Solved TSB 02-7-6 4.0L SOHC Timing Chain Rattle

[loadie]

Holy crap, it's no fun at all!!!! Especially when you are missing the socket part of the tool. I had to use a 3/8 ratchet and socket, but it worked. No way of telling the torque I put on her, but she's tight for now. I'll get the socket and then re tighten the cam bolt.

I found the problem. Te right cam was 180 deg out. How do I know this, cause it finally sunk in when I had the right valve cover off and looked at the end of the cam. The cam slot was lower on the top when it should have been on the bottom, below the center line f the cam as the instructions say. I guess I didn't know what the hell they meant. I do now!!!!

Now I have her all quiet with the chains, but she is backfiring a bit and and idiling rough. I think it as to do with the new plus and wires. The wires were crap, so I'll take it to the shop and have them swap them out for better ones, also put different plus in as well. I couldn't get to cylinder 3 right side back cylinder. I have no way of getting in there to change the plus. I'll let the shop handle that one. Might also have a vacuum leak. But not sure, it's dark out now and can't tell.

Thanks for all the help guys! I won this one, I hope, well see in a few days or so!!!!!

Dan

 

[CDW6212R]

Pull the right inner fender loose to get to those right side wires and plugs. It takes five minutes to get the inner fender loose, but then you have plenty of room to work in. Good luck finishing up.

 

[foxy]

Loadie , Don, I take the wheels off as well as the mud cover to get to the plugs . I found the LHS to be the hardest because of all the extra pipes and such. I replaced my plugs with the HALO type They have a circular earth pin with a hole in the middle allowing the spark to penetrate deeper into the chamber for better ignition and burn they came from over there. Loadie it's great to hear you cracked it as I'm about to but not for a couple of months as you have said, Don, think and read think and read cheers guys thankyou Barry

 

[loadie]

I'm going to hook it up to my OBDII connector and laptop this afternoon, hopefully it'll tell something. I'll look at the fender issue. I have no problems at all with the left side, it's the right side last cylinder.

I'll post OBDII and replacement results later, hopefully today, but not gonna hold my breath.

Dan

 

[loadie]

OK here are the results. Only one error code PO171 which is lean on the right hand fuel barrel. It was solved easily by purchasing better spark plug cables.

Boys she back at 100% for now, until something else goes wrong.

Thanks to Don and Todd (off line) who help me from beginning to end. Without you 2 fellas, I would have been screwed and over $1000 poorer.


Grateful Dan

 

[CDW6212R]

Good for you, take it easy on it like it was a new engine. Change the oil again after about 1000 miles, try a synthetic oil.

 

[loadie]

That is the plan for sure!!!!!

Thanks again, now i's my turn to lend a hand when possible.

Dan

 

[slapboy]

Over eager....

Since I'm impatiant by nature, I couldn't wait for my OTC-kit to arrive and performed the timing chain replacement by hand (didn't even deterimine TDC)...I figured if I'm realy careful and replace one chain at a time, I wouldn't mess up the timing. After putting everything back together it's not starting (the engine is turning over, but not fireing up). So now my OTC-tools has arrived and I'm starting over. My question is how do I readjust/determine TDC so I can proceed with the rest of the timing?

Many thanks,
Chris

 

[CDW6212R]

If you really think that nothing moved than you may be fortunate enough to be able to retime it and be good. Cam timing has for decades been a critical requirement of a good engine. Pushrod engines are often built with timing chains with 2, 4, or so degrees of adjustment. That tiny amount greatly affects performance and economy.

With 360 degrees of potential, and 2-4 degrees being meaningful, I really doubt than anyone will ever time an infinite adjustment engine like the SOHC 4.0 properly, without the tools.

Assuming that you are close, and I'd call within 20 degrees close, you can follow the tool directions(and shop manual) for everything.

A shop manual is needed, it will include the process of finding TDC. The crank turns twice for every cycle, you must find the one point of those two which is the TDC. The other time is not TDC, the valves are open then, that is the exhaust cycle. You need to remove at least the #1 plug, and test for compression of the TDC cycle. It's in a shop manual, good luck.

 

[loadie]

Have fun with it. I took mine apart 4 different times to finally get it running correctly.

But I'm now an expert on it. On to repair the exhaust and the rear drivers side door handle. Then maybe some sand blasting and repainting.

 

[foxy]

guys , My fun is not too far away so don't you people go to far away. ok because I'm going to be asking a lot of questions Cheers Barry

 

[N8IWS]

Part Numbers aren't Working !

Guys,

I've tried to look up the parts for this repair and they don't exist. Is there a superceeded list somewhere for 2U3Z-60256AA and 7U3Z-6A257A? Those numbers are needed for me to take care of the problem.

Thanks,

 

[White98]

Page 4, post #77 has more info regarding part #'s. Re read the entire thread there may be other information that you are not seeing. I believe that I have the entire parts list that I used. I will see if I can find it.

 

[Rottie]

Since the cam tensioner issues seem to be a fairly common problem with the SOHC's, do you guys suggest any kind of preventive maintenance that might stop it from happening? Right now my '98 is as quiet as can be with 116,000 miles, and I'd like to keep it that way. Would synthetic oil or anything else like that help, or is it going to happen at some point no matter what I do?

 

[CDW6212R]

The pre 2002 plastic guides are a big question, which is why that was often part of Ford repairs early on. The cam chain tensioners have internal steel springs, which add to the oil pressure for tension.

Those small steel springs will become weaker over time, they should be replaced more often. Fortunately those are external and you don't need special tools to change them. Now that I have everything done in mine except the rear cassette, I hope to reach the 125-150k mark before doing anything about that rear cassette. Good luck,

 

[elvis8814]

I just finished replacing my timing chain tensioners and guides and after putting everything back together I am left with a wire that I can't find a home for. It originates behind the thermostat housing and is about 15 inches long. It is a two prong plug with a metal retaing clip just like the one that goes to the camshaft positioning sensor. It's the only other wire that I came across that had the metal retaining clip. Does anyone know where this goes??? Thanks

 

[CDW6212R]

Look right next to the crank balancer on the passenger side, there is also a connector that goes there with the steel "C" clip. Regards,

 

[elvis8814]

Thanks for the lightning fast reply. BINGO! That is the crank sensor connection. I was looking in the wrong area. You saved me some major headaches. Another great save! Three cheers for Don. Hip hip hurray!!!!

 

[S1L1K0N]

I just purchased an 01 Explorer 4x4 on Friday with 152,000 kms (~90,000 miles) on it, and at first I thought it was just pinging until I started reading these threads.

My question is, after reading the various threads on here, does the 2U3Z-6D256-CA kit contain everything required (the jackshaft chain tensioner and the two camshaft tensioners) or are the camshaft tensioners seperate kits? Also, am I correct in assuming that replacing the tensioners does not require re-timing/locking the camshafts with the special tool? From what I've read, it seems the tensioner(s) and the oil check valve were the real cause, so if I can do this myself without having to re-time the vehicle it may be something I consider.

With the exception of the rattle, the engine runs great, nice idle, lots of power, etc.

One more thing, TSB 04-15-04 is the most recent TSB on this issue, and does anybody know what the upper mileage or timeframe limit was on getting Ford to replace the defective parts? Many thanks in advance!

 

[CDW6212R]

Ford did two basic TSB's for the engine. They always did the front tensioner and check valve first, hoping that would fix the noise. The timing cassettes have to lose(wear) quite a bit of plastic guide material before it causes any noise.

Do the two tensioners, yes no special tools are required for those. If you have any kind of valve train noise afterwards, I would be worried. Good luck,