Stuck after valve body repair S.O.S

[transman304]

I have just reread the post and nowhere unless i missed it have you ever taken a pressure reading. By unplugging the trans connector you are setting high line presure by taking the EPC out of the control of the computer. So yes you probably will see some difference in the way the transmission acts. As it is overcoming a low pressure problem. I think you may be chasing the wrong culprit. good luck and let us know what you find

 

[JK080]

I agree with Brad, unplugging the harness causes high line pressure and this can over come circuit leaks. If you take the pan back off check the EPC solenoid for a broken retainer bracket. Maybe the EPC is not fully seated, just a guess.

 

[transman304]

Just a thought, how did you align the plate to valve body. Without the pins or a very good eye you could have the valve body bolt catching the edge of the plate and raising it up and cause a pressure loss. How about the right bolts in the proper locations? Just putting ideas out there.

 

[TheJerm]

I have just reread the post and nowhere unless i missed it have you ever taken a pressure reading. By unplugging the trans connector you are setting high line presure by taking the EPC out of the control of the computer. So yes you probably will see some difference in the way the transmission acts. As it is overcoming a low pressure problem. I think you may be chasing the wrong culprit. good luck and let us know what you find

you are correct sir! I have not done a pressure test, I don't have a gauge, there is two feet of snow on the ground, and my explorer is dead from my stupidity. is it a special gauge? I have an old fuel pressure and vacuum gauge for cars pre fuel pump, I think it only goes up to like 50 psi. it has just a vacuum hose though. what kind of "end" does a trans gauge have? how much are they? can I get one at Advance auto?

Let me ask this again. with the car running, and in park or any other gear, all four shift solenoids have 12v to them. does that mean they are on? is this normal?
because in park only SS1 should be applied.
in Reverse only SS1 should be applied with the O/D button pushed, and SS4 would also be applied if O/D on.
The TCC has 12v going to it all the time.
The EPC has 10.6v going to it all the time.
no change when you shift through the gears.
how do you electrically test the DTRS?

thanks again for all the help guys. i am going to take it all off again this evening, and check the Solenoid bracket again. then pull it down check everything else again. i am also going to adjust the od and intermediate bands. i'll be sure and update.

 

[TheJerm]

I agree with Brad, unplugging the harness causes high line pressure and this can over come circuit leaks. If you take the pan back off check the EPC solenoid for a broken retainer bracket. Maybe the EPC is not fully seated, just a guess.

I've checked several times already. something has to be stuck in the VB.
one question: i have been very careful to not knock any balls or flaps, or pucks out of here. and i know i was successful. the last time i noticed a couple of the L valve things moved back and forth real easy but when i gave them a pull they didn't come out easy like the other ones. should they?

 

[TheJerm]

Just a thought, how did you align the plate to valve body. Without the pins or a very good eye you could have the valve body bolt catching the edge of the plate and raising it up and cause a pressure loss. How about the right bolts in the proper locations? Just putting ideas out there.

i used pins, i did them in the correct order, correct length, 7 times now. so i think it's new VB time.

 

[TheJerm]

I've checked several times already. something has to be stuck in the VB.
one question: i have been very careful to not knock any balls or flaps, or pucks out of here. and i know i was successful. the last time i noticed a couple of the L valve things moved back and forth real easy but when i gave them a pull they didn't come out easy like the other ones. should they?

ok so, high line pressure=reverse and 2nd kinda like limp mode, low line pressure i can get 1, 3, 4, 5 only. seems like that should whittle it down to something, but i am still at a loss. i'll keep trying and let you know. going to figure out how to get ahold of a pressure guage. thanks again.

 

[transman304]

Yes the solenoids will have voltage as the PCM applies ground to operate. The L pins will be loose and some tight. Have any of the L pins ever fallen out of place?

