How to: - Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Ok so a little update. I replaced the switch on the dash since my fist broke the first one. And yes I felt better after. I also picked up a used shift motor for a song and dance. First thing I did was re-read the rebuild thread here and opened it up. This thing was mint. Hell the little rubber thing was still in great shape. I rotated it anyways just to carefull.

Ok put it all back and cycled through all the postions worked great. Installed it all and retested it. Worked great. That was just before Christmas. Snow storm started and I "thought" I was perpared.

Ya NO...friggen thing will not shift into 4wd now. The control module in the back clicks and makes a pile of noises. I think that's a good thing? I can here the motor moving yet still no 4wd. It did actually engage once and stupid me hit the button again and never got any action since.

This thing has frustrated the hell out of me. I even read the thread about converting them to manuals. However that didn't lead toward a fesible option at this time.

I do have a question about the control module though. If you by pass it when you install an after market deck would that not eliminate a potential failed part?

Any other suggestions?
 



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More strange happenings with my mysterious 4X4 problem.

First off she managed to get the 4X4 to engage which was good since the roads where brutal the last few days. So the idea was just leave it until I have time to look at it again.

So today I'm off I decided to driver her to work so that I could piss around with the X. Off course we left the house and the 4wd was engaged. Got out on the highway and the road conditions where good so 4wd wasn't needed. I pushed the button and it turns off. Hit it again...nothing. I try several random button pushes on the way there and nothing.

Drop her off and heading home I hit the button...holy **** it work. So I turn it off and try again. Still working:thumbsup: So I made several random button pushes on the way home and it work...on the highway. A soon as I slowed down or came to a stop nothing happened.

As I sit making my way home through the city I came up with a theory. It must be binding up or something along that line. I think that when the truck get warm and there is slack in the drive line it will shift. So I'm going to test this theory out today by loosening the bolts realigning the motor and give it a shot.

I'll post the results when I'm done.
 






More strange happenings with my mysterious 4X4 problem.

First off she managed to get the 4X4 to engage which was good since the roads where brutal the last few days. So the idea was just leave it until I have time to look at it again.

So today I'm off I decided to driver her to work so that I could piss around with the X. Off course we left the house and the 4wd was engaged. Got out on the highway and the road conditions where good so 4wd wasn't needed. I pushed the button and it turns off. Hit it again...nothing. I try several random button pushes on the way there and nothing.

Drop her off and heading home I hit the button...holy **** it work. So I turn it off and try again. Still working:thumbsup: So I made several random button pushes on the way home and it work...on the highway. A soon as I slowed down or came to a stop nothing happened.

As I sit making my way home through the city I came up with a theory. It must be binding up or something along that line. I think that when the truck get warm and there is slack in the drive line it will shift. So I'm going to test this theory out today by loosening the bolts realigning the motor and give it a shot.

I'll post the results when I'm done.

The relays clicking in the back indicate the 4x4 computer has received input from the button press and have tried to engage 4x4 but failed. The failure could be related to the geared position sensor being "lost" in which case the computer would have no idea which position the T-case is in and therefore do nothing.. You could try gently taping the shiftmotor to jar the sensor into making better contact.

It could also be related to the shift motor having a hard time moving the shift selector.. If this is the case test have a helper push 4x4 while you feel the shift motor to see if it is working. If you cannot feel the motor then test the wire(s) going to the motor for 12v. If the motor is getting 12v for several seconds it means the geared sensor is not lost but the motor is too weak to move the selector all the way to the 4H position). When was the last time you replaced the T-case fluid?
 






I have to give a big thanks to this site for my 96 Limited seems to be working great now. I found this thread through a search and after reading it I was able to complete my issue with my Transfer motor. I had already torn it apart, cleaned and reinstalled it. I then tried it out to see if it worked and it seemed to, so I thought well I saved a bunch of money not taking it to the dealer. I left my wife have it, since it is the car she drives, and it snowed the next day. I told her to use the 4WD Auto just to get some use and when she did the lights started flashing again. I searched for a solution, found this thread and did some reading. I did not even think to look at the stop closely on the back of the gear for mine was in one piece. I also saw the comment about disconnecting the battery to reset the module. I thought this is gonna suck if I have to crawl back under there to remove the gear and see the stop is deformed. I thought first I am going to try the battery reset and damn if that did not straighten everything out!!:D I went out and tested it in 4WD high and Low in a fairly covered parking lot and so far so good. I will keep this site in my favorites for future reference and I am glad I found it. Thanks again for the info and this site rocks!! :thumbsup: :)
 






