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The Idle Air Compensator (IAC) Valve

Glacier991

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1992 XLT
IDLE AIR CONTROL (COMPENSATOR) VALVE

This one is actually pretty easy to understand. The idea behind this is that by bleeding in what amounts to a vacuum leak into the intake, you can adjust the idle speed. (To experiment try pulling a vacuum line and covering the end with your finger… gently vary the leakage and watch and listen to the engine speed vary in response. Why? well sometimes we want a little more idle speed... like when the Air Conditioning kicks on, maybe in cold conditions, etc....

That is what this little valve does. A solenoid pulls in a pintle valve to vary the leak. Here is a diagram of a typical IAC valve

{FORD DIAGRAM GOES HERE}

Here is a photograph of that same IAC (it happens to be from a 1993 Mercury Sable, but for all purposes it is the same as the one in our Explorers….they vary only slightly in appearance and are the same in operation...sorry about the fuzzy pic)

DSCN63801.jpg



The valve CAN get “crudded up” and with the non-plastic models you CAN clean them. One thing to remember is to remove the little plastic vent cap…if the felt filter in it gets wet with cleaner you will need to dry it out overnight or the IAC won’t work properly.

DSCN6382.jpg



When you remove that little cap, BE VERY CAREFUL. Break it and you got a new IAC on your shopping list. So ... do not just pry on the outside edges of the big cap... Pry on the inner edge where it goes onto the tube. I found that something V shaped worked well – this was a door panel removing tool but worked like a champ…

DSCN6383.jpg


I used brake cleaner and thoroughly cleaned the guts of this little baby…

DSCN6381.jpg


dried it with a hair dryer and reinstalled.



When they are bad sometimes you will hear a fog horn or train whistle sound… sometimes your idle will be all screwed up. (I'll try and add more detail to this thread as time goes on - just wanted to get it up so I can fine tune it)
 



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You've been goin nuts with the pictures and posts lately. Definatly keep it up! Good job yet again man :)
 






Glacier991 said:
When they are bad sometimes you will hear a fog horn or train whistle sound… sometimes your idle will be all screwed up.

Or as we here in So Cal call it, "the Ghost of Calico" he likes to follow us on trails sometimes :rolleyes: I should really get it fixed, but it only happens when the truck gets hot. (heavy traffic, hot days, long slow trails)

Good info though :thumbsup: Also can this cause a lean bank code thrown?
 






Mine used to do that, till i took off the lil black cap and lost it.. now it doesnt.. but its probably bad for the engine :x
 






They certainly can lean out a mixture, but the leaning would not likely be relegated to one bank only. More often than not a bank lean code is a leaking intake gasket or O ring.
 






IAC is also known as an "Air Bypass Valve". I scored one on eBay for my Eddie and that's also how it's described on the box. (Aftermarket manufacturer is "Wells").

img1195365.jpg
 






Great information Chris. I don't know how I missed this thread. I believe mine is acting up cause I'm getting a less than desired idle after warm up. I also hear a little vaccum leak sound while it's idling this way. Again, great information! :thumbsup:

-Drew
 






There are 3 different types of IACs that ford used (I know this is a fact for first gens but unsure of others) one of them is servicable, the others are not.
The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is used to control engine idle speed and is operated by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Three types of IAC valves are released for use (Figures 1, 2 and 3):

l Hitachi (Figure 1) can be identified by a silver metal housing. It can be cleaned. (Refer to Service Manual).

l Hitachi (Figure 2) can be identified by an external vent/filter. Do not use cleaning solvent on this valve; to service this valve, replace it.

l Nippondenso (Figure 3) can be identified by a black plastic housing. Do not use cleaning solvent on this valve. To service this valve, replace it.

The valve allows air to bypass the throttle plates and controls:

l Cold engine fast idle

l No touch start

l Dashpot

l Over temperature idle boost

l Engine idle load correction
 












The first valve in the picture above has no filter on its side, as well as the last valve. I don't know why the second type is designed to use a filter. If the mounting flange, and electrical connector are the same on all models, why can't they be interchanged (or could they)?
 






BrooklynBay said:
The first valve in the picture above has no filter on its side, as well as the last valve. I don't know why the second type is designed to use a filter. If the mounting flange, and electrical connector are the same on all models, why can't they be interchanged (or could they)?


I'm just speculating, but I think the vent will allow the IAC to respond more rapidly because it won't build up pressure behind the pintle. Of course the vent also allows it to do this:

Woooooo! :p
 






Oh please, please, please....

IDLE AIR CONTROL (COMPENSATOR) VALVE


When they are bad sometimes you will hear a fog horn or train whistle sound… sometimes your idle will be all screwed up.


Was searching on 'fast idle when hot' issue, and stumbled across this post AND the comment about the whistle. I've been trying to find that noise for two summers, but seldom in situation to try to find it when I hear it. Picked up valve a few minutes ago ($110.00 here????), and keeping fingers crossed that both birds are killed with same stone.

Thanks for detailed posts....
 






Would a dirty IAC cause the following and would cleaning it correct the problem? I have the metal one that can be cleaned, and it has been suggested to me that cleaning it might solve the problem.

The Problem:
My 94 EX (166K mi) always has about twenty seconds of fast idle upon starting cold or hot here in Florida. Then, after the twenty or so seconds fast idle, over a period of about five seconds it slows down to a nice idle speed for engaging the automatic transmission. I mention Florida to exclude really cold starting as in the northern states and, although this isn't really a serious problem, it is bothersome and annoying to always wait out the idle-down period before engaging the auto trans. I just don't like to pull it into drive at the higher idle speeds with the lurch and stress to the trans. Again, it's the same upon all starting, hot or cold. Also, faster or slower, the idle performance is very, very smooth and I'm pleased with that aspect.
 












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