Replacing Serpentine Belt: Very Difficult? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replacing Serpentine Belt: Very Difficult?

aldive said:
Sure the tensioner can be turned without a "cheater pipe', its just a lot easier to do it that way.

The gentleman asked how he could get more leverage and a :"cheater pipe" is a simple way to do that.
Agreed Al
Makes all alot easier, I always use a cheater bar, pic is of my serp change awhile back.
 

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aldive said:
I use the Goodyear Gatorback belt and have never had any problems.

It is a good belt at a good price @ Autozone which is why I bought it and would recommend it, however the gentle, high pitch whistle that numerous folks have reported can be mistaken for an IAC problem. It's unclear what triggers the noise (it probably has to do with the offset belt cogs and the harmonics of the idler, ps, water pump, alt, etc pulleys which will have play that varies from truck to truck), but in any case this is a heads-up to minimize any head-scratching. Great belt, got 5 years out of my last GoodYear.
 






Ditto. My gatorback also made a whistle initially. I was convinced it was my K&N filter I installed at the same time. It eventually went away.

I suspect it's the siping they put on the inside of their belts. The fact that the spacing isn't staggered can certainly cause it. (That's the same reason the tread blocks on your tires vary in size around the circumference of the tire)
 






marragtop said:
It's also easier (but not mandatory) if you have a 2nd person. One holds the tensioner, the other threads the belt. Make sure your car has the belt routing diagram on it before you remove the old one. If you don't have a diagram, draw yourself a picture.




Hehe make sure you have someone you trust, or you hold the tensioner :p

Its really not hard to do yourself, get the belt around properly and just leave it off one pully for the time being, then release the tensioner and slip the belt over the last pully (i left it off the AC compressor pulley), easy as pie.

Good luck :D
 






Anyone got any pictures of the belt tensioner hole? I'm just replacing the alt, I could just take the belt off the alt and tensioner right? So I don't have to re-do everything else?
 






I've always found the easiest pulley to do last is the water pump... It's smooth with no shoulders or ribs, and it's easy to slip the belp up an on it with one hand while you release the tension with the other hand.

Odds are it's going to fall off one or more of the pulleys while you're replacing the alternator anyways. Just plan on it.

A tip on that note: Crack the battery cable loose before removing the alternator mounting bolts. Also, be sure and remove the positive connection from teh battery.
-Joe
 












Anyone got any pictures of the belt tensioner hole? I'm just replacing the alt, I could just take the belt off the alt and tensioner right? So I don't have to re-do everything else?

Here is the belt tensioner off of my '99 SOHC.
 

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It hard to get in there?
 






I was taking a quick look at it, I think the fan and there's this black tube (not the air tube) is in the way.. any tips?
 






I was taking a quick look at it, I think the fan and there's this black tube (not the air tube) is in the way.. any tips?

I just changed my belt, I used my long ratchet/breaker bar, and went in from the passenger side, where the air box is. I had plenty of room with my mac intake, but I'm not sure how much room you will have with the stock air box. I'm pretty sure it's a 5/8 socket, use the shortest one you have, there isn't much room in there.
 






I'm probably going to remove the air tube completely, but wtf is this black pipe/tube?..
 












I think this hose is going to give me problems...
(Not my engine, but someday.. I hope mine will be this clean.... I bet this thing is brand new from the stealership..)
 






Did this hose give any of you guys problems? What about the fan and shroud?
 






That's the upper radiator hose, it won't get in your way. I didn't have to take anything off when I changed my belt. You want to put your wrench down into the engine bay where the MAF meets the intake tube, then work it sideways and put it on the tensioner and pull up to loosen it. A 3/8" breaker bar is the perfect length to do it.
 






Another quick question.. (of course..) I've read on the forums to turn it counter-clockwise.. my sticker says turn clockwise?.. So uh... yeah.. which way? =\
 






When you put the breaker bar (or serpentine belt tool, or ratchet with a pipe... whatever works) one way will loosen it, one way will make it tighter. You've only got two choices, and the correct one will make itself self-evident in very short-order.

In my case (98 SOHC) CCW loosens it.
 






Why would it need to be tightened? I thought the tensioner for our applications was self adjusting?
 



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