With help of this thread Im back to having 4wd again woohoo this write up is the best. I do have a suggestion however when I was installing the brushes in the motor. I was having trouble holding them in and putting the rotor in at the same time. I took 2 small zip ties and used those to hold the brushes in till I got the rotor in. Then I used my side cutters and cut the ties off and pulled them out. It took a couple of extra minutes but was alot easier than trying to chase a wayward spring around the shop floor.
 






...I do have a suggestion however when I was installing the brushes in the motor. I was having trouble holding them in and putting the rotor in at the same time. I took 2 small zip ties and used those to hold the brushes in till I got the rotor in. Then I used my side cutters and cut the ties off and pulled them out. It took a couple of extra minutes but was alot easier than trying to chase a wayward spring around the shop floor.

Thanks for the suggestion.. it is notable and will help others attempting this fix. When attempting to re-install my armature it was slightly tricky as you needed three hands to do it.. I used a couple of plastic hobby spring clamps as seen in the left picture below. These were strong enough to hold the brushes, but small enough so the armature and housing could be installed.

Shift_Motor_Brush_holders.jpg
WORK003.jpg
 






Great thread all - much appreciated.

I'm in the middle of working on my shift motor and its off the t-case and I've removed the 3 torx screws but am a bit stumped on how to get out the large gear to check the bushing. Its inside the housing so someone's mention of a gear puller won't work...seems I need to press it out from the shaft on the other side? Wonder if someone could explain what they did on this step of the job.
 






NO PULLER :nono: it will damage the gear..
The geared sensor just sits in the housing on top of the worm gear.. you should be able to rotate/wiggle it back and forth and pull it off..
 






Thanks. Used a dull bit in my drill press to just press it out from the shaft side - didn't take much force at all.

The bushing was smashed as typical - replaced it with a rubber one that fit and reassembled/reatached the shift motor. 4x4 is back working again - hurray and again thanks to all the posters for this helpful thread.
 






The relays clicking in the back indicate the 4x4 computer has received input from the button press and have tried to engage 4x4 but failed. The failure could be related to the geared position sensor being "lost" in which case the computer would have no idea which position the T-case is in and therefore do nothing.. You could try gently taping the shiftmotor to jar the sensor into making better contact.

It could also be related to the shift motor having a hard time moving the shift selector.. If this is the case test have a helper push 4x4 while you feel the shift motor to see if it is working. If you cannot feel the motor then test the wire(s) going to the motor for 12v. If the motor is getting 12v for several seconds it means the geared sensor is not lost but the motor is too weak to move the selector all the way to the 4H position). When was the last time you replaced the T-case fluid?

The T-case fluid was changed when Installed the tranny...back in Nov.
I haven't had time to do any testing. I'll do it tomorrow and post back. I believe that you're on the right track about the motor not being strong enough. The outside temp has warmed up a lot in the last few days (-20c to +1c). The motor shifts quite well know when it's warm. Perhaps it's binding or perhaps the grease is freezing?
 






I have a 93 Explorer with the typical 4x4 engagement problem.

Have removed the motor assembly from the transfer case so far.

Ready to do the fix, but found that the sensor is covered with oily black metal filings.

What is the purpose of the sensor and how significant is it to have filings on this sensor. Seems like it is magnetic.

Is this a speed sensor? Why required when there is a cable going to the speedometer. Is the speed sensor for the computer?

thanks for any info
 






I have a 93 Explorer with the typical 4x4 engagement problem.

Have removed the motor assembly from the transfer case so far.

Ready to do the fix, but found that the sensor is covered with oily black metal filings.

What is the purpose of the sensor and how significant is it to have filings on this sensor. Seems like it is magnetic.

Is this a speed sensor? Why required when there is a cable going to the speedometer. Is the speed sensor for the computer?

thanks for any info
I assume you're talking about the shift motor speed sensor located in the following pic... The sensor is magnetic and you can clean off the metal filings and re-install. Did you read the Shift motor rebuild thread?

