RU planning to put a 302 in your X? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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RU planning to put a 302 in your X?

So you think you want to put a 302 in your 91 to 94 Four Wheel Drive Explorer? My advice is plan, then plan some more. Ask questions, then plan, and finally ask more questions then plan. You get the point. There are several sources for doing this swap with Rangers. Most of this info is usable on the Explorers. However, some options do change the way things fit. My ABS motor on the 94 XLT is making it tough to mount a radiator. Also, Size does matter! 302’s are the easiest fit. There is not much room in the older Explorers, so anything bigger than the 302 ( Size wise, not Cubic inch wise ) is hard to squeeze in there. Yes 427’s can be made to work, but why spend all the extra money redesigning the frame? Doing this conversion takes Time and Money, Be patent and you’ll enjoy the outcome. Try to rush it and things can go south real quick.

I started my project 9/27/00. Yep, over a year ago. Just proof that this is an addicting sport when you can sit for a year and still long for the offroad experience. Looking back, the biggest single improvement I could have made to this project would have been using a Donor vehicle. First choice would have been a 96 model 2WD V8 Explorer. Second choice would have been any 89 to 93 Mustang GT.

Donor vehicles can be picked up from Salvage or Insurance pools. Also, find a friend that can purchase from the Auto Auctions. High mileage Mustangs are going for $500 running ( who cares what the body looks like ) and the Explorers are going for around $3000. With the Donor vehicle you get all the brackets and wiring. Very important. Using the Explorer, you get the all-important clearance for your radiator.

Even with the Donor vehicle it is a great idea to have the motor rebuilt. It is out of the vehicle, do it now. Should cost around $1500 depending on how crazy you get. Cheap insurance. I don’t want to ever pull my motor out of my Explorer again. So rebuild it now. If you’re using an automatic, you’ll need to get Advance Adapters kit. It’s about $900 bucks and includes the output shaft. Have a good tranny shop rebuild your tranny using the new output shaft that fits your Transfer case. If you’re using a manual tranny, I don’t know what to tell you. Refer back to paragraph one.

Other thoughts…..

Make sure you line the motor up correctly. If the motor mounts are not lined up right then you will have the back of the transfercase to far left or right, and it’s time to start over. Pull the motor and reweld mounts.

Fuel Rails….This stuff is expensive. You can hook up the fuel lines on a 94 XLT using 96V8 Explorer parts. It's 4 separate parts and cost about $180.00 ( Go to a salvage ) The fuel rails connect at the back of the intake into extension lines that hook directly to the hardlines coming from the gas tank. Custom fuel line is expensive too, so refer to paragraph 1 and decide which route you want to go.

Exhaust…This is a mess on my truck. I went the shortcut route and tried to use Mustang Shorty headers. They did not work on my truck. Purchase the custom headers from Kaufman or one of the other vendors. Once past the manifolds I have a nice 2 ½” true dual set-up with Cat Convs. & 02’s. I will pass emissions.

Wiring….. This was another tough area. The explorer uses a fuse relay panel and the mustangs don’t. So I had to somehow merge the mustang and Explorer Harness. A good friend on this board did this for me. Fox wiring charges $600 for a new harness, but it bypasses the Fuse relays. I wanted it to be factory looking under the hood so I paid a friend to do this wiring for me.

Cost…..Well that’s hard to nail down. There are bargains everywhere if you do your homework. My estimated cost is between 5 & 7K right now. Can’t get an exact cost due to several issues that occurred during this project. It is not a cheap conversion. It does make swapping to a solid axle front seem less painful to the wallet though.

At this time my project is still in progress. I ran out of time, so I’m using money to finish the project. I have another friend finishing the truck. He is being paid well for what is left. I saw first hand the LT1 vette motor he put in another friend’s jeep. It looked factory, so I asked if he could finish mine. It was hard to find a shop to do this project because of all the potential for custom or fabricating work to make this combo work. I am glad I stumble across him. I’m hoping to have this finished this year or maybe in January. Plan on seeing everyone in Phoenix!


Good Luck and enjoy.
 



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hey ASP lets see some pictures.

