rjcooperss396 V6 to V8 Swap | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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rjcooperss396 V6 to V8 Swap

I was going to install the trans today and started with instlling the flexplate and filling the converter up with ATF. However, while doing the remote oil filter kit arrived. So I held off installing the trans so I could check and make sure there was going to be enough room for the adapter plate. Unfortunately there isn't enough room to install the lines with the adapter plate on the engine. So I pulled the flexplate back off and pulled the engine again.

It's sad to be back on the stand.

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I've decided what I'm going to try is to notch the frame to and move the steering box away from the engine some. Here's what I did so far.

The bracket in the old position.

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The hole in the frame.

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The piece I removed.

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I'll reinforce the inside of the frame before I weld the bracket back in and I think with a couple 90 degree fittings that I'll have enough room to clear it.
 



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I think I have the steering box bracket where it's going to clear now. However, I'm not going to use the block adapter that came in the kit I ordered. The one in the kit comes straight out and Summit carries a low profile one that exits at 90 degrees. It's also only 1 3/8 tall and I have 2 inches of clearance now at the closest area. As you can see in the before and after pictures I moved the bracket about an inch inside the frame. I still need to weld the bottom though.

Before:

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After:

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are you using the oil filter relocation adapter.? My v6-v8 swap in my sport was easy. But i got lucky with 97 v6 and swapped a 97 v8 in it.
 






I'm not using the one that came on the V8 because I have a solid front axle and I mounted my steering box inside the frame. It cleared the V6 OHV fine but didn't clear the oil filter on the V8. The relocation kit I bought was this one from Summit.

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But this is the block adapter that I'm going to use instead.

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sweet, how much did you get it for?? and where. I'm going to be getting ready to run a SAS.. and finding all the parts I'll need.
 






I bought the kit from Summit Racing and I think it was around $60.
 






sweet.. thats not bad at all.. thanks a ton.
- Tyler
 


















I finished welding up the underside. I hate welding upside down! I also took a look at the gas tanks because mine doesn't have the pressure sensor on it and Eric's is rusted to **** and I was going to just cut the mount for the sensor out and weld it to mine. However, while I was cleaning them out I discovered that his tank has a built in sump to help keep the fuel at the fuel pump. Mine doesn't have this but instead uses a plastic sump that is part of the fuel pump. I don't want to use mine with the V8 pump because it could starve the engine of fuel on the steep angles I put this truck in. So I've decided that I'm just going to buy another tank that has the sensor.

Here's pictures of the completed steering box. Part of the reason the welds look like **** is because I added plate between the frame and the mount to fill a gap near the front. The two beads v together and make it look terrible. I should have cleaned it up but I realy don't care what it looks like on the bottom.

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Worked on it again today. I was able to drop the engine in and bolted up the trans. Moving the steering box mount inside the frame and using the low profile adapter worked perfect! There is now plenty of room.

Pictures from today.

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Looks good.... you have way more everything (time, patience, $$$, know how, etc) than I do.

Nothing but RESPECT to those who take on a project of this magnitude!!

Thanks but like most of us I don't have much money to invest into it. Luckily I have good friends who can get me good deals. I only have about $700 into the rebuild so far. That includes everything that I've done to the engine.

As for time, this is going much faster than my SAS. I took me a full year to do that one.
 






No pictures today because I didn't have much time to work on it. I did manage to bolt the torque converter tot the flexplate, connect all the harnesses for the trans, install the shift linkage, install the starter and fix some corroded wiring. I also found that's it's so much easier to install the starter without all the IFS crap in the way.
 






Got more done today. I finished installing the injectors, upper intake, egr and sensors, and the TB. I also installed the drivers side accessories so I could see how much room I was going to have for the power steering lines and mock up lines to be made. I will only have to have a high pressure line made because I was able to cut and bend the low pressure line. Tomorrow I'll go to The Hose Man and have the line made.

Getting closer.

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Here's the mocked up high pressure line. It's the one with the hose clamps on it.

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The green arrows point to the low pressure hose and hard line and the yellow arrow points to the high side line that I bent to crap fitting it where I wanted.

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Its coming right along. I'm in the process as well with doing a swap. I'm putting a 5.0 in my 96 explorer and taking the 4.0 that was in that and putting into the 97 mountaineer that I got the 5.0 from.

I'm currently at the point where I have both engine on the ground and attempting to swap the wiring harnesses.
 






I dropped the power steering hose off at The Hose Man to have it made. I should have it next week. I got some more done today as well. The only things I have left to do is install the MAF, radiator overflow, trans cooler, transfer case, rear driveshaft, exhaust, fuel pump, fuel tank, power steering hose when I have it and then fill it up with oil and water. I'm hoping to have it done in a few days. Then I'll break the engine in and then take it to be BAR certified. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.
 






i think your CR is 8.4 with the .030 piston down they make diff pistons so it will be close to 0 deck JMO
 



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i think your CR is 8.4 with the .030 piston down they make diff pistons so it will be close to 0 deck JMO

Mine actually came out at 9.072:1. Here's the calculator I used. http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp

With a 0 deck my compression ratio would be 9.781:1 which is too high to run 87 octane.

The only things I have left to do is install the power steering hose when it's done and install the fuel tank and pump. I went to install the rusty tank from the '97 today but the filler connection broke off it. It's just too rusted to use so I ordered a new one tonight. I should have it in a few days.

I again didn't take any pictures but I'll try to tomorrow.
 






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