27133Tcase20B.jpg
 






Yes, I have read the thread and feel pretty confident to tackle the job this morning in the comfort of my garage.

Thanks for the response about the sensor, probably should flush the transfer case oil also.

thanks
 






slarsen47: Yep, clean that tranfer case out, I change all those fuids every few years, it's very low cost insurance ! Do your axles too ! Hope all went well, sounds like you have it in good hand, and you can't get any better than having Glacier looking over your shoulder !!
Shamal
 






It is done and it is working, did not cost anything cause I had a small piece of hose that fit perfect when cut to length.

Thanks to the forum host and the forum contributors. This is a great thread and I couldn't have done it without all the nice pictures and explanations.

Let me relay my very positive experience.

Drive Explorer up on a couple of 2x10 pieces of lumber under the drivers side wheels. Nice to work on higher vehicles, don't need to lift.

I started by unbolting the damper weight. Pulled the plug. Unbolted the two bolts holding the bracket that holds the other end of the wire plug. Made a little hook out of heavy duty paperclip and pulled the little red dealy in the plug. Then pulled the brown wire out of the plug while holding a small screwdriver against the plastic clip that helps retain the end of the brown wire. Two more bolts and the motor/gear assembly is ready to come off. Pull the sensor out with slight twisting motion. Pry carefully on the motor case and the unit is loose.

So now you have it in your hands and you can go work in a warm place on a bench. I did not disassemble the motor. Marked the cover for the gear housing to make sure it went back in exactly the same position. Just etched/scratched a line. Take note of the position of the gear before punching it out. Used a punch to pop the gear out. Did not take much, just a sharp tap. The three pieces of broken plastic were there. Installed a rubber tube and put the gear back in place paying attention to which side of the stop. Put the cover back on. I did not have any problem with the screws, they came out easily, must live in a less corrosive climate.

Tested the motor and watched the end of the gear turn. Just put the twelve volts to the yellow and orange leads going to the motor then reverse leads to change direction. Do not hold leads on for long, just enough to cycle it once each direction and try to leave it in the 2wd position near the stop.

So put the unit back in position, had to fiddle a little bit to engage where it goes into the transfer case. Put the sensor back in. Put the brown wire back in the plug and put the little red dealy back. Position the bracket and plug and put the two bolts in and tighten. Tighten the other two bolts. Bolt the damper back in place. Plug in the plug end and you are ready to go.

I would bet most problems are due to the little plastic dealy that breaks. Why did ford not just use a slightly larger steel stud for the stop. I don't think it is going to wear the case away where it stops. Disassemble the gear case first and replace with rubber or vinyl bumper. Then test the motor.

If the motor is working fine, why disassemble it.

Anyway thanks for the help.

Next is that nasty little ABS light on the dash!
 






The T-case fluid was changed when Installed the tranny...back in Nov.
I haven't had time to do any testing. I'll do it tomorrow and post back. I believe that you're on the right track about the motor not being strong enough. The outside temp has warmed up a lot in the last few days (-20c to +1c). The motor shifts quite well know when it's warm. Perhaps it's binding or perhaps the grease is freezing?

:chug: :biggthump Well as I suspected it was binding up a little and not working.
Fixed and it and it works great now.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks a million to the people that posted and provide feedback, also to the writer of this tech page.:notworthy :D :thumbsup:
 






im a newbie, just picked up a 93 xlt 2 weeks ago for $900.. 4x4 doesnt work, so i looked it up and found this site. this is really great info, thank you, i will attempt the rebuild tomorrow.
 






ok i did all that! took it apart replaced rubber bushing cleaned the copper where the brushes contact and reasambled it. worked great! untell it snowed now it is stuck in 4/4 mode wont go in to 4 low or 2 hi....
any ideas?
help?
 






How often do you use 4x4? If you don't use it regularly (once a month) the shift motor can have problems trying to move the selector shaft... Using it once a month helps ensure everything is moving etc.. Try gently tapping on the shift motor (the motor part) to help it into making better contact.. When you went into 4H did you leave it there overnight, or did you try to take it out when you were still driving but didn't need 4H anymore..

When was the last time you changed the T-Case fluid?
 



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yes i left it over night the ground was still covered in snow and the transfercase fluid is less than 2 monthes old i had done the fix less than 2 weeks prior and had turned it on several times
 






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