube with Royal Purple (had LS additive) and added 4 oz. of the Ford additive. Cleared up the problem instantly. Others have not been so lucky or it took a while for it to work.

I've never heard of that before..usually people just complain of chattering. If that is the case you can also soak the clutches in gear oil as well..

 

[hotrod31]

thanks for the replies! now that you mentioned the rear diff it could be the rear trac lock, but it feels like you in 4x4 when you take corners. Why wouldn't the park pawl engage if I removed the front drive shaft? the park pawl is in the transmission not the transfer case. I don't think the drive shaft is binding but that the front wheels are engaged in awd. what do you think?

 

[nelsona19]

listen to them, the parking pawl only holds the input shaft of the transfer case which is connected to the planetary carrier of a planetary gear set, ther rear output is hooked to the ring gear and so is the outer case of the viscous clutch, and the front output is hooked to the sun gear which is hooked to the inner case of the viscous clutch, so if you take out the front drive shaft, the viscous clutch will let the gear set move and your vehicle move when in park.

 

[explorerguy89]

yes do not remove very dangerous and will only cause more damage when your truck rolls into something

 

[KRWebster]

...but it feels like you in 4x4 when you take corners.

Yep. That is exactly how I would describe what I was experiencing and what had me chasing ghosts from the transfer case forward. You can validate if you have a limited slip rear axle by checking the code on the tag on the driver's door. If you have a LS rear axle I would change the fluid with a synth 75W140 and add the XL-3 friction modifier additive from the ford dealer. How many miles on the truck and when was the last time you changed the oil?

 

[hotrod31]

Ok I understand, so I will temporarily remove the front shaft to see if the problem is gone, I will also change the rear diff oil and add friction modifier also. but buy temporarily removing the front i'm not gona damage anything?
the truck has 223000 kilometers on it so it wouldn't hurt to change the diff oils. I've already changed the transfer case oil. thanks for all input guys!

 

[KRWebster]

Check out this link. It's the "sticky" on AWD Front Driveshaft removal. Good points around running with frt drive shaft removed aside from just the roll in park issue.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215726

 

[Joe Dirt]

Have you tried putting jackstands under 4 corners and having someone run the truck in drive while you lay underneath to localize the noise? Usually it's the viscous coupling and the sound clicks/pops from the transfer case. Same usual "feels like it's in 4wd when turning" sensation too because the coupler can't slip.

 

[Vargas]

I'd think the only problem noises you'd get up on 4 jack stands would be half shaft joints. With all four wheels off the ground the differentials and VC have no work to do.

 

[Joe Dirt]

If you have the brakes applied, you can hear a bad VC- at least on my buddy's Ex, it was a junk VC and it was wholly evident. But you have the brakes about 65% applied. Once you let go and let the wheels spin at idle, the noise will disappear.

 

[hotrod31]

I've got no noise, just a binding feeling.

 

[my pos mounty]

Ok I understand, so I will temporarily remove the front shaft to see if the problem is gone, I will also change the rear diff oil and add friction modifier also. but buy temporarily removing the front i'm not gona damage anything?
the truck has 223000 kilometers on it so it wouldn't hurt to change the diff oils. I've already changed the transfer case oil. thanks for all input guys!

Remove your front driveshaft. I believe that your viscous coupling is gone and no damage will occur to your truck. You can not kill what is already dead.

This would explain the "binding" that you feel when cornering tight and slow. The viscous coupling is not slipping as much as it is supposed to, resulting in the binding/wheel hop.

When you leave your truck, set your (working) e-brake so that IF your VC allows a little slip, it won't roll down the hill. My truck has not moved an inch since I removed my front driveshaft last December and I have NO e-brake at all. Yes, my VC is really gone and seized, but I know why/how it happened.

Changing your rear diff fluid, while it is a good idea as far as regular maintenance is concerned, will not have any effect on this problem. That issue is very different than what you say you are experiencing. If you had what would be best described as a "chatter" when accelerating from a stop, while turning even slightly, and that "chatter" becomes more prominent as the rear heats up, then that would point to the rear diff fluid in the LSD diff. (assuming you even have an LSD)

 

[Electrohacker]

if you are binding while steering your fluid coupler could be dieing

called it