Replacing Jackshaft & Left cam cassette tensioners...and more?

[2000StreetRod]

Timing needs correction

I strongly suggest that you retime the camshafts. 10-15 degrees is excessive. Remember the camshaft rotates half as fast as the crankshaft. 10-15 degrees of camshaft is equivalent to 20-30 degrees of crankshaft. You have to find a way to keep the traction side of the timing chain taught when you torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts. The spring tension from the stock hydraulic tensioner is not adequate to keep the chain taught. That's why the timing kit includes a calibrated tensioner tool to temporarily replace the hydraulic tensioner.

I plan to remove the tensioner and install a bolt with a very short length of hose thru the opening, then install a washer and nut on the inside. The hose will keep the bolt threads from damaging the tensioner opening threads. Then I'll turn the head of the bolt so the shaft end presses against the slack side of the guide assembly until the chain is taught. Keeping the crankshaft from rotating will keep the jackshaft from rotating. I'll use sections cut from small plastic pill bottles tightened under two of the camshaft bearing caps to keep each camshaft from rotating. The jackshaft sprocket being kept from rotating by the crankshaft will prevent the camshaft sprocket from rotating as long as the timing chain is taught.

I suggest that you time the right camshaft first and then the left camshaft. The Ford timing procedure using the special timing tool kit is posted on my thread: SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing

Take your time and be as accurate as possible.

I wouldn't spend any money on lash adjusters until I got the timing correct and listened to the engine run after. You should be able to tell which one is noisy. If only one is noisy, why buy an entire set? If the noise is still present and seems to be coming from a lash adjuster then I'd try an engine flush. If that doesn't fix it then I'd consider cleaning or replacing it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Did you retime?

Did you decide to retime the camshafts?

 

[skloczko]

Hi again! Been a while since I've checked back; busy life right now. Retiming the cam shaft has definitely been the plan. However; it just couldnt be that simple....

I can't get the camshaft sprocket bolt off for the life of me...I can get a 3/8 socket on there and use an offset ratchet with perfect grip on the bolt head.

I had a 2 foot extension on the ratchet and gave up after i was moving the whole truck....to no avail. I've been soaking it in PB Blast every day, and trying every now and then...to no avail.

What gives???

Im getting the tax return in the mail soon. Going to pull the engine, buy a new (new to me) one, check out the tensioners before I install it; fix up the old one out of the truck and sell it I guess...

Anyone have any other tips to getting that sprocket bolt off without pulling the engine....I mean, I have more than enough leverage on it now. I could easily be putting 150 ft/lbs on that bad boy and not getting anything....
(passenger side)

 

[2000StreetRod]

Loosens clockwise

The passenger (right) side camshaft sprocket retaining bolt loosens in the clockwise direction (opposite of normal). There's even a small arrow on the head showing the direction it tightens (counter-clockwise).

 

[skloczko]

HAHA...........................

Fail....


Ouch.


Now that b**h is torqued on there pretty good now though I guess.


You're not pullin my chain are you?

 

[2000StreetRod]

No joke

No, I wouldn't joke about something like this. You're lucky it didn't break. Did it yield? The specified torque is 62 ft-lbs. If you torqued it to 150 ft-lbs then you have over stressed the bolt. I suggest that purchase another one. There are numerous bolt letter notices in the service manual:
"CAUTION: THE RIGHT HAND CAMSHAFT SPROCKET BOLT IS A LEFT-HAND THREADED BOLT."

 

[skloczko]

Hello again. Well, i did find that warning in the Haynes manual section I was referencing - but on top of the next page as the beginning to a new paragraph. Ugh.

Ive decided to go the motor swap route now that I have the money. I started working on this again and have discovered that there isnt just a single noise, but 3 noises that appear at different rpms up to about 2800-3000 rpms. After all of this Im not sure what to make of it so I'm caving in and just swapping the engines.

I'll get in there and check the timing components on the new motor before I install.

Thanks again

 

[2000StreetRod]

back to work

I'm glad that you're back to work on getting your Explorer functional. Are you going to use a Mustang engine or another Explorer engine?

