Stalling when in Gear along with Flickering Lights

[07EddyB]

Yes I noticed. And it takes a lot of misfires to log a code. I know that conventional wisdom says that a coil either works or it doesn't and they don't get weak. I also know that trusting conventional wisdom during diagnosis has screwed me over more than a few times. It might be worth your time to pull the coils and inspect the boots also for tears or cracks.

 

[Thafisher]

Yes I noticed. And it takes a lot of misfires to log a code. I know that conventional wisdom says that a coil either works or it doesn't and they don't get weak. I also know that trusting conventional wisdom during diagnosis has screwed me over more than a few times. It might be worth your time to pull the coils and inspect the boots also for tears or cracks.

The coils are about a year old so I would imagine they should be good. But maybe not. I pulled them all off a few weeks ago and some were oily and covered in residue. I cleaned them and put them back.
I'm going to check them and make sure all the connections are tight and give it another go.

 

[Explorer_PL]

What brand of coils ?

 

[Thafisher]

What brand of coils ?

I'm not exactly sure but there was like 3 of them that were actually loose.
It helped a ton tightening them up with some zip ties for the time being. The threads are somewhat stripped.
But it stayed running this time.
Until after about 10 minutes of driving around the neighborhood. Then it started to stall out on me right after taking a turn.
It stalled and I tried to start it back up but it stalled out again. Unless I pressed on the gas pedal.
I pushed it a little bit towards the house and after a few minutes tried to start it again. It started up so I quickly put it in drive and pressed on the pedal and it sluggishly started to take off. So I didn't let off the pedal until I got it home. (It was a straight shot)
Then when I was taking a left into my driveway it stalled out again and is now stuck halfway out my driveway.
Is this pointing towards a new power steering pump/pulley?

 

[Explorer_PL]

I do not believe so. When my friend's 03 Explorer with 4.6 had a siezed idler pulley, the car never stalled, the v8 has enough power to move the belt around until it shredded so if the pump is giving some resistance, it should not be enough to stall that motor.

Can you take the belt off and drive the car all the way into your driveway ?
Did you hear any noises like clattering of chains before ? For timing to jump, there would have to be lots of slack.
A good shop can check the timing with a diagnostic tool where the signals from crank sensor aligns with the signals from the camshaft every 2 revolutions.
or
You can see one phaser through the oil fill hole in the valve cover, the other you can't. You'd have to take both covers off and the front cover. Then keep rotating the crankshaft up to something like 84 revolutions or a multiplier of count of teeth on cranks sprocket and phasers and see if they align on marks.
But that's a little bit of effort. At that point you could replace the guides and tensioners.

 

[Rcflyer330]

I would say you are looking at an ignition system problem if what you did made the problem better even if it didnt stay for long.
When you are diagnosing stuff and you make a change and it helps thats where you need to keep looking. So the power steering is not the root cause of the stalling problem.

 

[Thafisher]

I do not believe so. When my friend's 03 Explorer with 4.6 had a siezed idler pulley, the car never stalled, the v8 has enough power to move the belt around until it shredded so if the pump is giving some resistance, it should not be enough to stall that motor.

Can you take the belt off and drive the car all the way into your driveway ?
Did you hear any noises like clattering of chains before ? For timing to jump, there would have to be lots of slack.
A good shop can check the timing with a diagnostic tool where the signals from crank sensor aligns with the signals from the camshaft every 2 revolutions.
or
You can see one phaser through the oil fill hole in the valve cover, the other you can't. You'd have to take both covers off and the front cover. Then keep rotating the crankshaft up to something like 84 revolutions or a multiplier of count of teeth on cranks sprocket and phasers and see if they align on marks.
But that's a little bit of effort. At that point you could replace the guides and tensioners.

I don't think what I heard sounded like chains. But the engine always has made quite a bit of noise. Similar to how it sounds now.
I can probably take the belt off and get it in the driveway. If I can would that go against it being the timing? I have recently pulled off both valve covers and saw no slack, but only specifically checked bank 1 by pulling on the chain. I can probably pull off the valve cover of bank 2 drivers side and check for any slack in the chain.
When I was thinking about power steering, I was leaning away from the pulley. But more so thinking about the actual pump.
If the pump goes back it's known to die while making turns and make all kinds of noises. Also, while I was driving 30 minutes ago the entire time the power steering was going out. Like it was choppy. I had power steering for half a turn then none for the other half. If that makes sense.
Do you think it's possible to be TPS/Throttle body? It dies while idling low, and when braking and taking turns. If I press the gas while turning it won't stall.

