Truck Wont Start | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Truck Wont Start

Status
Not open for further replies.

audiodude332001

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 15, 2003
Messages
842
Reaction score
0
City, State
Eau Claire,WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 explorer 5.0
ok, so I came out of school today and my truck would not start. I turn the key and it just makes a single "click". The starter doesnt even spin. The battery is fine and all accessories work , and I tried replacing the starter but that didnt help at all. I tried running a wire straight from the battery to the starter and it still just clicks. I even tried bypassing the solenoid but still it just clicks. whats wrong?
Thanks,
Andy
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





same EXACT thing happened to me what I did is I grabbed a screw driver and the starter cylanoid on the fire wall by the bat has 2 screw things just short it out and it should fire (with the ignition on)
 






How do you know you battery is fine?


Assuming it is....... I would do a voltage drop test on your positive battery cable and load test your battery if you haven't and only checked voltage.

What was the gauge size of the wire you used to power the starter straight from the battery?
 






tommy96XLT
same EXACT thing happened to me what I did is I grabbed a screw driver and the starter cylanoid on the fire wall by the bat has 2 screw things just short it out and it should fire (with the ignition on)

I already tried that. I stuck a screwdriver in between the two screws to connect them, and it still makes that clicking noise but doesnt start.

i8u
How do you know you battery is fine?
Assuming it is....... I would do a voltage drop test on your positive battery cable and load test your battery if you haven't and only checked voltage.

How do I do a voltage drop test. Do I just probe the positive battery cable with the positive probe on a multimeter, and then put the negative probe on a metal ground? This is done with the ignition in the "on" position right? What should the voltage at the battery be?

What was the gauge size of the wire you used to power the starter straight from the battery?

I used an 8 guage jumper cable
 






Sounds like your battery..... Did you try jumping it?
 






yea. That was the first thing that I did, But the starter still wouldnt even spin.
 






After new starter and jumping relay, I think it still points toward battery. Batteries can still read 12v, and run accessories, buy still be bad, they just don't have enough amps to crank. And then even when you try to jump it, the battery can have a dead cell, or short preventing it from charging. Try to disconnect the terminals and connect the cables directly to the terminals. Remember to use heavy cables, 8 ga should do.

To check a voltage drop. Put a meter on the battery and then try to start it. See how much the voltage drops. Or turn on the head lights and try to start, see if the headlights dim.
 






That would be a voltage drop test on the battery. To test the positive cable it is the same idea. Put your voltmeter in parellel with the cable or wire being tested. Ignition on it should read battery voltage. When you turn the ignition to crank battery voltage should drop to zero. If it doesn't drop all of the voltage replace your cable.
 






Opps Never Mind.... I forgot you bypassed the positive cable with a jumper..


What is your battery voltage?

Go find another good battery with the same or higher cca and hook it up .
 






try putting a jumper cable directly to the starter and touching the battery termial but make sure it does not touch anything else. i still think it is your battery
 






Billy177 try putting a jumper cable directly to the starter and touching the battery termial but make sure it does not touch anything else. i still think it is your battery

I already tried putting a jumper cable directly from the battery to the starter, and still it just goes "click". Also, I tried 2 different batteries and it still doesnt work. Anyways, last night I got tired of screwing around trying to figure out what is wrong, and I had the truck towed to my mechanic, also because I need to get the truck back on the road as soon as possible because I drive it everyday and its my only vehicle.

Thanks for all the help everyone,
Andy
 






Andy!

Man, I have the exact same problem..... i try to start my truck and it just makes a click noise. i bought a new solenoid and a new battery. but it still does the exact same thing.... a single clicking noise. When you find out what it is can u get back to me man i would really appreciate it!
 






I went through the same things. Replaced the starter relay, and the battery. I would only happen occasionally. What I did....clean the terminals on the starter, never had a problem since. Alittle coke and a wire brush fixed it.

Later
CP :D
 






wilshon

I talked to the mechanic about 2 hours ago, and he said that there were some shorted wires by the battery and by the starter. They fixed it and said it cost about 50 bucks with labor.
 






ok, I got the truck back and talked to the mechanic and he said that all that was wrong was the positive battery cable was corroded and needed to be replaced.
The part cost about $2. It only cost me $47 with labor.
 






Just curious cus I do not know.....

on my 91 4.0l ohv explorer the positve battery cable actually had a smaller wire and connecter for a computer ground. Ford was the only one you could get the correct cable from. Just wondering if yours was different than mine.
 






Oh yeah and glad you got it fixed.:chug:
 






i8u Just curious cus I do not know..... on my 91 4.0l ohv explorer the positve battery cable actually had a smaller wire and connecter for a computer ground. Ford was the only one you could get the correct cable from. Just wondering if yours was different than mine.

Im not sure if they used a wire and connector that was made specifically for my truck, or if they just used a non-vehicle specific wire. Ill take a look at it tonight when i get home from school.
 






ok, so I just looked at the battery cable and all they did was cut off about 4" of the positive cable and put a new end on it. Hope this helps.
Later,
Andy
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





issue resolved closing topic
 






Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top