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Wiring UHF radio to regular 2016 Explorer

supeman_006

Member
Joined
June 1, 2011
Messages
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City, State
WV
Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Explorer
I have a 2016 ford explorer (non-police) model. We ordered a regular one for me (police detective) so I could have the console. So first thing I did was take the 3rd row seating out. None the less, Im trying to wire up a kenwood TK-840 (10amp fuse),a stream light flashlight charger (5 amp fuse), and an acc wire for a smart siren/light controller to a key-on battery source.

I have read on this forum that there is a plugin for the trailer brake under the dash above the parking brake... anyone know what type of amps this is rated at and is it a constant power source?

Im also wanting to run a cable from the sync compartment to the center console and wondering if anyone has taken the sides of the center console before
 



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I have a 2016 ford explorer (non-police) model. We ordered a regular one for me (police detective) so I could have the console. So first thing I did was take the 3rd row seating out. None the less, Im trying to wire up a kenwood TK-840 (10amp fuse),a stream light flashlight charger (5 amp fuse), and an acc wire for a smart siren/light controller to a key-on battery source.

I have read on this forum that there is a plugin for the trailer brake under the dash above the parking brake... anyone know what type of amps this is rated at and is it a constant power source?

Im also wanting to run a cable from the sync compartment to the center console and wondering if anyone has taken the sides of the center console before
There are a couple of members here that might be able to help but unfortunately I'm not one of them. What would help is if you added the 'trim' level (Base, XLT, etc) of your Ex to your profile so it always shows in the margin. Not sure if the specs in this regard are the same for all.

Peter
 






It's a base model ... I assume just because it has no fog lights and all the paperwork refers to it as just "explorer".
 






IMO if that's all you wanna power up, just run each power lead set to the battery. I mounted a sub fuse panel in my Havis console, but I have a bit more power needs.
 






I don't want to have the radio on, flashlight charging, or the smart siren light control to have power on it without the key on. If I run a lead to the battery everything would stay on and I would have battery drain. Fuse 46 goes to the trailer tow brake controller and is disigned to handle 30amps, just wondering if that's a attached to acc/on. I'm also not wanting to wire a single pole if I don't have to.
 






I also have a retail base model. I do not believe the trailer brake harness exists unless you have the trailer towing option. If that empty fuse space does have power, I doubt it would be accessory switched as you still need trailer brakes when the car is not running.

That being said, a relay is in order. Tap off some switched wire under the dash to power the relay throw.

The TK-840 is a low power RF deck, smart siren is 100w + any lighting you attach to it. The only clean way to do this and be reliable, is pull an independent circuit from the battery. Then use a relay in-between to switch the power.

When I did my upfit, I found nothing OEM that was useful for much else but relay switch power. The police option is the only way to get some usable wiring in the cab OEM.
 






I would run main power from the battery and use a trigger wire with a relay whether it be a manual switch or with the key. The ignition wire for police wiring comes from C2280C pin 30 which is a brown/yellow wire. This will be delayed accessory power. It is fused at 10 amps and runs a bunch of other stuff as well.

Another option is to use an emergency vehicle timer for power.
 






I think my siren controller is a federal signal as-422/6s fs, I found it in a closet in the PD in like 2005, and I'm installing it on my 4th cruser.... I do remember it having like 4 power wires for the main unit that I just hooked all together, then put an inline fuse and then hook that to the battery. Then I hook a (key-on) power to a switch box near the hand controller. Then front lights on 1, rear lights on 2 and just the speaker hooked up

Would mine have the C2280C connector ? And if so... Where would it be? Our police models have a harness that is rolled up where the console goes, we get them with the Whelen siren and we use aftermarket consoles
 






Also does the side of the console just snap off? This is where I'm putting everything. I also have a digital IBR radio but our guys just chatter on it and it's too big to mount inside the console.


image_zps6cnahqym.jpg
 






The retail version does not have the police accessory plug. That requires a PPV model. Yes, the sides just pop off. I removed my factory console and installed a Havis. My factory console is now wasting space in my garage.

The main siren power leads will need constant power unless you are OK with the emergency lights shutting off with the key. The only power to the siren that is switched is probably the control head back light. The federal signal as-422/6s fs is a remote mount siren that I have personally never installed, unfortunately I cant get more specific on its wiring setup.

Any idea where your going to mount the siren speaker? So far about the only place that I can find to put it, is in front of the wheel splash guards as Ford recommends and sells brackets for. If you find anyplace else to mount the speaker let me know, I am open to ideas, as I need to install a speaker or two myself.
 






Sorry I should have specified...C2280C is on the BCM which most people just refer to as the fuse box under the dash to the left of the steering column.
 