 

[Thafisher]

I would say you are looking at an ignition system problem if what you did made the problem better even if it didnt stay for long.
When you are diagnosing stuff and you make a change and it helps thats where you need to keep looking. So the power steering is not the root cause of the stalling problem.

Ignition system meaning? What all classifies under the ignition system? Plugs, coils, etc?
It seemed to be hard to get it over 3k rpms. Or over 40mph.
Only reason I say power steering pump, not pulley, is because the pump being bad is known to cause stalling around turns, choppiness in power steering, etc. All of which is happening to me.
What do you think about TPS/Throttle body causing this?

 

[Rcflyer330]

Then yes the pump is bad and needs to be replaced if it keeps going out. Ignition system is plugs, and coils, and plug wires but you have coil on plugs you could also include the wires going to the coils.

 

[Thafisher]

Then yes the pump is bad and needs to be replaced if it keeps going out. Ignition system is plugs, and coils, and plug wires but you have coil on plugs you could also include the wires going to the coils.

Does that also seem like a reasonable cause for the stalling? I want to change the pump, but I'm really trying to stop changing parts and figure out what's causing the stalling. If you think so I will order it tonight.

 

[GeorgeH]

If the pump is bad (and you say you have had trouble with it for a while) then I don't know why you wouldn't change it.

The same for the coils and wires You say that you know there are at least 3 that have bad connections and you rigged them up a little and the symptoms are better. I don't know why you wouldn't replace them also. I would replace with a whole new set.

Even if it's not the immediate fix to this issue you would be replacing known bad parts, correct?

 

[Thafisher]

If the pump is bad (and you say you have had trouble with it for a while) then I don't know why you wouldn't change it.

The same for the coils and wires You say that you know there are at least 3 that have bad connections and you rigged them up a little and the symptoms are better. I don't know why you wouldn't replace them also. I would replace with a whole new set.

Even if it's not the immediate fix to this issue you would be replacing known bad parts, correct?

Yea that has been my mentality for the past while but now I'm at the point where I just need it to run, and stay running.
A few of the coils have always had broken connector pieces. The only thing it's not doing is holding the connector on properly. So with a few zip ties everything is held tightly in place. The coils are not cheap and for a set of 8 they're around 200$ at the nearest auto store. So it's not really efficient to just swap them all out a year later.
Also, the pump. I have been wanting to change it. I was looking for the slightest confirmation from another mind that it could possibly be that before I did. That's 80$ so it'd be nice to get a few other opinions first.
I haven't had trouble with it for a while. It just started a few weeks ago. The past few rides I was able to get out of it, the entire time the power steering was going out.
Long story short, limited funds at the moment.

 

[GeorgeH]

Yea that has been my mentality for the past while but now I'm at the point where I just need it to run, and stay running.
A few of the coils have always had broken connector pieces. The only thing it's not doing is holding the connector on properly. So with a few zip ties everything is held tightly in place. The coils are not cheap and for a set of 8 they're around 200$ at the nearest auto store. So it's not really efficient to just swap them all out a year later.
Also, the pump. I have been wanting to change it. I was looking for the slightest confirmation from another mind that it could possibly be that before I did. That's 80$ so it'd be nice to get a few other opinions first.
I haven't had trouble with it for a while. It just started a few weeks ago. The past few rides I was able to get out of it, the entire time the power steering was going out.
Long story short, limited funds at the moment.

I do understand that, but nonetheless, if you tightened up the coils with zipties and it improved to the point that you could take it for a drive it would seem that is more telling than anything with belts and pulleys that you have done to date.

 

[Thafisher]

I do understand that, but nonetheless, if you tightened up the coils with zipties and it improved to the point that you could take it for a drive it would seem that is more telling than anything with belts and pulleys that you have done to date.

Yea I do agree, but I just don't know how much tighter they're going to be with new connectors. The connectors will just slide off. Meaning the little clip inside is broke. With the zipties it holds it snug on there basically the same as the connector should be.
I couldn't imagine that new connectors/coils would fix this issue. I do believe that the 3 out of 8 coils I tightened up added enough power for the engine to stay running a bit better.
But there's still an issue lying somewhere. Causing me to stall out around turns, and right after starting the vehicle unless I press the gas.
The ignition coil codes have also went away.

 

[GeorgeH]

Yea I do agree, but I just don't know how much tighter they're going to be with new connectors. The connectors will just slide off. Meaning the little clip inside is broke. With the zipties it holds it snug on there basically the same as the connector should be.
I couldn't imagine that new connectors/coils would fix this issue. I do believe that the 3 out of 8 coils I tightened up added enough power for the engine to stay running a bit better.
But there's still an issue lying somewhere. Causing me to stall out around turns, and right after starting the vehicle unless I press the gas.
The ignition coil codes have also went away.