 

[skloczko]

Going to go for a 98 Explorer motor, I'm guessing if I went for a mustang motor there would be more involved than just swapping engines?

 

[skloczko]

I know ive seen it on this forum somewhere before, but I cant find it again. What are the direct swap options for a 1998 4.0 SOHC 4x4 VIN E? Will a 2001 fit in without trouble?

Thanks again

 

[2000StreetRod]

return fuel system

I believe your 1998 has the fuel return system with the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail. The 1999s and later have the returnless fuel system with the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel tank and a fuel pressure damper on the fuel rail.

The 4WD SOHC V6 has the balance shaft while the 2WD SOHC V6 does not.

Your 1998 probably has the variable intake system that was deleted on the 1999 and later engines.

 

[ford slave]

well,replacement engine out of x and on engine stand will be oppening the front and valve covers tomorrow.see what i find!

 

[skloczko]

Hi Again! I am just about completed with the engine swap - a 1997 SOHC V6 with about 110k miles.
I was just finishing connecting the front accessories, when I realized the wiring harness that is supposed to connect to the alternator is non existent.... Everything has been exactly the same thus far so I am baffled.
Where the wire comes out of on my old engine (split off another harness), there is nothing on the new one.

Should I be looking somewhere else for this harness? Or am I going to have to do some rewiring?....

thanks again!

 

[skloczko]

On my old moter, the harness for the alternator split off of this....but its not here on this motor

 

[skloczko]

Ok, I found the harness. The place I got the motor from cut this off, it was wired a little differently than my 98 I guess... So, do I have to take the entire harness cluster off this motor and switch in the one from my 98? Or could I rewire the harness and run it myself to where it needs to go. If I could do this I would prefer it, since the other option requires undoing a lot of connectors in tough to get at places. I just dont know where to run these wires since the Haynes manual leaves out the alternator in the back wiring diagrams...

 

[skloczko]

Ok I actually found a thread where you helped someone with almost the exact same problem. I guess the only question now is, can I use the harness on the 97 motor or are things different to the point I need to use the 98 harness anyways?

thanks!

 

[2000StreetRod]

VIS on both?

If you have the variable intake system on both the 98 and the 97 then I believe the engine wiring harnesses are identical. The integrated MAF/IAT did not come out until later. I'm glad to see that you're close to be done.

 

[skloczko]

Hi Dale

I ended up taking the time to just swap out the wiring harness from the 98 motor and using that. At least so I could be sure that all the wiring is going to match up correctly. I managed to "finish" yesterday...that is, got everything connected, fluids re-filled and was able to attempt starting.

Engine cranks good - won't start. Didnt get a chance to check spark or fuel delivery since it was dark at 4:30 - but I'll start trouble shooting on Saturday.

 

[2000StreetRod]

CKP sensor

Make sure the crankshaft position sensor and the coil pack power connectors are hooked up. They are sometimes overlooked.

Is the CEL illuminated? If so, do you have a diagnostic trouble code reader? You possibly have a bad wiring connection somewhere. Sometimes a DTC will point you to the bad connection (TPS, MAF, IAT, etc.) Good luck with the troubleshooting.

 

[skloczko]

Hi again; So I'm fairly certain that I've identified the problem to be with fuel delivery. Engine cranks good, and I'm getting a strong spark, but theres no gas (sprayed a little starting fluid in the intake and it kicked over for a second).

Everything I tested seems to point to a bad fuel pump....but how could that be possible given I drove the truck before I did the engine swap?

The fuel pump fuse is good. I tested the relay and it checks out. There is power getting to the harness inside the frame rail that connects to the pump. The haynes manual says to check ground/continuity at the harness too but it gets a little fuzzy on how to do that (there is continuity between pins in the harness and it seemed like I got continuity from the pins to a ground point on the frame...)

Anything else that could be suspect, or anything else to try before having to replace the fuel pump?

Will I be able to check a code if the CEL is lit given that the engine hasnt run since I put it in? - I can give it a try.