Brett spent 30 hours researching the wiring needed to be done for the 4.0L to 5.0L conversion.

It is not simple, and it is not that same for every 5.0L harness. They change throughout the years.
You can post a guide and it will be helpful, but there is only 1 way to do it right.

I know I watched Brett build it. Fairly simple end product, long road to get there....

So it's your choice, tackle it yourself (isnt that hard like you said, just time consuming, and you need to have all the necessary information, and know how) or pay $800+ to Windsor Fox, $800 + to Painless, or pay $400+ to Brett and I to do it for you.

I want to see some pictures of your 5.0L in the truck, I may know somebody who wants to buy it but we need pictures of the swap progress (wires hooked up, engine in truck, interior in truck, etc...)

Thanks man! post them here or email them to Brett or I. Like I said my buddy is looking to do a 5.0L in an Explorer, you may just save him some time and $$$ if the pictures tell the tale....
 



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Anyone got any pictures yet? I am intrested in doing this same thing.

Eric
 






I should have some good pictures of my swap soon, I just need to finish the roll and get them developed.

Here is a taste thought Dead Link Removed
 






Thanks for replying. I am looking forward to see some pictures of the final product.


Eric
 






Thank you!! I'm glad that someone out there has said that this conversion is not some great task,or that it cost 10,000 dollars.

i agree that conversion can be as simple or as complex as you want. im sure youve seen Dead Link Removed. i think a lot of it has to do with what you know... how much your willing to study.... how much time you will spend on it... what are your resources. i think ryans project is good example of having a plan, having the knowhow, having the willpower to bring it to life. (hes doing a kick ass job in my opinion)

ive been researching it myself. i plan $1200 for total motor. $400 junked 302 at local yard $600 for rebuild $200 for dress up parts. i have not decided on what to do for the tranny and tcase. i would definitely upgrade but cant decide on whether or not to go for a whole donor like a bronco or f-150. if i do that i think ican get a decent donor for 2k (early 80s) rebuild motor and hope the best for the tranny and tcase.

my point is i know how to work on carburated motors and feel very confident in how to get em going strong so that is why i would go that route. i also consider it fescible on my budget to this in the next year and a half.

though i would love ot buy the ford motor sports 350hp 302 from summit or wherever its just not realistic for me to spend a big pile at once.

i say plan plan plan and then kick it in the ass as hard as you can.

btw- this thread is good resource thanks!!! gofast and asp84 good work!
 






That was the point I was trying to make with my previous post. My conversion is near completion and I have yet to go over $2000.00(can) with it. The most expensive part so far was the AA piece at $950 with shipping,exchange, etc. I spent some time cleaning parts and worked a trade for my AODW tranny. I should end up with a very respectable and clean conversion when complete. I have done 99% of all of the work (tranny was built by a friend) and will finish the truck myself. I have got the conversion about 75% complete, with it possibly starting tomorrow night. This conversion is certainly made easier if you have done one or another type of conversion before. I used a friends 2wd Explorer as a ginnie pig for the conversion and then corrected mistakes done on that one in my own.
 






what tcase are you using? is that the adapter you taking about?
 






I am using my factory transfer case and the adapter allows me to use the 5.0L AODW with it and my factory driveshafts. It makes bolting up alot easier. A will post some pictures on my web site real soon.
 






Already planning

I am looking at buying an older model 91 X 4X4 4d 5spd with 148K and have already started looking into a 5.0 swap, when the 4.0 dies. What problems would I run into by keeping the stock manual tranny. Most swaps I have seen so far involve autos. Would there need to be any changes made from the tranny back... transfer, driveshafts....
Are there any king of adapters for a 5.0 to manual tranny.
So far the 5.0 91-92 T-bird sounds like the easiest path by asp84. Any other 5.0 choice suggestions.

I know some will say just buy one with a V8. 3 reasons.
Money
Don;t like newer X as much
No fun

Thanks.
 






Well my friend is just putting the finishing touches on his 93 X Mustang HO conversion. We actually fired it up for the first time last night!!!!! (open headers = loud)

There are a few things to look out for, 5.0l's with egr will work, but look to chopp out a bunch more from the heater box. Personally I would look touse a 5.0L with no air pump and no egr.