 

[TheJerm]

Yes the solenoids will have voltage as the PCM applies ground to operate. The L pins will be loose and some tight. Have any of the L pins ever fallen out of place?

i checked them to make sure they were moving back and forth, i did lift a couple of the easy ones up about an eighth of an inch an dropped them straight back down. i am just about to have this VB off again. i am going to pull it off and put the pan back on and push the exp. out of the garage and park it for a while. i am going to check it one last time before i order one from CVB. anything specifically i should check on while i am taking it out and once i get it out? thanks

 

[TheJerm]

i checked them to make sure they were moving back and forth, i did lift a couple of the easy ones up about an eighth of an inch an dropped them straight back down. i am just about to have this VB off again. i am going to pull it off and put the pan back on and push the exp. out of the garage and park it for a while. i am going to check it one last time before i order one from CVB. anything specifically i should check on while i am taking it out and once i get it out? thanks

Besides the obvious of making sure the L's are in the right holes and facing the right way, do i need to check their position relative to the internal valve? like maybe one is loose that should be tight, or maybe when i lifted one up it came down in the wrong place or the valve moved?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The transmission section has an excellent thread from Glacier991 on rebuilding a 5R55E valve body. A transmission gauge is calibrated to work in the range of 0 - 300 PSI.

 

[TheJerm]

The transmission section has an excellent thread from Glacier991 on rebuilding a 5R55E valve body. A transmission gauge is calibrated to work in the range of 0 - 300 PSI.

I'm reading it again right now in fact. pulled the VB back off, rushed a little and shot the little EPC relief across the garage. oh fun.

 

[TheJerm]

from sonnax

Loss of certain gears can occur due to issues in at least two other circuits. Loss of solenoid oil due to end plug leakage can cause no reverse, and loss or 3rd or 4th and can be repaired with 37947-13K. Leakage at the coast clutch valve can result in loss of 4th, 5th, or engine braking: you can eliminate leakage with 37947-33K.

 

[TheJerm]

the end plug for the forward engagement control valve is really loose in the bore. is that normal?

 

[JK080]

the end plug for the forward engagement control valve is really loose in the bore. is that normal?

Yes, it fits loose.

 

[TheJerm]

Yes, it fits loose.

i was reading this and they talk about a new gasketed end plug for it. so i just wanted to check. thanks for the quick reply.


http://transmissiontechnologies.com/epc-engagement-control-kit-4r44e-4r55e-5r44e-5r55e.aspx

 

[BrooklynBay]

Get the end plug kit with O rings from Sonnax . If you want to upgrade more parts, then get the master kit with everything in it called a zip kit. This page has a lot of part numbers: http://www.sonnax.com/searches?utf8=✓&query=5r55e&commit=Go

 

[TheJerm]

i was reading this and they talk about a new gasketed end plug for it. so i just wanted to check. thanks for the quick reply.


http://transmissiontechnologies.com/epc-engagement-control-kit-4r44e-4r55e-5r44e-5r55e.aspx

In the forward modulation valve bore (see Figure 1), looseness of the outboard end plug allows EPC to exhaust, preventing the valve from stroking and creating forward engagement problems.

 

[TheJerm]

Get the end plug kit with O rings from Sonnax . If you want to upgrade more parts, then get the master kit with everything in it called a zip kit. This page has a lot of part numbers: http://www.sonnax.com/searches?utf8=✓&query=5r55e&commit=Go

now that i launched the epc relief valve off the spring and into the abyss, and i have taken this down for the eighth time now lol, i think i'll be ordering a VB. enough is enough. quitting has never been an option of mine, but i only have one white rag left. so is central valve bodies the way to go? i actually have family in Claremore, OK. Garth Brooks' military fortified ranch is near there. we used to go drive around it. that was in my 91 exp. 270k miles, only problems: two batteries and an IAC valve, 4wd shift motor,and i once had to drive 200 miles home from Wisconsin with a leather dog leash as the driver's side radius arm bushing, but she made it. thanks for all of your help. i'll update as i go.

 

[TheJerm]

Yes, it fits loose.

so, going through the valve body again. The reverse modulator valve was getting caught up when I pushed it in and out, so I pulled it out and there very very tiny grit in the fluid around it. I cleaned it all out and lubed it, made sure the "L" was located correctly and it slides great now. I pulled out the thermostatic bypass valve, and whoa was it stuck. the big spring popped out and the rest was tough. when I got it out, the little pin is not sticking out of the brass valve. it either got stuck pushed in, or broke off. I cant tell. if it is stuck pushed in, does that accomplish the same thing as the sonnax mod or is it an issue? thanks