The retail version does not have the police accessory plug. That requires a PPV model. Yes, the sides just pop off. I removed my factory console and installed a Havis. My factory console is now wasting space in my garage.

The main siren power leads will need constant power unless you are OK with the emergency lights shutting off with the key. The only power to the siren that is switched is probably the control head back light. The federal signal as-422/6s fs is a remote mount siren that I have personally never installed, unfortunately I cant get more specific on its wiring setup.

Any idea where your going to mount the siren speaker? So far about the only place that I can find to put it, is in front of the wheel splash guards as Ford recommends and sells brackets for. If you find anyplace else to mount the speaker let me know, I am open to ideas, as I need to install a speaker or two myself.


I'm definitely ok with the lights not working when the key is off, I haven't figured out where I'm going to mount the speaker yet... I will post a pic or two when I figure it out. I like to put 4-6 lights on the front and at least 4 on the rear of our unmarked cars. Sounds like I should have just went with the police model then bought a console instead of the other way around
 






I'm definitely ok with the lights not working when the key is off, I haven't figured out where I'm going to mount the speaker yet... I will post a pic or two when I figure it out. I like to put 4-6 lights on the front and at least 4 on the rear of our unmarked cars. Sounds like I should have just went with the police model then bought a console instead of the other way around
Don't forget to put a couple of LED light heads in the rear side windows. Side visibility is important too. ;)

Sounds like you and I bought the same Explorer. I just finished the 3rd row seat delete and cargo floor install on mine (see the "sticky" thread), and am in the process of installing my dual band Yaesu. Hopefully we will both find enough space behind the console side panels to install a power distribution block to supply our power needs.
 






I'm definitely ok with the lights not working when the key is off, I haven't figured out where I'm going to mount the speaker yet... I will post a pic or two when I figure it out. I like to put 4-6 lights on the front and at least 4 on the rear of our unmarked cars. Sounds like I should have just went with the police model then bought a console instead of the other way around

I agree, the PPV model would have suited your needs a bit better, you can also get the PPV with the retail console installed. But you got the retail version so gotta make that work now. If you want to lose the factory console, Havis makes an aftermarket console for the retail version, but its not cheap depending on how you option it out. Mine with five face plates, one storage bin, and one filler panel was about $500. That did include two arm rests also.
 












Also use the Police Modifiers Guide on Ford Fleet Website.
 






This install doc will give you a pretty good idea how the factory console comes apart;

http://www.havis.com/data/1-Mountin...VS-1600-EXPL-1/C-VS-1600-EXPL-1_INST_3-16.pdf

Very good find!

We told the dealer we want a police model with regular console. They told us the regular explorer is the only way to get the console. Im just going to put in a relay and rob off the main power wire Ive got ran for my siren and jump off some off the back of the fuse panel to trigger the coil (86).
 






They lied... The PPV is available with the retail console, minus the floor shifter.

Another thing that will suck on the retail model in police service is the speed limiter. In theory it can be modified by the dealer, but considering its not pursuit rated I doubt they would agree to disable it.
 






I have a 2016 ford explorer (non-police) model. We ordered a regular one for me (police detective) so I could have the console. So first thing I did was take the 3rd row seating out. None the less, Im trying to wire up a kenwood TK-840 (10amp fuse),a stream light flashlight charger (5 amp fuse), and an acc wire for a smart siren/light controller to a key-on battery source.

I have read on this forum that there is a plugin for the trailer brake under the dash above the parking brake... anyone know what type of amps this is rated at and is it a constant power source?

Im also wanting to run a cable from the sync compartment to the center console and wondering if anyone has taken the sides of the center console before

I would highly recommend going through the firewall with the proper grommet or through an existing one and connect to the power source next to the fuse panel if there is one on that model. No question about the current available and you will not have any issues when transmitting due to low voltage possibilities. You should be able to find a good ground or make one close by the same area. I was a Motorola trained technician for 40 yrs. I like to avoid issues if possible. Will it work as you want, probably, would I do it? No.
 



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I don't want to have the radio on, flashlight charging, or the smart siren light control to have power on it without the key on. If I run a lead to the battery everything would stay on and I would have battery drain. Fuse 46 goes to the trailer tow brake controller and is disigned to handle 30amps, just wondering if that's a attached to acc/on. I'm also not wanting to wire a single pole if I don't have to.

The way to handle that is to install a relay in the engine compartment or buy a timer that can be set to shut things down. The timer is wired to an ignition sense wire and will not shut off with the ignition on,

https://www.tessco.com/products/searchItems.do?validations=nn|searchText&searchType=%2FcommonSearch&searchUsing=ALL&searchText=timer
 






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