Also the duff radiator is a nice fit, made it possible to use a flex fan even withthe mustang serpentine setup.

Stay away from the Duff long headers, fit = too tight. especially when you dont use Duff engine mounts.

a body lift would help clear some of the stuff.

With A/C, AGR, a smog pump, ABS compressor,all under the hood and nop body lift it is a tight squeeze to say the least. The intake manifold is pointed towards the drivers side for a better fit, which caused some more problems with tranny filler tube, dipstick, valve covers, and throttle cable.

Look to spend a lot of time doing the work if you go this route. what you think will take 15 minutes will take you at least 2 hours. :)

If I had an Explorer I would go this route. :)
The AA adapter for the AOD to T case is a nice touch too.

I'll stick with a 4.0L for my little BII, a HO would be too much, maybe a SOHC eventually though....

Teh wiring is tricky, but we can help you there....:)
 






What did you guys use for a fule pump? I am sure the 5.0 needs more fuel than the 4.0. Did you change it?


Eric
 






Actually they are pretty much the same pump.

The "standard" Ford pump puts out 80 liters /hour if I remember right, same for 2.9L, 3.0L, 4.0L, and 5.0L.

So basically you always have a bunch of pressure in the fuel system from the pump to the rail, the pressure regulator is what controls teh actual pressure by releasing some back to the tank.
So the 4.0L and 5.0L probably use slightly different regulators, but the pumps pump the same pressure.

Now it's eaasy for you to drop in a aftermarket high pressure mustang pump, but unless you are building a high powered 5.0L the stock 4.0L pump will work fine....
 






I believe I've got a 110l stang pump... I wanted to make sure I had the fuel there when on odd angles, or what not when wheeling
Pete
 






Do the stock Explorer fuel lines hook directly up to the ones on the 5.0? Is the power of the 5.0 more noticable over the 4.0?


Eric
 






Fuel Lines.

The fuel lines only hook up with the factory lines if you have the fuel rails from a 96+ Explorer V8. The mustang fuelrails exit on the wrong side of the motor.

Not sure if T-bird models exit on the right or left.

I bought 96 v8 Explorer fuel Rails and the the fuel line extentions and they mounted directly to the factory fuel lines mounted on the frame going to the tank.

I'm also using the factory explorer pump for now.
 






For Joe's swap, we made our own fuel lines to connect the explorer factory lines to the mustang fuel rail.
 






Here is some information on the conversion that may help.

The fuel pump in an Explorer is 65lph while the Mustang uses 88lph and 110lph depending on the year. I personnally am using a 155lph aftermarket pump with my conversion.

I believe Motorsport hedders to be the best hedders for the conversion, I have them on my truck that I am just finishing up. I have seen other conversion hedders and the fit just isn't there.

The EGR clearance can be reduced by using the 91-93 T-bird/Cougar style of intake. The throttle body is turned 45 degrees towards the front. The fuel line ports are on the same side as the Mustang, so custom lines do have to be made.

I used homebuilt mounts for my truck and still have to drive the truck far enough to see if they work but so far the results are great. These mounts also mounted the engine lower and I don't feel that a body lift is needed on my truck to make any more clearance.

I have posted some more pictures, take a look and please comment. I will also be posting a parts list of the parts used once I am done.

I still need to add details to the pictures.

Dead Link Removed

Dead Link Removed
 






Hey those mounts look nice speedfreak. Let us know how they hold up... You could alway make some for me... :)
 






Speedfreak: That looks great sitting in the engine compartment. Thanks for the pics and the answers to my questions. I to and going to put a 5.0 in my Explorer. Just not sure when and how. The wofe thinks she needs a house and don't want to rent any more. Go figure! :D Anyway, do you have a body lift? I noticed you had alot of room behind the head. Are you going to put the heater box back in? I know if MI it gets really cold in the winter time.

Thanks again

Eric
 



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Thanks, I will be putting the heater box in because it can be quite cold here too. I am going to have the Y-pipe made first so that there is room to work, then reinstall it. I do not have a body lift at all, just a custom 5.5 inch suspension lift.
 






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