I think you are going to have to face the fact that you only have 3 options and all cost money:

1) Continue to throw parts at it.

2) Take it to a shop for a professional to diagnose.

3) Abandon it.

Personally at this point if it were me I'd take it to a shop while it was running. I think you've reached the end of what you can do with internet guidance. I hope you let us know what was the eventual resolution.

 

[Thafisher]

I think you are going to have to face the fact that you only have 3 options and all cost money:

1) Continue to throw parts at it.

2) Take it to a shop for a professional to diagnose.

3) Abandon it.

Personally at this point if it were me I'd take it to a shop while it was running. I think you've reached the end of what you can do with internet guidance. I hope you let us know what was the eventual resolution.

Well If I can knock it down to being a choice of 3 parts it could possibly be I would be more willing to start knocking off parts from the list.
I don't think I can make it to a shop, nor afford the costs at this time. Although If I could get it there I wouldn't mind paying for them to diagnose it.
It is staying running right now. Here's what I'm looking at right now. - Engine Stays Running/After Tightening Coils
It's so back and forth that I feel like it's gotta be something simple. The squealing noise is even gone.

 

[Thafisher]

So far right now it is running. Without me pressing the gas at all. It will stay running now that I tightened down the 3 coils. - VIDEO HERE
So far it has stalled on me when I turned on the AC and put it in gear. I tried to put as much of a load as possible on it. It stayed running with the AC but then stalled immediately when put in gear. Although now I can't get this to happen again. - VIDEO OF ME TRYING TO STALL IT WITH AC/LOAD
I don't really want to bring it out of the driveway though being the fact that I've had to push it home twice so far.
The squealing was loud a few minutes ago, now with it idling for about 10 minutes the squealing is gone. It's idling pretty nicely in my opinion. It just still will probably stall under too much load.
EDIT - Now actually I just went to put it in reverse and it stalled out. Now I currently have restarted it and it almost stalled again when put in reverse but it stayed running.

 

[Thafisher]

Now I've successfully managed to drive it for the past 20 minutes or so. It will start and stay running every time now.
The only issue that still exists is it's almost like I have to be very careful not to put too much of a load on the engine at once. (AC on, Lights on, In Gear, etc) During my 20 minute drive just now I was able to accelerate at a pretty normal rate. Actually seemed like I had quite a bit of power now. But during that drive it stalled on me once. I pulled into a gas station and put the truck in reverse where it died pretty much right after switching gears.
I was able to start it back up no problem and drive around some more.
I can also run it with the AC on, but I have to be careful once again not to overload it. (Letting vehicle idle steady before turning on AC)
When the AC is on and I switch to Reverse or Drive the RPMs drop very low and it almost, if not stalls.
My power steering is still choppy. Here's a video of what I mean. - Power Steering Choppiness (Every time you see the wheel slow down while turning, that's when it gets stiff)
I plan on changing the power steering pump if that is the only thing that could be causing this issue.
What would be causing it to stall intermittently, and under load at different times?

 

[GeorgeH]

Now I've successfully managed to drive it for the past 20 minutes or so. It will start and stay running every time now.
The only issue that still exists is it's almost like I have to be very careful not to put too much of a load on the engine at once. (AC on, Lights on, In Gear, etc) During my 20 minute drive just now I was able to accelerate at a pretty normal rate. Actually seemed like I had quite a bit of power now. But during that drive it stalled on me once. I pulled into a gas station and put the truck in reverse where it died pretty much right after switching gears.
I was able to start it back up no problem and drive around some more.
I can also run it with the AC on, but I have to be careful once again not to overload it. (Letting vehicle idle steady before turning on AC)
When the AC is on and I switch to Reverse or Drive the RPMs drop very low and it almost, if not stalls.
My power steering is still choppy. Here's a video of what I mean. - Power Steering Choppiness (Every time you see the wheel slow down while turning, that's when it gets stiff)
I plan on changing the power steering pump if that is the only thing that could be causing this issue.
What would be causing it to stall intermittently, and under load at different times?

Well, lets see: You messed around for days with the belt and had no success. You put zipties on the coils and now its enough better that you can drive it. Sounds like a coil issue to me.

 

[Thafisher]

Well, lets see: You messed around for days with the belt and had no success. You put zipties on the coils and now its enough better that you can drive it. Sounds like a coil issue to me.

Well, all the coils should be good. They're about a year old. Same with plugs.
How do you suggest diagnosing? Or are you just recommending I drop 200$ with high hopes?
I can pull them out and check for spark. But other than that I'm not too sure.
So you're thinking a few of them aren't firing or what?